Beautiful job! What did you use for a finish.
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No at the moment I can't think of anything. I didn't have all the materials Art Durham listed in his article so I adapted/improvised. The one variable that you have available to you is how many thread numbers you want it to accomodate. I am so used to it I don't recall changes I made from the origional plans. Look, I want to make it clear that I don't push this kind of Loom because it is good for
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Yes my Loom only allows me to weave on one side (plus a little wrap down the sides) of the blank like all other looms except the Wonder Weaver which is 360 degrees. Also mine has to be made unless you can find somebody to make one for you. Mine as I made it will only handle 82 different threads, but allows me to have a lot of different colored threads for each thread number position. All Looms wi
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Tom said: Loomis used a very few blanks to make a large number of rods. What you think you weren't able to get, you could get, but not always under the same name or in the same color. I don't believe this is true especially in the GLX line, because I looked and tried. Tom also said in another 10 years there won't be any made in USA blanks. I don't believe this either for the following r
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Fred LOL!
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I agree with Billy and Fred. When Shimano got involved Loomis turned it's back on the custom builder. Gone was the ability to buy all the blanks they Loomis used in making their own rods. Gone was the customer service as previously stated. I realized if they didn't care about my business and decided to go elseware and I did so by going on the other side of Hyway I5 and started doing business with
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Buy a good one. You get what you pay for. You may think a unit is expensive, but if you spread that expense over the number of years you will have used it you will see that it is peanuts/year. I have never regretted getting a very good one and would never go back to my old hand wrapper unless like I said before I was out stream side relaxing and building. To me it is a question of deciding whethe
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I agree about Dale Clemens.
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I am glad it worked. Another happy customer sorta speak. ;>) Like they say," need is the mother of invention". When I had the need and trying to tug on the tiptop trying to guess when it was ready to come off and the plyers acting as a heat sink I said there has to be a better way hence this method. Kerry
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Of course my removal method may damage the tiptop, so would cutting it off. However I have remove them and they were not damaged even though my purpose was to eventually put on a new tip top. When it was said "safely" I was thinking about the blank.
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Here is a method I came up with a bunch of years ago. Works great. I demonstrated it at the Woodland, WA seminar at Lamiglas. The premis is to get the hot guide off before the heat on the tiptop migrates into the blank itself. With this method, just as soon as the heat in the tiptop migrates down into the epoxy to soften it ,the hard stretched rubber band will pull the guide off. Don't stand in f
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Fuji or Amtac titanium frame guides
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Aggressive Squid. I was down out of San Filliped and was fishing for bait late at night. We started catching these 25 lb squid. They were very aggressive coming up and grabbing the pelicans that were swimming around hoping to get some of the bait fish. The next day during a pause in the fishing from our Panga I had my rod hanging over the gunnel with the lure dangling above the water and had a bi
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Instead of wraps you could get some decal transfer numbers in gold/silver/white etc. and put them on your rod with a super thin coat of finish over them. easy to see and understand with neglidgeable weight added.
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I like my pull throughs made with 10 Lb spider wire with a small bead tied on works great and they last for ever.
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I use an 18 rpm dryer and apply finish on it as well. I find for my work, with the rod making a revolution every 3.3 seconds, it works well for me.
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Jason, My advice to you is to follow Clemens book and get proficient at doing the Silouhete weaves and the Multi-color weaves first, so you are used to moving the Design threads back and forth, packing and adjusting them so that it becomes second nature then you are ready to step up to Color Change weaving. Get yourself some old factory rods to practice on.
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I would use a good Carnuba base car wax that does NOT have any polishing agents in it. A can of a good one will almost last you a life time.
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Michael said "I got religion and started using hpyos instead of just estimating equal volumes of resin and hardener." I started doing this 15 years ago and never a problem since. Just drilled a "tight fit" size hole in the lid to match the syringe tip and epoxied it in place. Now exactly equal measurements as well as no mess. The only thing I now need to clean is the stainless
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with no polishing agent
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All you have to do is spray your signature with Krylon Fixitive before you cut it to size to put on your Rod.
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I don't know first hand, but heard that the Manufacturer may not honor the warrentee. Maybe someone who knows first hand can chime in.
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One time While I was in a Pawn Shop looking for a Meketa cordless drill I noticed a Craftsman benchtop 1" belt sander for a very cheap price. You might check around and see what they have for tools. Just have a good idea what they usually cost new.
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I have repaired one once, and I must say the finish was the hardest I have ever encountered in any of the rods I have ever repaired. Not certain if that was just an odd one or like them all. I do know a couple of guys who really liked them in the 9' or longer for casting for Steelhead and Salmon on one of our larger rivers.
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The manufacturer's is correct. Do you think they have time to measure all Tiptops for the hundred of thousands of rods they make? I believe they use epoxy to install like one responder suggested at least that is what I have observed from several visits to Rod Manufacturers. I use 5 minute epoxy and bet the majority Custom Rod makers use the same. You only need to use heat to remove the tip top an
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your problem is you are not getting same numbered threads in each layer one above the other.
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I had a problem once. First I used 10lb test spider wire on a spinning reel for an ultra lite setup. The line was so thin and limp that I started getting wind knots and line tangled on the guides. I also realized I was putting too much line on the spinning reel so that at times several wrap of spool line would come off at the same time. Also it is a real bear trying to to get the knots out of tha
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Really if you think about it, the cost of the finish is cheap, I would just chuck it unless you had a not rodbuilding use for it. Then in the future I would use a syringe epoxied in the cap of your new finish so you always use the correct amount of each and you don't wind up with extra finish of one left over like you have now. Finally I think if you are using a spoon or some other similar mea
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If you have a drill press, make a jig to hold your unturned piece so that the center of the wood nis parallel to the centerline of the drill. Drill it then mount on your mandrel to turn.
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1. adjust thread tension, 2. have the thread carrage lag a little more behind the wrap, 3. make sure you properly taper the guide feet, too much of a hump will cause the thread to have spaces. You should be able to lay the "A" thread down without gaps or just small occasional ones that can be fixed by burnishing. Kerry
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