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Tip Top Fit
Posted by: Dan Ertz (---.dsl.airstreamcomm.net)
Date: November 25, 2010 09:26AM

It seems like the tip size in 64ths listed for some blanks is .010 - .012 larger than the decimal size that they list for the same blank. Am I right that it would seem better to go down a half size on the tube in these cases or is it better to have this much play in the fit? (This assuming that the tube and tip sizes run true.)

In the past I've always used the smallest tip top that would fit the rod without having to be "pressed" on. Am I missing something?

Thanks.

Dan

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Re: Tip Top Fit
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (Moderator)
Date: November 25, 2010 09:41AM

Rod blanks are not exactly precision made instruments. They're wound, baked, stripped and sanded in hand operations that preclude any possible precision sizing. The specs you see listed in the catalogs are just target specs.

For that reason it's unlikely you'll get a perfect fit between a blank tip and a tiptop tube. You want a nice close fit which possible but when that's not possible, it's better to go up and shim with thread than to try and force a too small tiptop on the blank. Under no circumstances do you want to sand the tip of the blank to fit a smaller tiptop.

.......................

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Re: Tip Top Fit
Posted by: Steve Gardner (---.nc.res.rr.com)
Date: November 25, 2010 10:01AM

Question;
Based on info about target specs.

If a blank came in with the tip slightly larger the what is spec'ed, what would be the harm in reducing the tip diameter to what the target spec is, seeings how it was spec'ed to be that measurement anyway?

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Re: Tip Top Fit
Posted by: Dan Ertz (---.dsl.airstreamcomm.net)
Date: November 25, 2010 10:03AM

Thanks Tom. That's what I thought.

I know that there will be variations within tolerances for the finished size of the blanks, but the thing that made me wonder was that a major blank company's site listed the tip size in both decimal and 64ths formats and that the sizes are listed half a 64th larger than the decimal size

Have a happy Thanksgiving!

Dan

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Re: Tip Top Fit
Posted by: Bill Napier (---.208.88.219.rdns.vpslime.com)
Date: November 25, 2010 10:15AM

I assume that scraping the paint or clear coat from the blank tip would be OK? Sometimes this gets you the right fit.

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Re: Tip Top Fit
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (Moderator)
Date: November 25, 2010 10:18AM

Steve,

The question is, why is the tip larger than the target spec? If the tip is larger than the target spec because the blank was trimmed a little bit too far back on the mandrel, then the ID isn't on spec either. So, sanding the tip to get the target spec OD leaves you with thinner walls due to the larger ID. I wouldn't do it. You have less margin for error on the tip and related area than anywhere else.

...............

Bill,

Scraping the paint or finish from a blank tip does no harm.

.................

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Re: Tip Top Fit
Posted by: roger wilson (---.hsd1.mn.comcast.net)
Date: November 25, 2010 12:38PM

Dan,
When I fit the tip, I first double check to be sure that you have a "Clean" tip. By that, I mean, to check the tip, to be sure that it has been trimmed cleanly. no bulges, not straight, or bad finish, right at the tip.
If necessary, I trim the tip a 1/16th- to ?? so that I do have a clean tip.
When, I fit a tip, I insure that the tip slides easily onto the tip of the blank. If not, I go to the next size larger tip. If I find that one size tip is just too snug, and there is a bit of slop in the next tip size up, I will check to see if there is room for a thread wrap on the tip to fill the space. If so, I will just do a simple wrap on the tip as a filler.

I have found, especially when working with very very small ice rod blank tips, that I will often have to put on a single or even a double thread wrap to fill the space on the tip to the inside diameter of tip top. I have also found that the addition of the thread often gives the tip more gluing area for the tip top and the tip top actually holds on better with the thread wrap on the tip.

I nearly always have a thread wrap at the tip, so if I find that I need a thread wrap as a filler for a tip, I just do the wrap first - all of the way to the tip, and then glue on the tip .
Rather, than doing the tip after I apply the tip as I normally do.

Remember, when fitting the tip, there needs to be a touch of room between the blank and the inside of the tip for a thin layer of glue. If the tip is so tight on the blank, that glue won't fit, then the tip won't stay on as well.

Also, for a very close fitting tip, I will typically just gently round the corners of the tip, so that after applying glue and applying the tip, I don't catch a piece of graphite and get the tip graphite on the outside of the tip.
i.e. it is easier to add the tip if there is a touch of extreme tip taper on the tip.

Take care
Roger

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Re: Tip Top Fit
Posted by: Dan Ertz (---.dsl.airstreamcomm.net)
Date: November 25, 2010 08:32PM

Thanks for the info Roger. I'll add "tip tube inspection" to my pre-build process.

Being a CPA and former tool & diemaker, when I saw the tip measurement for a blank listed as .068" / 5/64 I thought "No, those are NOT the same size. So which one is it?" Guess I'll end up ordering an extra tip or so to cover the difference between .068 and .078.

Dan

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