I've had good luck with Angler's Workshop for regular rings. You could give Andy Dear at Lamar Reel Seats a shot as well, he's got some very interesting burl and burnt rings. If you go for regular rings from any of the sponsors, be prepared to fork over your first born for the best quality.
Forum: rodboard

You could sure build two rods that way, one would be good but the other might have some problems I think. You'd be ahead of the game to get the Hot Shot blank you want and make it a three piece. Lots of info available on how to make ferrules. For the spinner, I think you'll end up not with an ultra light, but rather a part of a Hot Shot. As long as you are considering this a project, why
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I know a lot of folks here make their own with out difficulty but the easiest thing I did was call Decal Connection. Got a page of decals that should last a couple of years, shipped it to me the next day. Great service, good company, easy to order from.
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When the rod is flexed to the maximum, past 90 degrees, but not at the "oh , my God, it's gonna break" point, you are at the lock up. With that blank, you should have room to make the transition in the space between the foregrip and the first 180 guide placed at the point of maximum bend.
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On that rod, I think I'd put the first 180 guide at the lock up point. The first guide should go where the reel, line and foregrip tell it to go. The line shouldn't touch the foregrip or blank when the rod is stressed. Your first guide will always start the transition, even if it's at 0 degrees. Mine will always be slightly off 0 degrees toward the spiral side.
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Glide dental floss. it's flat, thin, strong and leaves no color. And it's free every time I go the the dentist. He thinks I floss every twenty minutes since I always ask for three or four extra spools.
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Me too.
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Nope...I don't agree. Now if I was to buy a jillion parts and get the jillion part price I might be able to put one together for $5.00 less. Unfortunately, I can't afford to buy a jillion parts to make my one or two rods. Since there are no "factory " made Rainshadows, you really can't compare them to any store bought rod either. Don't misunderstand, I too often wonder why the kit
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A second for Larry's garnet and silver, but I've seen Karry's blue and green and it's a sweet combo.
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Clyde...what you are doing is past me, however, if you can get ahold of back issues of Rodmaker, there are two excellent articles on repair and extending a blank. I have a feeling that your basic premise of butt over tip mating without building a ferrule is asking for failure. The articles mentioned don't address exactly what you want to do, but will sure explain what you DON'T want to do.
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I know that I can peel the finish off guide wraps with my fingernail, and the stuff is still flexible when I do it. I also know I've broken more fingernails trying to break apart cork rings or reel seat pieces for repairs that have been done with Rod Bond. My choice would be adhesive for gluing parts and finish for finishing thread. They will not serve the same purpose.
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I still turn all my cork on the Custom Power Wrap, on the blank, each ring hand reamed to fit, glued on and clamped in a home made jig. No problems yet, but I have lots of wood to knock on just in case.
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Is this right??? You plan on making a two piece blank by joining two pieces (each 4' long) together permanently, butt over tip, with mesh tape and Rod Bond, then adding another 4' tip section to this? If so, I'd be a bit leery of those joints, it just doesn't sound as if you are making any ferrule. And by cutting off some of the tip end of the butt section you have effectively changed t
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Flex Coat arbors are a snap. Use them full length or cut into smaller sections. Drill them out with the Flex Coat pilot drill bits (or make your own with ). I'd be hesitant to use any type of finish as an adhesive. Lots of people use tape as arbors and have had no failures, but seat repairs I've done nearly always are a result of tape and /or adhesive failure, causing the seat to come loos
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Emory is right. Rainshadow and Batson Enterprise is alive and well. The new line is beautiful, you'll forget about the Cascade Composite blanks the minute you see the new stuff. Now if only the RX8+ would show up, but it'll be worth the wait.
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Jeeesh.....stop talking about it, some of us are waiting at the mailbox in the rain two hours before the mailperson comes. Will it be today???Pleeese????
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I don't think it's crucial to put a guide on the ferrule at all. If thats how it works out, good. It's easy to put a ferrule wrap on first, even if it's temporary, just to provide protection during your distribution test. if the guide falls on that location, cut the temporary wrap off and put the guide there. Otherwise, the guides will go where the test indicates they should.
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Closer to the blank where? If you use single foot ceramic fly guides from the transition out your about as close as you can get. Go ahead and use the locking wrap there. The height of the guides for the transition are dependent on the reel and the number of guides you chose to use. I think it could be done with single foot guides and no doubt has. The pressure on the side of one guide is re
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Sure, you can put finish on the underwraps, it will provide a good smooth surface for the guide wrap. Color preserver will work as well, but depending on how much tension you wrap with, there is always the chance that one of your guide wraps will "fall in between" the underwrap. Although, that's going to be less likley with D over A.
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Yes....the guides used to "get around" are called transition guides. No....the guides do not have to be different types. Although depending on the rod, reel, foregrip etc. you may need a higher frame guide to start the "get around" with so that the line wont touch the blank. If you are rewrapping an old rod, by all means use the existing guides. Tape them on and see if y
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I'm still checking @#$%& Ray. If I find them can I keep one??????
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Mark: My curiosity has the best of me. How long are the rods you are building with the 4 transition guides and what is the offset of that last 10?
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Your 180's are the transition guides. As Spencer says, single foot flys from the transition out are perfect. Regular U frame double foot guides like Fugi's or Forecast will work well for the transition. Nothing wrong with a high frame spinning guide, it's just that you will most likely not need it.. On a 7' rod the turn should be easily made with three guides. For 20# line I'd stick with a
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Can't go wrong with the Rainshadow. Beautiful blanks, I have aRX6 4wt. but would rather go with the RX7. The RX8 is fantastic, they just don't have the full line out yet. If you have a dealer near you, I'd strongly suggest taking a look at the RX8.
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I have 4 of the Pfleugers now, price was a consideration at first but I love those things now. Smooth casting, easy brake adjustment and nice drags. I use them for all my salmon and steelhead rigs. Also just bought a President spinning reel. Unused yet, but if it's like the Trions, I'll be a happy camper.
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Hook keepers....ahh the look of a gob of egg juice on a nice butt wrap!!! The nice deep scratches in the signature wrap!.! The great chips and dings from a spinner blade bouncing just above the grip!! Single foot fly guides look the best and I'll use em' if requested, but for my own rods, its hook somewhere on the reel and I'm rowing to the next hole.
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You got some good info here. Guide foot prep is very important, a shallow ramp is what you want. Underwraps or not, most folk wrap up the guide foot, if the foot is properly prepped, the thread should just walk right up the foot without any problem. If you are using a doublefooted guide, you would wrap each side from the end of the guide foot up the foot towards the ring. It's a good ide
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I don't know if there is any difference in frame strength between a heavy duty U frame guide and the turbos. I use them because to me they just look better. As far as rings, I know Forecast carries both types of guides in two different materials.
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You'll most likley have to call a vendor to find out what's in stock. I'm starting a RX7 4wt. Very impressed with the blank color and finish.
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Yup.
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