You should be ok with the guide on the sleeve Mike. The only drawback is that the sleeve raises the guide and makes the repair a bit more noticible. There should be no problem with stress if the sleeve is of the right material and of adequate length to make the repair. I guess I'm saying if the repair is good, it really won't matter if the guide is on, above or below.
Forum: rodboard

Rainshadow IST 1025 or 1026 in an 8 1/2' 2 piece, or the 1085, 1086 at 9' will be perfect. Lamiglas has a bunch of great salmon and steelhead blanks as well. You can spiral wrap any blank you chose, but guide size is going to depend on the blank and reel you use. I've never had any reason to use bigger than a 16 and most often stick with a 12 as a butt guide, then on out with 10, maybe an
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Let me get back to what Steve asked for...an opinion on the sales pitch of the builder. I have no problem demonstrating the advantages of the spiral wrap on a downrigger rod, a plug rod for river fishing, or a heavy rod for halibut or bottom fish. Just using it once makes a believer out of most fishermen. It takes more effort to convince someone to switch from a conventional setup on an ordina
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Well you could just repair the break and have a perfectly good rod again if you still have the broken off piece. That's not a difficult repair. If you go that route, and need help with it, just ask. If you want to make it a shorter rod with a completly different action, go ahead. Tom told you how to get the epoxy off. When it's as clean as you can get it, run a Scotchbrite pad up and down
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And if you can't wait for that issue, or don't have it, check the downrigger line from Rainshadow/Forecast, greta blanks and good pricing.
Forum: rodboard

Welcome......you've come to the right place to learn. Your questions answered: 1. You can't sneak it in, she is the only one allowed to sneak purchases into the house. You can surprise her with a custom built rod and if she isn't into fishing, be very dissappointed and tell her it won't go to waste, you'll find a use for it and will think of her every time you use it. 2. Doc has it, lots
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One of the beauties of this site is the chance to learn from people who really know the what why's and how's. I have learned more from reading Ralph O'Quinns information on adhesives and epoxys than I'll ever use. Everybody has their own ways of accomplishing the rodbuilding tasks and most work well. But if it takes no additional time or effort to do the job in the best manner, why not do it?
Forum: rodboard

Or just wet the wrap with alcohol, not shiny, but you'll see what the color will be.
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The thread may be moving because of the slickness of the blank. Just wrapping up and down won't hold them firmly enough, the blanks taper will allow them to slide. You might try a turn ot two of double sided tape at each end of the wrap. Depending on how complex the wrap will be, you can just continue to add another turn as your layers build up. The other advice is good, try bands of thread
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If it's not a lot lower you could just leave it alone. Another coat may help, but you didn't say how many you have on now. On the next rod, you might try not putting any finish on the space between the guide feet (unless you've underwrapped them), just cover the thread wraps.
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I just finished a repair using the foam brush, cut a vee, dipped it in a bit of Permagloss and ran it up the length of the rod. Waited till that coat dried and did another. It was easy, fast and looked great. No problem putting it over the epoxy either. And gosh Billy, if it works over a flaw that only I can see, I'll use it instead of another coat of finish any time. Too fast and easy
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And if you are using some sort of spatula for your application, a little extra pressure on each side of the guide foot will force finish through the threads. At times a little bubble of air can be seen as it's forced out of the tunnel.
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But if you really, really want suggested guide spacings, just call Batson's and they'll give them to you.
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It's an easy fix. If there is any doubt about what Putter said twice, I'll say it again......READ THE LIBRARY ARTICLE.
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It's actually easier to apply when the blank is turning faster. I use a Power Wrapper with a foot control and find that I have less control as my foot eases up on the pedal. I'm not sure how many RPM's it turns at tops, but I can fling epoxy on the wall!!
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Mo: Now we'll really confuse you......are you sure you want to go with the "usual sizes" for the spinning guides???? As long as you take the extra step to prep the guides, and, yes, you can do it with just a file, why not go all the way and set it up using the Concept system??
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Your rod builder is out of touch. There is no doubt that the spiral wrap, and that includes ALL methods of getting the line around, works and works well. It casts as well and fights fish better than conventional guides on top. I'd urge you to check out TackleWorks ( link at top of page) and find a builder that will work with you. Or do yourself a real favor and build one yourself, you'll f
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I have a CPW as well, but I sure see alot of the Batson Enterprise and Pac Bay's. Just depends on your budget.
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Warm it up with a hair dryer, should come off with a fingernail.
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And don't forget your local sewing and knitting shop! Knitting needles work too!!. If you want to do the Forhan locking wrap, pick up a small darning dohickey with the little hook at one end. Oh...and pattern marking white pencils....thread spool racks.....Sulky metalics.....
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I think you have the right idea. Clean the old epoxy, buff with grey scotchbrite (no need to score anything), lightly sand the insert . Dry fit the parts to ensure a good fit and put it together with Rod Bond.
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Wow! And me being a lite line fanatic! Just thinking about throwing almost a pound of weight makes me want to sleep in! But the Rainshadow 1509 is rated to 12oz. without cutting anything.
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Just curious, why would you want to trim the tip at all? It's rated for 4-10 oz.
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Check Rainshadow. Don't know if they have the RX8+ in stock yet, but you can't go wrong with that or the RX7+. The Forecast components are excellent quality as well. Most of the sponsors will provide you with blanks and materials to fit your budget and meet your needs. Not sure where you'll get the reel seat. For a single decal, go to the Decal Connection (a sponsor), great service and pr
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Ya learn something every day......my spine, after many years and several surgeries, leans forward in the morning, that's no problem after a few cups of coffee, cause it starts spiraling right away. It's the afternoon part when it starts leaning backward that I start thinking of guide placement. The only time it works well is when I'm done fishin' and have it laid out straight on a soft flat
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Utmost Enterprises in Sequim.
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Well.....fly rods may be held to very different standard by some people. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder and I, for one, don't care for the look of a cork ring that has absolutely no flaws. Mark's grip sure looks good to me. Some of the rings I use have very few imperfections (if that's what you would call them) and some have more. None of them have fillers. I've found filler to be use
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Maybe what you read referred to using glue to adhere the guides to the blank prior to wrapping???
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Most sponsors also offer butt caps in the rubberizied cork material.
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Either one. If the rings turn out to be what you want, you've found the right place. Just remember that what you get once may or may not be as good as the next batch. Both companies have a good rep as to the quality of their cork.
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