Do to space issues all my rod building must be done in a corner of the basement where the temp. only gets to 64-65 deg. So far I've not had any curing problems but the finish is not as smooth as I'd like. I've heated the epoxy and that helps but still not quite as good as I'd like. This is only my 7th-8th build so I know some (most) is do to lack of experiance but short of heat lamps is there anything else I can try? Is there an epoxy that works better in cold temps?

Scott Kloosterman

Heating up the resin is about the best you can do. Another thing that can help, once the finish is mixed, spread it out on aluminum foil, it helps it last a bit longer. Or Mudhole as aluminum foil dishes, like 3" in diameter which lets the finish spread out more. Spreading it out also help you get rid of more of the bubbles in the finish.

Also where you located at? Looking at your post, it looks like you might be in the Chicago area. I am also so if you wanted to call or something, let me know.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/12/2011 11:51AM by Mike Sledden.

Although it will stay "wet" longer at that temperature, it will also be thicker and a bit harder to work and flow. In this situation, you might try one of the "lite" versions of any of the popular epoxies. Plan on applying two coats.

..............

You could also build a drying box that uses lightbulbs to maintain a higher temp while drying. Check the photo pages

You could build a simple "drying box". A little bit of wood/plexiglass and a 100 watt light bulb should suffice.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

I live in Alaska and have the same temp problem so i heat the Finnish in front of a portable heater for 10-15 min then work fast.

The temperature in my rod building room usually stays around 80 degrees (I live in Houston), but last night we had some unusually cold weather for our part of the state. This morning, while putting a second coat of epoxy on a weave, I noticed that the epoxy was pulling apart in some areas. The temp in the room was 60 degrees. I used a heat gun and finally got the finish to even out.

Scott, I also work in my basement and most of the time when I get down there it is
62 - 65 degrees. I run a space heater (some times I use both of mine) for an hour
or more until the room gets to 72 degrees.
I warm up my finish (flexcoat high build) by putting both bottles on the heater for
about (5) min. (warm only not hot !! - you'll see that part A (black) thins outs quite a bit.).
Then mix, pour the mixed finish on a piece of foil, lightly blow on it to eliminate bubbles,
then apply and put it on the dryer.

I find that having my room at (least) 72 helps the finish dry smoothly.

Thanks for all the input. Looks like I need to fire up the space heater/heat lamp and work on my technique.

Mike
I grew up in the western burbs but am now living outside of Detroit.Thank you for the offer it would be nice to find someone in the area to show me the ropes. I've inquired at Janns but they don't seem to want to have any classes (the counter staff has always been far more than helpful with any and all questions from a newbie!!!!).

Scott Kloosterman

i have to supply any and all heat in garage, i hang 3 heat lamps above my work area, and have an old dorm ref. box (insulated) i have a 40 wat bulb inside and keeps my epoxy, cp and stuff around 75 to 80 degrees. works out ok, i don't mind a little longer drying time, as long as it flows smooth first.

I like working in a warm room around 75%. I always place my A/B mixes in the Microwave for 15 seconds. When mixing a graduated container. I always put the hardener in first. Hardener is denser and heaver than Risen. This will give you a better equal mix, I then fold the 2 to gather not whipping for a minimum of 3 minutes. let set for 2 minutes then pout in to a foil container and spread it out this will help eliminate bubbles. You do not have a warm area, you can use a small space heater or light bulbs over the finish on your work table. As mentioned earlier you can design a drying box there are many style out there. Do a search. I have one I made out of Plexiglas that is 8 ft long 6 inches high and 5 inches wide total cost 8 bucks I use a string of XMass tree lights for heat. I also modified my dryer with blades to circulate the warm air in the box. I placed 3 1/4 inch holes at the far end so warm air will flow. I had the Plexiglas cut for me at the glass shop where I purchased from. I used Rod Bond to glue it together

Good Wraps Bob

Scott,

Where outside of Detroit?? I'/m just south of Detroit (where the Detroit river goes into Lake Erie) in Southgate. Your email is hidden but give me a shout if you want to get together or need any help!!! mbarkley@wowway.com

Mike (Southgate, MI)
If I don't want to, I don't have to and nobody can make me (except my wife) cuz I'm RETIRED!!

Scott Kloosterman Wrote:
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> Do to space issues all my rod building must be
> done in a corner of the basement where the temp.
> only gets to 64-65 deg.

Scott, just build a small drying box, long and narrow. Essentially, just big enough for the sections of rod to fit in and a bit of space for a heating element. Could even be cardboard, cheap hardware store foam board could be used as well, just cut it and tape it together. It just needs to trap the heat, nothing fancy.

The "heating element" is nothing more than a few of those shake & bake handwarmers which go by the name of Grabbers or Hot Hands. You know what I mean, they are available just about anywhere and often on sale. Try throwing a few of those in the box and see how much it brings the temp up, I'm betting it will go well into the 70's in a small box. May have to shake 'em every few hours, but that's easy.

Really, you could simply set the Hot Hand warmers on the bench/table near/under the drying rod and set the open bottom box over the whole thing so it functions like a heat dome. If it works, you won't have to worry about fire hazards because they don't get THAT hot.

I just pulled that idea out of my rear and have never done this, so you'll have to see for yourself if it actually works. Sounds like it might and it's about the most space saving idea I can think of without using electricity in a small, (cluttered?) area.