Can,t say about the atmosphere in your refrigerator but I have a bottle I've used from several times and stored in the refrigerator and it's been about a year. Took some out last week and it was still fine.
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You can contact Bill Stevens directly by E mail and he will be glad to help you.
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Marty, sounds like you have a Japanese made rod. These rods were made either during or just after the occupation and lots of them were brought back or imported. The handles on some of them were reversable and they usually came in a nice wooden box with extra tips and coud break down into 2-3 types of rods depending on how you wanted to put the sections together. I've seen lots of them for sale on
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If I recall right, when we ferruled fiberglas rod we used a piece of old solid fiberglass rod as a spigot. Get the correct taper to match your rod blank and push it through your blank leaving about 1-2 inches inside, then glue it in place. Fit the next piece of blank over it and trim so you have 1-2 inches inside it. You should have the tip end of the spigot a little on the tight side for a fit.
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Still got my first one, built over 30 yrs. ago, fiberglass 9 ft spin rod on a salmon blank. This was before graphite became popular. Like DR I keep it put up but every now and then I bring it out just to show how I started.
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Jay, try an all metallic wrap using royal blue and silver or gold trims and matching eyes in titanium with blue rings. or go with eyes to match the trim colors.
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Bob, I've built on 2 of them. The first was a 9 ft 7 wt and the second was a 7 ft 4/5 wt. I've been very pleased with both rods but i've watched the prices rise over the years. I built both of these 10 yrs ago. The 9 footer has handled a 22 lb carp and had plenty of power. The medium actions are different than bamboo but also different from graphites, very hard to explain. If you try one you will
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Your e mail is hidden, shoot me an e mail and I'll see if I can help you.
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Ron, they have a great site and you can contact them through it. I have built on 2 of their blanks and am pleased with the end results, however they do have a very different action and feeel. They kind of grow on you, they are similar to bamboo but retain the graphite feel also.
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James, I used an old rod that had the same taper as my new blank and cut it to size to build my spinning handle on. By doing it that way I could still use the graphite ferrule for both handles. I believe I posted a picture of this rod in my gallery. I have used a metal ferrule for a reversable handle on a bamboo rod and I posted that picture there too.
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James, I built one similar to what you are doing, however I used the entire rod for the fly rod then for the spinning rod I built a separate handle to match the ferrule of the second rod section, That way you could drop the butt section with the fly reel seat on it and install the spinning reel seat into the 2nd section. As this was a 4 piece rod the spinning rod only added about a foot more in
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Jay, I have solved the same problem with thread or a ring of gudebrods butt winding wrap applied with super glue and covered with a coat of finishing epoxy.
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Terry, part of the solution rests with the moisture content of the wood used. If you cut your own wood, age it in a dry place or use a kiln. Commercial woods are usually kiln dried. The second part of the solution is to seal the wood from moisture, you've been given some good advise here. As for myself I usually use hand rubbed coats of tru oil or in the case of very oily type woods such as coca
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Try and keep it simple, common food coloring that you can buy in the grocery store should work. I know it does with epoxy as I have used it for years.
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I build them on 11 ft. Steelhead/salmon blanks. I get IM6 blanks from a supplier who is not a sponser here. If anyone is interested you can e mail me. I tried using B&M stripped out blanks, they are heavy but do work. When I lived in Mississippi the combination of a sensitive tip and a powerful butt was needed to fish jigs in heavy cover. I believe I also have a picture of one posted in my ga
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Steve, after ordering several of your reel seat stabilizing woods I would concur on the sizes suggested. I have a favorite if you could obtain it and that is california buckeye.
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I am building a fly rod for a friend who just made Chief Master Sargent in the Air Force. It will be an Air Force themed rod. Any sources for Air Force decals are appreciated.
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Tim, use the thread method, works like a charm
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Billy, when I started to shoe horses I was taught, if the customer wanted the shoe nailed on upside down and backwards I should do it but first I should explain to them what would happen and when the horse came back crippled don't blame me. If he still wanted to go ahead then nail it upside down and backwards.
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I'll add my 2 cents to this, my favorite wood for handles is red cedar. It's a very light weight wood with a beautiful grain and color. It's very easy to lathe, however it is very brittle and will shatter if you're not careful. I usually finish with tru oil or permagloss. However after speaking with Mark yesterday I'm going to try to finish some with CA glue.
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do your cross wrap over a reddish brown underwrap
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Take a look at metallic scarlet red.
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Herb, just reach up the blank where you would normally grasp the line to cast and put your stripper 2-3 inches in front of there then add another stripper guide 4 inches in front of the first stripper, this is your line tamer and it will reduce line slap and increase your distance. The line tamer may not be neccessary on rods less than 4 wt or on very short rods. Put your next guide at normal dis
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I've used it for a few projects, it's good for a touchup or quick repair, however the durability over time is not so good.
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Billy, I have found 9 inches from the rear of the reel seat to be about tbe best. Most people I measure for butt length will fit this measurement. Figure the butt will touch your forearm about 2-3 inche from your elbow.
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Neil, get a motor off an old bar b que rotisserie. Been using one for over 25 yrs. no problems, they are meant to run for long periods of time.
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Just published pictures of a wading staff that I made. Don't know if this fits the catagory for Billy's rod challenge but it was something new that I've never done before. If so consider it my entry.
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Ok all you musky lovers, I need some help. I've built a couple of musky rods but this time I have a request where I need help. I have a request for a 5 to 5 1/2 ft. heavy musky rod for ripping plugs. He doesn't want a spiral wrap but I plan to use bass techniques of split grip and no fore grip with an exposed reel seat. He wants a plain cork grip. Will use top grade titanium guides, probably a do
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I have done several dozens using a citrus stripper. The key word here is "citrus", any other type could cause damage to the blank. You can purchase it at most building supply stores such as Home Depot or Lowes. The other advantage is that this is a very safe stripper to use, no fumes and no special clothing and can be safely used in most enclosed spaces such as a room or basement. It gi
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Netcraft has a dandy blank that is their brand. It's a 6 1/2 ft spinning blank and makes into a 5 - 6 wt fly rod. Check out their site on the left of this page.
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