I have used the size oo in the past, but eventually changed to Gel pens because of the color choices of the ink available.
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And don't forget one variable, the size of the stream you are casting on and how much brush and how much room do you have to cast. this will dictate the length of rod you use. the same goes for fly rods, plus a whole host of other variables.
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Once you mix your finish, pour it out on a flat surface. Never apply it from the mixing cup or you might apply a little finish that didn't get completely mixed and then you will have the opposite problem where the finish doesn't set up. The flat surface can be a piece of aluminum foil which will slow down it's setting up time. you can also put a Ceramic tile, that is cool, under the foil to keep
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Permagloss.
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I suspect that you didn't get the epoxy finish out beyond the edge of the color preservative thus allowing the water to wick under the finish.
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drill it first then turn on the lathe so the outside is concentric with the bore.
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10 lb spiderwire with a small bead tied to it.
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anglers workshop over on the left.
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The air was under the wrap and as the area warmed or finish seeped in to displace the air forcing the bubble out. Not uncommon especially for me when I do a Color Change Weave with a lot of threads running along the blank under the wrap thread.
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You could add a spring steel wire like a heavy piano wire with a loose eye bent in it. then when you stop momentarily to adjust something in the wrap. the spring wire will keep a little tension on the thread.
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Jay thanks, Missed the reference to double foot guides.
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Just returned from a charter Sturgeon fishing trip. I saw how the boat rods were handled. Many of the trips I have been on I see people using rods that maybe only get out to fish once a year some do good, but others don't. I see them resting the rods on the gunnel while fighting a fish. A lot of these rods see use 7 days a week for most of the year. I would not hesitate to use single foot guides
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I believe like with a fly rod you need to pick a blank that will full load with the wt of the lure you are casting so that when the rod is traveling forward it unloads to add to the tip velocity you are moving it. Also if you want the best then get a correct blank as well as a good reel.
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I am sure other have infinitly more experience than I, but I will give you my .02. I remember when I built 11 rods for me and my Son for our annual week long trip to San Filipe. I noticed that on the rods that I put alum. seats on and where I had the reels additionally secured to the seat by using the screws that go from the reel to a plate on the back side of the seat that where the screws happe
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You also might try this when you wrap your thread. Have the thread carrage lag just a little more behind the wrap on the rod so it will pack a little more firmly against the preceeding wrap. You may need to adjust the tension a little so it doesn't climb up on the proceeding wrap. Kerry
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my understanding is you clean first not after.
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I suspect he did not taper the guide foot enough which left the foot too stiff. So when the rod flexed in the area of the guide, the foot of the guide resisted the flex and hence the clouding of the finish.
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And a little history. After the use of Yew wood for various things, about 15 - 20 years it gained prominence because the use of its bark to make a Cancer medicine for Breast cancer. I have a small cabin down by a river and have a Yew wood tree near the cabin that I protect because the tree isn't as common as Fir, Hemlock, Cedar, Maple and all the other species here in Washington. Kerry
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About 15 years ago I saw a presentation at a RodCrafters seminar where the presenter used U40 ROD BOND. He first added a tint to it to make it the color he wanted then made a Winding Check on a rod. It worked good. Good for those of us who: want a little different winding check, who want to make a thread ramp, who forgot to put a winding check on the rod and only realized it after the guides were
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I saw it on "How it's made" and recorded it. Was on making a 3 piece Graphite fly rod.
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How do you feel about having to rebuild the Rod?
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My cable provider changed the date "factory made" is to show from Wed to Sunday. Kerry
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Bill For the small Titanium and others similar single foot guides, I just hold the guide rings by having the ring under the finger nails of my thumb and forefinger. Kerry
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I use a 1" belt sander which was a fine grit, but after "MANY" years of use still cuts great and I now don't have to worry about too much material being removed if I don't pay attention.
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I just scanned through my on line TV Guide for my cable TV provider. These two programs "How It's Made and Factory Made" are two regular featured shows with various topics. Kerry
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If you look at the same channel Wed 1030pm pst there is a program "Factory Made" that has a visit to "A HIGH-TECH FISHING ROD MANUFACTURER" kERRY
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the only time you use the fiberglass tape is to build up the blank to mate with a larger diameter seat or similar problem. so if you are reaming the cork, just make it a close fit so the blank will be centered. If it was larger than the blank the tape is used to build up the blank so it stays centered in the grip/seat.
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I have seen them do it in a factory. What they use is a squeegy. They take a piece of soft rubber about 1/16" thick and using a PUNCH or hot needle they make a hole just a smidge smaller than the smallest diameter of the blank you are coating. they have the film secured in the side of a small square cup. they push the blank in small diameter first, put the coating fluid in the cup then withd
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Nice weave, but I don't think you packed the threads enough. You have to pack the wrap thread all the way around the blank. I also don't think you would be happy with anything you do to cover up the threads showing through. I think I would redo the weave. I have certainly re done a number of weaves. Even the smallest little error that most wouldn't notice bugs me because I know it is there.
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Tried to send you an email with a suggestion, but was blocked so I guess you must have the ans.
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