Is it the paint or is it the epoxy?
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I second the Blackhole. Only blank that I use now for my personal rods.
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Thanks Tom. That is exactly what is happening. I will leave the sleeve off. However I did have to oder a new brace with shorter screwed hooks as the stock ones were too long. The bent butt rod will be used in PEI jn September for the Giants.
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Do you need to use a slip over reel sleeve for mounting a Penn 80S front brace when using the Aftco unibutts. It seems that the metal portion in front of the ferrule is enough to mount the brace on to it with out having to use the additional sleeve.
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Thanks everyone. As usual, I think that I have the answer. I will go with the alternative of adding a section of blank as a bushing. I guess I need to visit a few shops to see what they may have laying around.
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Greg at Aftco recommended using a bushing turned from hickory or other hard wood. He also mentioned using a piece of butt section as a bushing. I don't have a lathe so I guess I will try the second alternative. Thanks everyone
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I have sent an email to Greg Stotesbury of Aftco already but have not yet received a response. I would be interested in why do they make the ferrule so short and if they lengthen it, would it make it stronger? I am awaiting the shipment of the blank and the ferrule so I will not be able to do anything until next week when all the parts arrive.
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I have sent an email to Greg Stotesbury of Aftco already but have not yet received a response. I would be interested in why do they make the ferrule so short and if they lengthen it, would it make it stronger? I am awaiting the shipment of the blank and the ferrule so I will not be able to do anything until next week when all the parts arrive.
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I will look through my supply of cut butts to see if I can find something to fit. I would suppose that if I can get it close, then the dry wall mesh can be used on a limited basis.
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I have asked this in the past and have followed the recommendations of using Rod Bond along with Dry Wall tape to make the connection between blank and ferrule. I am using a size 2 ferrule and a blank that is only 5/8 inch in diameter so I have lots of space to build up. Two factors are a concern to me. First, is the build up using rod bond and dry wall tape still the recommended method? Seco
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Looks like Matagi components. I think Mudhole has them or similar.
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My CPW is an older model. It does not have any belts and is directly connected to the motor which is completely free wheeling. I can hand turn or use the power. The only fault with it is sometimes the lower speed is hard to control, but I can slow it down by putting hand pressure on the rod. I am thinking that a better foot control may resolve this small problem.
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Over the years I have toured the old Sabre factory, Calstar and Seeker ( most recently ). The processes used to make a blank is far too complex for one to fully describe... even though I did the tours. I do not remember a vacuum process. It was more like cellephane wrap tightly wound onto the blank prior to going into the oven. It may have been some sort of shrink wrap but I do not remember t
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Thank you. Now that makes sense. And yes, I have seen very tall stripper guides being used.
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Yes, I would certainly use static deflection for the rest of the guides but my question was about the stripper guide being placed within 10-12 inches from the reel. Would this aid in line lay onto the reel as you work the rod up and down in the jigging motion and do not want to guide the line onto the reel. No concern for castability as jiggers just drop the jig into the water.
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I have seen some short jigging rods ( 5 ft - 5.5 ft length ) with the stripper guide only about 10-12 inches from the reel face. The reel used is a Shimano 40N with a very narrow spool width. I have been told that this allows the line to lay onto the reel with little guidance by the angler. These rods will not be casted and is designed only to facilitate the jigging action with no line guida
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Thank you. I was away for the holidays so sorry for the late response. Happy new years.
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Found some that I had forgotten about but the color is a light brown. Can I still use it or throw it out? Dont know how old it is.
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It was more like craters. The rods have since been re-wrapped so no pictures. I don't want unpleasant reminders... lol I am very confident that my methods preclude mixing two syringes of the same component.
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I must admit that working on 4 rods at a time, things do get mixed up a bit. Seems that every one says that different brands of epoxies would not react adversely against one another. In my haste, I may have had some air bubbles in one of the syringes that may have caused a bad mix but when this has happened in the past, I was able to re-coat and fix the problem. But, why did I have this blotch
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I use the syringes for measuring the epoxies and I continued to use the Threadmaster on the rods after re-wrapping and it is curing properly. The the other finish was used on a number of rods until I ran out and it cured properly as well. All that I can come up with is that they have a compatibility issue between the two. Perhaps had the epoxy completely cured... ie longer period, this would n
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Not sure what happened but this is the scenario. I was building 4 rods at a time and started with finish on all of them. But I ran out of the that finish on the last two rods that already had a coat of finish on it and had dried after 12 hours on the dryer. I then put Threadmaster lite as the final coat on top of the dried other finish. The finish looked ok when I applied it but soon after it
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I do not have much experience with different brands and models of rod lathes but I suppose that the answer to your question would be dependent on which brand or model you choose. I use a CPW rod lathe and the model that I have is directly connected to the motor with no pulley nor belt. The motor is free wheeling when not powered so it is easy to turn by hand ( backwards and forward) when the sit
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Go to anglers resource at the left to view fuji products available here.
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Like john Locke said, a drill guide is your very best bet and you can find it in most any home depot or hardware store. Drills are sized in 64th. A size 8 tip is 8/64 ( drill size is 1/16 )( 8/64 = 1/16) and a size 9 tip is 9/64 etc. I prefer the drill guide over the tip guages as you can slide it down the tip to where you think the tip will reside.
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It is very important to mount the ferrule straight to the blank. Mount to your wrapper and watch while it spins. If not straight, you will know. Adjust it andz let it set.
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Sorry for the confusion. What I meant to say is that I will forward this info to my friend who needs these guides. Thank you to everyone who responded.
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Thanks, I will pass on your info
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Thanks for looking.
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Mudhole is back ordered and Anglers Resource does not even list those two smaller sizes on their website so suspect that it is discontinued or temporarily out of stock.
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