I had been thinking about doing this for a while, and have since seen others post passing comments about it, but I have a couple of questions.

This would be a variation of a Tennessee handle spinning rod with about an 11" Graphite tube and a 7'6" ML blank. This rod will be used mostly for presentations with the rod horizontal or slightly lower, so lighter overall weight is more important than the rod being "tip heavy" - though I may add provisions for a removable counter balance for "tip up" presentations.

I was planning to use size D thread to wrap the reel foot and will prep the foot similar to a line guide. Is an underwrap advisable?

Is using a hand-held bobbin the best way to apply the thread, or is there a better way?

The reel I have for this is a magnesium Pflueger Supreme. Should I mask and / or pad the reel foot before before I wrap it in case the reel needs to be removed at some point?

Is a hard "graphite" one inch arbor on each end of the tube enough, or should there be something under the reel?

Any comments and suggestions are welcome.

Thanks.

Dan

Dan

Dan,

I tried using a bobbin, and had a hard time keeping the thread packed. So, I decided to make a modification to my wrapper for the task.

I wrapped a couple guides on a threaded rod, drilled a hole in one of my supports, and bolted the threaded rod into place. It works very well.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

I like to use a split Tennessee handle, and for that two firm arbors are enough. For an 11" tube, I would consider adding a third one under the reel, or in the center, just to be safe.

There is no need for an under wrap, or to pad the reel foot. Those are things that may help minimize scratching of the reel if you remove the reel later, but not something I've tried.

Be sure to let us know how you like it. Afterwards, you will never want to use a reel seat again, at least I don't.

Joe

Edit: Thanks Tom for posting the issue number. I should have mentioned Steve, and gave some credit where credit is due. Sorry Steve. There is a lot of info in that article, and Steve's posts on here have influenced a lot of what I do when building.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/09/2010 01:57PM by Joe Vanfossen.

Thanks Joe. Great idea with wrapping tool!

If you have the Volume 10 #4 issue of RodMaker, you can read Steve Gardner's article on his Vibronics Rods which have reels wrapped to the carbon TN handle.

............

Thanks Tom. The issue has been ordered. On a related note, any thoughts of adding a CD for back issue volumes 10 through 13?

In the meantime, I was hoping to get the components for this and a couple of other rods ordered before the weekend, so additional information regarding parts will be appreciated.

Here is one I wrapped with "E" thread using a hand wrapper. Little slow but it can be done. It was fairly easy to hold tension and pack thread.
[www.rodbuilding.org]

J.B.Hunt
Bowling Green, KY



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/09/2010 09:13PM by Jay Hunt.

Thanks Jay. Very sharp!

Dan;
I would suggest also ordering; Volume 11 issue #1
There is a follow up how-to article to the Volume 10 Issue #4 article, part of which covers wrapping the reel to the tubing.
This will provide additional info for what you want to do, saving you some time and headaches.

BOBBINS;
I've tried them and find them to be frustrating and easier to mess up with. But you may have better success than I

Also would not pad or mask the feet.
Isolating the reel from the tubing in this manor will cost you some sensitivity.
The two times I've had to remover a reel, once the thread was removed, simply applying side pressure to the reel foot stem popped them loose.

No under wrap needed.
And would suggest size "A" thread.
The "D" thread being thicker will soak up more epoxy creating more and unnecessary weight, (as will an under warp)

Thanks Steve. As always, your insights are much appreciated.

The reason I had asked about masking the reel foot was that with their magnesium reels Pflueger provides an adhesive pad to protect the foot, though I would guess that is protect the foot from the mechanical pressures of a screw-type reel seat. I'll go with size A thread and wrap the reel directly to the tube as you suggested.

Dan
That adhesive pad has nothing to do with protecting from pressure on the foot.
It is provided as an insulator; when using aluminum seats or seats where metal parts could come in contact with the magnesium on the reel.

When two types of different metals are in a situation that allows them to be in direct contact with one another.
It causes an effect called-"electrolyses" that causes a chemical reaction between them, which in turn causes the metal to break down, causing a discoloration, corrosion, and eventual deterioration of the two.

Magnesium is more susceptible to this chemical breakdown so the pad is used to isolate between the reel and seat.
It is not a problem with graphite or plastic seats.

Thanks Steve - I didn't think of electrolysis as the reason they include the reel foot pad, but it makes sense.

Steve, I think you are referring to galvanic corrosion. From Wikepedia (yes, I know, not reliable, but right on this defintion): Galvanic corrosion is an electrochemical process in which one metal corrodes preferentially to another when both metals are in electrical contact and immersed in an electrolyte. Conversely, a galvanic reaction is exploited in primary batteries to generate a voltage. A common example is the carbon-zinc cell where the zinc corrodes preferentially to produce a current.

This is why outboard motors used in salt water need a sacrificial anode, so it gets corroded rather than the motor.

As Steve mentions, galvanic corrosion depends on the materials involved and how far apart they are in their galvanic activity (probably not the right term, but the closer the materials are in reactivity the less an issue.) With some combinations the corrosion can be very fast and destructive.

I expect that this problem would not be a significant issue on fresh water rods, but I don't have any data. Insulating the two metals from each other would prevent a problem, but in fresh water, is the advantage worth the weight and sensitivity penalties that might arise?