If the finish gets tacky while you are applying it STOP. Do NOT use it to do the rest of the rod. Mix a new batch to finish the remaining wraps. Work quickly to do all the wraps, and then go back and check for dry spots, drips, etc. and fix them while the finish is still liquid. Depending on how you are mixing it, 3cc's of each part is a lot of finish to mix and you may be using up some
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by Lamiglas ISP705 Inshore JB CR LCB SB 7"0" 1 PC 10-20 lb line 1/2-1 1/2 lures mod-fast butt .520 tip 5.5 blank wt. 2 power MH $61.60
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As to the lathe speed for drilling holes it's no different than the speed you'd use with a drill press to drill a stationary item, but in this case it's the work piece that's turning. What size drill bit are you using? Do a search for "drill speed for wood" or similar to get recommended speeds.
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Something that may be helpful for arthritic hands is wearing latex gloves when hand wrapping rods. VERY grippy so you don't have to squeeze the blank as hard when turning it.
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A lot of ice rod blanks in graphite or glass in the 3 to 4 foot long range. You can extend the shorter blanks or trim the longer ones, and most ice blanks are solid blanks (not tubular) so they can be sanded to the tip diameter and action that you choose. Most ice blanks are in the $7 to $20 range so no big expense to experiment with them.
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Epoxy over oil is going to fail and turn "gummy." Epoxy is generally "glossy" but if you lightly buff it after it's well set with a Scotch-brite pad, etc. it will take the shininess off of it. I'd use the same light epoxy for the trim wraps that you use to seal the bark so that it's compatible. If you don't wrap and epoxy the wraps within the recommended recoating time
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Jim Ising Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The most expensive start-up expense for any > particular guide (size) is the mold from which the > frame is stamped. Once a mold is made that will > properly deep press a ring with an OD of, say, > 12mm, the manufacturer has no choice but to create > a ring of 12mm OD. Ring material characteristics
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Roger, I didn't think about the tops on Shakespeare's Ugly Stiks being solid fiberglass, but it makes sense since they look "clear." Someone I spoke with years ago told me how he and a bait shop owner were talking about the Ugly Stiks he had in his shop and he asked him "Do you think you can really bend them like they do in the commercials?" I would guess that they bent the
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Mo Yang Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks everyone. > > Yes, I have always subscribed to the wisdom that > power to weight ratio is a primary determinant of > sensitivity. And also that for a given weight > using the same material, solid blanks provides > less power than tubular blanks. > > > However, I've been d
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There are solid carbon blanks sold as ice fishing blanks. The longest I know of is 48." Also being solid they can be sanded to adjust the action.
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"Power" ratings are different with every manufacturer. An M from one, is a ML with another, and is a MH with a third. The Fenwick is probably more toward a ML than your MHX blank and therefore the fish give a better fight. A medium light would pair up better with the 6lb mono you said you use and will give you a better fight. When matching a rod to the line you intend to use, it's o
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When you say "lighter physical weight" there's only going to be a fraction of an ounce difference between the rods - the reel weighs many times what the rod does, but going smaller runs the risk of getting spooled.... Maybe think about a spinning rod for your "lighter setup" they are better balanced with the reel being under the blank and are less fatiguing.
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Physically measuring something as soft and crushable as thread with a caliper is not likely to give you accurate or consistent measurements. If you know someone at a machine shop, an Optical Comparator is the only way that comes to mind to accurately measure thread and even then there will be the variables of measuring it with tension or with no tension, and if the thread is truly round and not
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Please add tip and butt dimensions for your ICE blanks. Are these solid blanks or conventional tubular blanks? Thanks and best of luck with direct business model.
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It's not the cork that attracted the mice, etc.- likely they smelled dried fish slime on the grip.
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I agree either cork dust or thread to fill the gap. Cork dust mixed with the same finish used for the grip may be the easiest - either a matching or a contrasting color. If you go with thread the gap will have to be cleaned out so that it is equal width and depth for the thread to lay evenly..
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For "dead sticks" fiberglass blanks have a softer flexing tip to avoid spooking fish. SDI also sells rods built on the blanks they sell and those have a more complete description of their uses that can be helpful in choosing a blank. The 34 or 48" blanks would be good dead stick choices and can be trimmed from the butt if you want something shorter.
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Are some of the rollers maybe reversed? The at least one of the three rollers should be offset in each group.
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If you have a manual wrapper this works well for me.
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Jann's sells 1/8x1 1/8" cork rings (actual hole measured 5/32 in mine anyway) that you can make your own handles. Hard to find handles or cork rings that have less than a 1/4" hole in them... Send me an email for some more information.
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A #10 minima match guide is probably comparable and is what many builders use. Utmost is a good source and very reasonable for shipping. Download the Pac Bay catalog. They list the dimensions for guide heights - a great resource for planning your guide layout.
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Looks like it would be a great set up for also applying finish with the ability to crank it faster to apply finish and then slow it down for drying. X4 on the knowledge and insights that Roger generously shares.
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With rods having sentimental value, they would probably not be recognizable with everything that would have to be done to convert what are likely 5 to 5 1/2' blanks into usable two-handed casting rods. I'd vote for leaving the rods as is and using them for fishing styles that they are better suited to like vertical jigging and making short precise casts around cover, etc. or retiring them to t
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Have you taped guides and a handle with a reel on the new blank to static test it against your other rod with sinkers, etc. hanging from each rod to compare them? It's hard to feel the difference in them accurately just by flexing the blank in your hand. There's only so much flex to be had in a solid carbon blank's tip, so you likely are not going to gain a large amount of flex by sanding thi
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Could it be that the thread on the larger guides isn't as tightly packed together as the smaller ones, and therefore the "thread lines"?
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Could it be a different/heavier fly line that is making the rod feel different?
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Thanks for the replies. I was concerned about the material and finish chipping, but that doesn't sound like a problem. Being "lighter and harder than cork" (and less expensive) this seems like an interesting option.
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Maybe from pulling on a snagged lure with braided line? I repaired a splinter on an old glass ice fishing rod using thread finish a few years ago and that has held so far with limited use. You probably want to add a thread wrap or so to hold the splintered part in place. Dan
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I know that polyurethane is used as the core for carbon fiber grips, but Pac Bay has molded PU grips (no carbon fiber on them) that they say can just be coated with paint, rod finish, etc. How durable are plain PU grips when painted or coated with epoxy, etc? Any suggestions for a "soft touch" coating? Thanks. Dan
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Another thing to do is make sure that your clients are assembling the sections correctly by doing a quarter twist or so when mating the sections and not just pushing them straight together.
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