Dave Affleck Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > So, my question then, would you rather use a YSG > 25 for the butt guide, or, find a 30 on a shorter > frame than the YSG? > > - Dave I would (and do) use the 16 as the butt guide, but that's on a 2500 size Symetre and 2/10 PP braid. I've had 30's on rods, tried 25's, pushed as far a
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Scott Kloosterman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Do to space issues all my rod building must be > done in a corner of the basement where the temp. > only gets to 64-65 deg. Scott, just build a small drying box, long and narrow. Essentially, just big enough for the sections of rod to fit in and a bit of space for a heating element. Could even be
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Tony Childs Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It isn't just the thinners/solvents that are > dangerous. The results of mixing things like > Acetone and Epoxy during cleanup make the particle > sizes small enought to penetrate skin poors, not > to mention several of the cheap nitrile gloves. That's a great point to bring up here and one that
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Yeah, Steve...I noticed that about these types of products. Duncan seems to be the parent company/source of many labels. You might be speaking of the line known as "Aleene's" as well which is a similar (same?) formula under another label, but by Duncan. As a note, the LF is getting considerable harder, yet maintaining flexibility and adhesion quite impressively. Cures fast so to
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Just make sure that razor is CLEAN! Most of the ones I have come with a sheen of oil on them, likely to prevent rust and sticking together in the packing. I knew exactly where I cut off the tag years ago because the 2nd coat did not want to stay in that spot because of the oil that was left there. If you're going to cut tags after the first coat, wash the blade first as it doesn't take much
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Thanks, Tom. the "flexible, yet very hard" part sounds a bit contradictory at first, but I think I get it after this round of experiments and some thought. Ran another search here and came across some of the Permagloss threads that mention other properties such as solvent/xylene in the product. I suspect that the hardness characteristic spoken of is related to that formulation to a c
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Phil Erickson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Most rod wrap > epoxies retain their flexibilities for many many > years. I have repaired rods that are 10-12 years > old epoxied with Flexcoat and find it still has > some flexibility. Yes, they do to a certain extent. However, the key word here being "some" and there is a certain l
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Phil, the original question was pretty open ended as far as potential use. I bought the bottle mainly as a jighead overcoat to replace Devcon 2 ton which is getting hard to come by. Was wondering if it had any other uses or if anyone had used this type of product in fishing and that got me thinking of rodbuilding in general. Gents, I've used Devcon on wraps as an experiment, it does quite we
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Phil Erickson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Is it a "glue" or a "coating", they are different. It's a glue, Phil. But then so to is Devcon 2-Ton, CA glue, and a host of others that serve a dual purpose as a coating or overcoat hence my trying it on a few jigheads first. I'm assuming this 2 oz bottle of Liquid Fusion is an offshoot
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Anyone ever try this stuff for rodbuilding? As described, Liquid Fusion is a clear urethane that's claimed to be non-toxic and waterproof. Says it dries clear, nothing about UV exposure or effects in that area and about 24 hours for complete cure. Cleans up with water when wet, I assume that implies some type of waterbased urethane product. It's a one-part glue, a bit thick, no idea of thread
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Larry Damore Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > Vibrations can not work their way up a slack line. > Impossible. Take a 2 foot long peice of mono > between your finger tips, with the slack sitting > on a table. Larry, you will never do this sitting at a table, you have to hit the water. It may not be vibration in the line, just merely a c
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Russell Brunt Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- Just rather or not adding a guide or two over the bare minimum > makes for a better fish fighting rod in your > personal opinion and if that is considered common > knowledge and/or proven fact. Your concern seems to be of the tip, I'll go the other end and you'll get the same answer. For fighting fish
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Mike Carter Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- >l. > > All with Shimano 2500's 10# braid, guides 16, 8, > 6, 4's out to the tip. Casts unweighted plastics > and small spoons fantastic, and to my surprise, no > wind knots. I'll chime in to echo that guide strategy against the idea of a 30 or 25, with braid the 16 is just fine. I subtracted
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Although I built a spinning rod on a Rainforest 9'/8wt blank, I'll second Larry Damore's suggestion of them. Few years on it and it's a darn nice rod, may build another on PB Rainforest series in the future. Nice quality relative some of the Big Name blanks out there, the ferrule fit was perfect and didn't need to mess with the male end for irregularities. Butt trimmed nicely, didn't need to
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Danny Condruti Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Oh well, I guess I got the > knock-off of the Chinese knock-off of the Japanese > guides. Nah...regardless of reputation or claims, just about everyones quality ebbs and flows over time. Reckon any number of quirks could cause something like this in a process, be nice if they'd test for this occasiona
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I think they are good guides, but I have had a few Alconites that "creaked" a bit from a possibly poor fit between the ring and frame. Most noticed when on a rod or held against a blank while the ring is wiggled. Thought it was the wrap job or foot to blank fit at first, but after going through several guides for testing some actually do have play in them. Doesn't seem to have a bi
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To further belabor the issue with another question, does the fact that it was "3.5's on top" and (I assume) a standard casting build have any bearing on forces that occurred? Specifically, the blank twist/torque that is so often mentioned as a reason for spiral wrapping. Assuming the line path drops from the intended when a guide fails, if the rod is twisting under load would it unloa
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Steve Gardner Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > However I think something else was going on to cause the > problem, He may not have noticed or realized it at > the time and it hard from your stand point to > refute what he is saying. > If by that statement you are referring to the "month of use" mentioned in Rolly's thread openin
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Mike Harris, thanks for taking the time...you nailed it! I guess I dream in colors, didn't know that...pretty colors, too. Bet they'd be expensive, but I would pay for the extra security AND potential convenience of wrapping. Barry Kneller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The bigger question might be- why? Do these guides > need to be improved?
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Thanks for addressing the question, folks...lots of interesting dialog on this topic. Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I would hesitate to assume that there are "pull > out" issues with the so called Micro Guides. A > few dozen pull outs mentioned here, against the > many thousands and thousands of them in good > ser
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I didn't want to digress to this on Rolly Beenen's thread about the micro pull-out issue and I know it is being considered "unresolved" by some. Either way, my question is to the design of micros themselves and whether this is it. Assuming they stick around (looks like it), will the form remain as a single foot/single wrap to save as much weight as possible? Is it possible or pract
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Ron, a 3-4 wt will work nicely with those jigs in terms of casting. Regarding species/size of fish, hooksetting, and general working of a lure the 3 wt has some limitations. I love my 9' 3 wt spinning rod, but the next will be a 5 wt for broader apllications and that's my suggestion for a starter. Down at the 3 wt range it's a great panfish rod and if that's the intent, go for it. If you
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Bill, some folks have used expansion foams like the one in your link for making plug bodies. Tackleunderground (lure making forum) is a good place to get info on that sort of product. Guys, if your speaking of EVA in terms of the "sandal foam" that's used in flip-flops/beach sandals, it comes in every imaginable hardness, density, and formula. Myriad of colors as well, we like it
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Bought some blocks for making poppers once, fella on the phone said he gets it from China and that's where everyone gets it from. IIRC, it was Sleazy Steve (Soggy Bottom Flyshop) and he mentioned large orders (big pieces sawn to size) to make profit...don't know if the place still exists. Not sure about EVA, but I had a relative that worked in a foam factory of some type for awhile in the Midw
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Tom, you stated "In fact, wood will be one of the worst things you can use if you're interested in sensitivity from a vibration standpoint. Heavy wood stands are often used on lathes and other machinery precisely because they excel at deadening vibration. It's the nature of the beast" and that part raised a question for me. Wood actually IS a good transmitter of vibration in some cas
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What if you just use a light wood? Balsa always seems to "dentable" for me, even with epoxy, but the Basswood used for plugs is pretty darn tough. Granted, it may be a little heavier and affect some aspect or definition of sensitivity, whether enough to affect the necessary detection of relevant activity on the other end is doubtful. It's only 2.5 inches. In terms of deading vibr
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Jason, the Avid 8 wt idea is pretty darn good for your purposes and it will handle the lure weights very nicely. I actually have/use a spinning rod built on an Avid 8wt/9' blank and it works for both the fish fighting and the fishing. With 6-12lb test, you'll want to stay around the 8wt area, though you could go with a 6wt/7wt on the lower end of line test. Drop much below that and it's panfi
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What Scott said is likely as large as you need to go. I went oversized on a LU/9'/7wt some years ago and it doesn't offer any advantages IMO, unless you like the sound of the line slapping around in the guides. No difference in casting distance, marginally more weight, very annoying "loose" feel while casting and stripping. Stay on the smaller end, especially if your going with ceram
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Actually, the longer the rod, the more any weight > savings, particularly near the tip, will become > readily apparent. Fly rods tend to benefit from > guide weight reduction more than just about any > other type of rod. Faster damping, quicker > reaction, etc. > > ....................
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Tom White, I searched through your posts and noticed that you DO build rods for others...I'm not sure by your question if this is one of those times. Regardless, you may want to consider what you (or someone else) might be using this rod for in the future. Knots have been mentioned, but what about mini-tip systems? Although a micro guide may work well with a given line used now, it may indeed
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