Batson Enterprises has them as well, some awfully nice bass blanks in the bunch.
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The thing to consider would be if the reel is round or low profile. Even then the object would be to keep the line from touching the blank before getting to the first guide when the rod is stressed and that should be easy enough to do with any reel. If you want to make it really simple, try the simple spiral. It's easy to set up and works as well, or even better, than other methods. If the ro
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They don't get all the big ones!!!!!
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Your story reminds me of the old song "Heaven, I'm in Heaven....." here I sit with Utmost Enterprises, Batson Enterprises and PacBay all within spittin' distance of my front door. And Angler's isn't that far either.
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I found a set of gel metallic pens at WalMart with a tip on each end, one fat line and the other a good fine tip.
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I just gave a "good shake" to my IST1026 and 1025 with texalium handles and don't feel anything out of sorts???? 1 has three poly arbors and the other is 3 cork ring arbors. Both use blank exposed trigger reel seats with a cork bushing at the rear of the seat. Maybe the contact of the blank exposed seat eliminates the flex that might occur at the point the handle and seat join??
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Jay's got it. If you use fingers to get the locking wraps over the guide you can get a little less tension. I've been using one of those little hookie things for darning socks, grabs the thread and pulls it over the guide. It can be done without losing any tension.
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Static test it just as you would a guides on top casting rod then flip all but the butt guide to the bottom.
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Theres so much tension on mine that it pulls the magnets apart unless I use at least two of the paper spacers. Never had a problem with loose guides.
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You are right on the guide placement for the spiral, but that placement is the "simple spiral" and you might want to consider a smaller, lower frame guide as the 90 degree bumper guide, so you would have 10, small bumper, 8,7,7 etc.. Most folk suggest a double foot as the bumper, and that's probably correct for heavier salt rods. I have had no problem using a single foot fly guide i
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Can't help on the first issue of match guides. The only ones I'm familar with are Forecast and they wont break unless you stand on them! If you have the steelhead rod stripped, apply the permagloss with a foam brush. Cut a small a V in the top of the brush, load with PG and run it down the blank once. Let dry and repeat. I generally cut a piece of the foam from a large brush and just wad i
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I don't think you should clean the wraps with anything. That will introduce a whole pile of new problems. A bristle brush can be used to clean all the dust or use a vacuum cleaner wand held next to the wrap. I've used tape to trap dust before finishing but still think brushing the stuff off is the best way to go.
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Double sided tape at each end, bands of up to 8, cut to fit up or down, it's too hard to keep em' from crossing if I try to get a complete up and down pass. With the right tension, you can just sort of wiggle the bands as they are placed and the threads will fall into place without crossing.
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Something else to try....the Sulky is a bit smaller diameter as already stated, try using two strands of metallic colors instead of one. Gold and silver together look like a "champagne" ( that one came from Batson's Enterprise's Bill Batson) The copper and gold together are very subtle.
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I use "custom crafted" for mine. It may not be built for a customer but it is built for me. I wish I had more customers that wanted one completely custom styled and built, but I don't and If someone comes to my shop and sees a rod there that they like, I'll be glad to talk dollars. I always get a kick out of person that picks up a quality rod and says "I've been looking for s
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Now THAT'S funny!!!!!!!
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I've got a lot of the Forecast blue and gold ring guides on the water and they seem to hold up just fine. Finished a repair on a Hot Shot blank with the gold rings thats almost two years old, used about 100 days a year on rivers and the guides looked bright.
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Just registered and already down to page two!! You've got to be fast on here Louis!!! If it's a casting rod, start with a 16 or even a 12 and get down to 7's quick. 16, 12, 8,7,7,7,7. If it's spinning, you should start with the reel to be used as that will determine your first guide. The library here has a good article on setting up a spinning rod, actually a bunch of good stuff in there.
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I think Ralph will also tell you that if you have glue squeeze out from the rings, you've used to much!!. Watch him apply Rod Bond......put it on the face of the cork and then TAKE IT ALL OFF. What's left is the amount needed for proper adhesion. And denatured alcohol works just fine for getting rid of any glue still on the seat or blank.
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Well...if your handwriting needs work, then decals are the way to go. I sometimes use the decal of my logo, but more often than not, I write the name and blank info with a gel pen. Found a package of 5 metallic pens, thick point at one end and fine point at the other. I had trouble finding a gel with a fine enough tip for those little letters and numbers and the set from W..M... was just w
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Maybe someone at the off shore factory made a mistake and put on a few hundred guides backwards!!! Rather than scrap them or pay to take them back and redo it, some genius came up with a marketing plan!!! I should have thought of that when I epoxy a tip top on the wrong way, or an upside down reel seat. A silk purse out of a sow's ear.....who woulda thought!!!
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I watched Ralph O'Quinn do a sample with his U-40 LS and get a beautifual level finish by not using a motorizied dryer. Being a hardcore power user, it was like pulling teeth to get me away from my dryer motor, but after seeing the results, I'll not go back to power unless I've got no time to tend the rod every 10-15 minutes.
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The Rainshadow/Forecast products are excellent quality. There is no "code". Most blanks are listed by length and power with letters first indicating what type of blank it is. Foe example: IF 904 means Fly, 9' 4wt ISB782 means Spin, Bass 6'6" 2 "power" Not really a mystery, you just have to work through it. If you have any questions, and I do mean any q
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And they look better than the U frame guides. Also less expensive than using rollers on a heavier set up.
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Just to put your mind at rest Tom, most, if not all the folks at Batson Enterprises are rod builders and fishermen. There is almost always a rod in construction somewhere in the offices every time I get in there. Most of the staff have been doing the rodbuilding and component business for many years.. It's one of the few places that you can ask a question and get a straight answer from someon
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Thanks Stan, that's what I was looking for.
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Italo: I'm sure that All American Guides are the only folks that carry spiral rollers. They have very concise directions for the placement of those guides, or at least the butt guide placement. All American is a sponsor here, and they are wonderful people to deal with. Perhaps they can answer your questions.
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And which type of their metallics are you using??
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I'm surprised no has mentioned that you can fix it. It's a fairly easy repair and if done properly will have little effect on the action and will hardly be noticeable.
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The electricians tape hint is a great idea. It stretches and conforms to the threads on the seat. If the problem is Rod Bond on the cork grip and you are using rings, maybe you are putting on too much? Rod Bond works really well by putting it on the ring and wiping it off, if you have squeeze out, it's on too heavy. Otherwise, the electricians tape and alcohol should clean up any left ove
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