I would suggest you check with the manufaturer to see if you can cover it and record the source, date, time. Here is what I wrote some time ago about my expierence with Sage blanks: the reason for needing the Sage decal on the blank in order for them to honor their warrantee is not to beable to identify the blank as one of theirs, but to tell if it is not a second or if it is not a first tha
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I have used both flex coat as well as 811. Both thinned. What you need to realize is you can say I will apply just x number of coats and the threads will be color protected. After you put opn your first coat and it is dried you can a pply a very lite 2nd coat and if the threads don't darken from being wetted then the first coat did its job. you can also put a little Isopropyl on the "DRIED&
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Another thing to consider is many times with a graphite rod you could have got it dinged by a sharp boat gunnel, some ones lure that was being cast or a whole host of other sharp dings and the rod will for quite some time function without any problem. However if some of the graphite fibers were fractured, others may continue to fracture in that spot and then some day maybe a year or more later th
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I have an older Sears wood lathe that I purchased in the late 60s and it was old back then. back then Sears was introducing the laths built around the round tubes for the base. mine has a heavy cast iron base and is power by what ever motor you want to hang on behind the head stock via a belt. Since it has such a heavy cast base it absolutely won't warp or spring out of trueness from the center l
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In 2005 I wrote what I think is a good way to level the center line on your blank. See:
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I picked up a good Craftsman from a pawn shop. I even asked for and got a price reduction. Was like brand new and cheap. Kerry
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If you don't want to waste a good peice of wood be sure to seal the end grains. Moisture will leave via the end grains faster than through the sides. This will cause stress forces which usually will cause the wood to split. many years ago I think I read concerning gun stock wood to get it to nominal dryness is that they figure it takes about 2 years per inch thinkness, but I am not sure of the ex
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You should try the new thread tension device made by ALL AMERICAN ROLLER GUIDES. The tension is controlled by the attraction of two magnets that is on the threaded rod holding the thread spool. there is nothing that grips the thread. Kerry
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Don't apply too much at each application. the thinner the finish the smaller amount you can apply. If you apply more than the max for your particular finish it will start to sag and you will get the ripple effect.
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I talked to Bob and he said he is going back to the hospital Tuesday. He said he is having a hard time seeing out of the same eye again. One thing he said is that it is like looking out of a binocular only backwards where everything appears small and far away, (detached Retina) and I think he said he has blood in the eye. So he says they will be taking his eye out (not completely) and putting
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I think Merrick Tackle has a sturgeon. Kerry
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David Not exactly sure what your question is, but here goes: The wrap thread can be any color (what ever background color your want, but of course you want one that will be in contrast with the colors of your Design threads) I use black most of the time. As far as Wrap thread numbers, How I number my patterns is to start by going to a row of squares just above the top most part of the pattern
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Jim That is a beautiful weave! Kerry
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I think Anglers Workshop and Merrick tackle both have it. Kerry
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Don't you have to be concerned with too small of a stripper guide causing a level wind reel not to fill all the way to the sides especially something with a wide spool like a penn 330 GTI on a larger rod? Kerry
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Chris I find that by using "A" thread for my design threads and "B" for my wrap thread the weave will come out proportionate for me. You can judge from looking at my weaves. The tension on the wrap thread will cause it to be close to the design threads (that was a question I asked the attendees to the presentations I gave at the last Pacific Northwest Custom Rod Builders ge
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Harv Thanks for the kind comment. Kerry
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Polyneon works very good. Kerry
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For quite some time I have seen builders say they try to level their rods by putting various kinds of levels on the top of their rod and doing all sorts of compensations for the slope of the top of the blank because of the taper. What you need to do is put the right kind of level on the side of the rod and here is how you do it. go to your hardware store and buy a "line level" it will
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Hardaloy will work just fine. Kerry
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I have exactly the same setup as Larry. Kerry
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The only problem I have had is, after years of getting my hands in solvent/gas, when I get too much on my hands I get contact dermatitis which is a red rash on my hands. My system has changed and no longer would allow the abuse after all the years of contact with them. I now have a ointment perscribed by my doctor and it goes away quite fast. I just am now more aware. I still have not become acus
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I am just wondering, I have used the "placing the rod behind the knees method" when I had problems taking apart a rod with the metal ferrule and it worked because basically the walls of both halves was parallel. Now with the ferrules that are one with the blank itself and the directions from the manufacturer to put together 90 degrees out of alignment and then with an inward LIGHT force
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I don't see anything wrong with those sizes. Kerry
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Since it is a trolling rod, why don't you do a spiral wrap, then it doesn't make any difference as to which side you put the guides. Also since it is a trolling rod and not a casting rod why are you using a trigger reel seat? As Far as the guide spacing I imagine Karry has given you what the factory rod on the blank has. It is easy enough to figure out your self by fixing the rod with everything
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Since it is a trolling rod, why don't you do a spiral wrap, then it doesn't make any difference as to which side you put the guides. Also since it is a trolling rod and not a casting rod why are you using a trigger reel seat? As Far as the guide spacing I imagine Karry has given you what the factory rod on the blank has. It is easy enough to figure out your self by fixing the rod with everything
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You should do a search, (click on the top of the page) there are 54 different emails concerning weaving and many talk about what the person thought as the best or a great Weaving Loom.
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Yes, once your fixative has dried you should be able to finish with out any problem.
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If I remember right I was told by a manufactures rep once that what you are expierencing is a bad ferrule fit. Kerry Perhaps Tom can confirm this.
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