I
nternet gathering place for custom rod builders
  • Custom Rod Builders - This message board is provided for your use by the sponsors listed on the left side of the page. Feel free to post any question, answers or topics related in any way to custom building. When purchasing products please remember those who sponsor this board.

  • Manufacturers and Vendors - Only board sponsors are permitted and encouraged to promote and advertise products on the board. You may become a sponsor for a nominal fee. It is the sponsor fees that pay for this message board.

  • Rules - Rod building is a decent and rewarding craft. Those who participate in it are assumed to be civilized individuals who are kind and considerate in their dealings with others. Please respond to others in the same fashion in which you would like to be responded to. Registration IS NOW required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting. Posts which are inflammatory, insulting, or that fail to include a proper name and email address will be removed and the persons responsible will be barred from further participation.

    Registration is now required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting.
SPONSORS

2024 ICRBE EXPO
CCS Database
Custom Rod Symbol
Common Cents Info
American Grips Piscari
American Tackle
Anglers Rsrc - Fuji
BackCreek Custom Rods
BatsonRainshadowALPS
CRB
Cork4Us
HNL Rod Blanks–CTS
Custom Fly Grips LLC
Decal Connection
Flex Coat Co.
Get Bit Outdoors
HFF Custom Rods
HYDRA
Janns Netcraft
Mudhole Custom Tackle
MHX Rod Blanks
North Fork Composites
Palmarius Rods
REC Components
RodBuilders Warehouse
RodHouse France
RodMaker Magazine
Schneiders Rod Shop
SeaGuide Corp.
Stryker Rods & Blanks
TackleZoom
The Rod Room
The FlySpoke Shop
USAmadefactory.com
Utmost Enterprises
VooDoo Rods

covering blank logo
Posted by: Gary Laca (---.20.phonewave.net)
Date: April 02, 2007 09:54AM

Iv'e just received a blank that i'm going to build and surprisingly it has a manufacturer's logo on it. I'm thinking of covering it with a silk underwrap and putting my logo on that spot. Do I have to epoxy the underwrap and add a second layeror, what is the best way to do this. Thanks for the advise.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: covering blank logo
Posted by: Scott Youschak (72.242.111.---)
Date: April 02, 2007 01:33PM

Where is it located? typically the man. logos are located near the butt end of the rod and are covered up with the handle. Are you going to do any sort of butt wrap over the area?? Is it possible just to remove the logo sticker?

If the awnser is no then yes you can just cover with a small wrap, epoxy, apply your logo and then put on another coat.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: covering blank logo
Posted by: Kerry Hansen (---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: April 02, 2007 07:29PM

I would suggest you check with the manufaturer to see if you can cover it and record the source, date, time. Here is what I wrote some time ago about my expierence with Sage blanks:


the reason for needing the Sage decal on the blank in order for them to honor their warrantee is not to beable to identify the blank as one of theirs, but to tell if it is not a second or if it is not a first that they gave to an organization for free which obviously they wouldn't want to have to pay for the blank again. You see they have a thread that they build into the blank that allows them to read the information to tell them what particular model blank it is.

Kerry


What they told me is that they would allow me to cover just a part of the lable. They had it located in a location that by the time I got the seat and grip on the logo was in the area I wanted to put a color change weave.

Kerry

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: covering blank logo
Posted by: Chris Herrera (---.proxy.aol.com)
Date: April 03, 2007 12:04AM

Gary,

I am probably stating the obvious to you, but if you do end up doing a silk wrap over the manuf. label, don't forget to use color preserver to prevent the label from showing through.

I would then finish over it, and if your coat of finish is thick enough to create a smooth surface over the thread (no thread texture to the finish), you would be fine to put your label on, and then finish over.

Chris

Options: ReplyQuote


Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
Webmaster