It is the 3M new Nano binder, not carbon fiber. #M is carefully releasing the product to only a few blank manufacturers at present. Go to the 3M web site and search for the information.
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Question: WHY? That close why not use the guide itself?
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You can buy rubberized cork without a hole (Mudhole) or if the hole is not too large automotive panel fastners (auto supply store) work well.
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Have you checked with G. Loomis?
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What is your question? Looking for sources? Construction help? Design? Finishing?
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Cork will not absorb water or any fluid as it is a closed cell structure and it has no grain as there are no fibers.
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You can acheive the deep high gloss your looking for by sanding the wood to 66o grit, the applying 4 or 5 coats of Tru Oil (follow instructions re drying time) then wet sand with increasing grits of Micr Mesh to 12000 grit.
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They should still be OK, especially as they are still sealed. The Hardener is the one that should be yellowed and it wont effect it's curing.
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If you use something like a Ziplock bag, there is no reason to get any of the parts wet! Boiling water can effect the Rosewood as it is a very oily wood.
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Don't know what your butt cap is made of, but put it in a poly bag and submerge it in boiling water for 10 min and see if that doesn't loosen up the epoxy. You may have to do it a couple of times. Another option....shorten the reel foot if it doesn't harm the reel.
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Are they the bamboo nodes? When all finish is cleaned off they may appear a lighter color.
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Rod varnish is usually used on Bamboo, not graphite. If you want to do the entire rod, and it is graphite (actually carbon fiber) Perma Gloss is a good choice. If you are not familiar with the use of it, be sure to use this sites search capability to learn the process. Done right it does a very nice job without bubbles or such. All that said, coating the entire rod is usually done BEFORE wrap
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Alcohol will not remove cured epoxy! Best to try warming it and use your fingernail as suggested earlier or some thing that will not damage the blank to pick at it. Any solvent strong enough to desolve the epoxy will most like ly also damage the blank finish.
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I also always apply the decals over a coat of epoxy (cured overnight) and have applied a second coat of epoxy immediately after applying the decal. I have nevi had the edges lift and I do not use CP. I do only use Decal Connection decals.
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WOW, someone recommending NOT doing something without first hand knowledge!! If there is a waiting list, it didn't apply to me, as I got mine in 1 week. Tom Morgan represents top quality and the blanks are being made by Kerry Burkheimer another top notch quality guy.
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You can create the taper using Rod Bond. It is better then liquid epoxy that will want to run. I shape the Rd Bond as it begins to set with a finger wet with alcohol. Then over wrap with your choice of thread color, then cover with your finish epoxy.
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If the tweezers have corners or edges that may be the cause. Most good burnishers are rounded without any edges. A rounded item unless the surface is rough should not cause "fuzzies."
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This guy has way too much free time!!! LOL
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Flex Coat recommends using Acetone to thin. It is printed in their brochure. Not more then 1/4 acetone to the two parts epoxy.
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When all else fails...........................read the label!!
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The guide foot adhesive is softer (more like a sticky wax) and it works great on all smaller guides, it however will not hold a heavy guide such as a large stripper when you turn the rod. I use it almost exclusively on my fly rod builds. Takes a little practice to get the hang of it, but once you do, I think you will like it.
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John and Emory....thank you for your offers. Won't need them I see. Thanks again!!
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Rod Maker issue with tickets for reception is not here in California yet. I assume as subscriber we can still get into the reception.
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Tru-Oil will also give a very high gloss finish if wet sanded with micro mesh
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NO HEAT, it does not help! Be sure to seal the foam core before sliding the carbon sleeve on. Some use sanding sealer or even a thin coat of epoxy, let it dry or cure before going on. This will keep air from escaping from the foam. Then when applying the epoxy, flow it on, NOT A LOT OF BRUSHING! I do not use the shrink sleeve method, so I apply multiple coats of epoxy, the number depending u
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I'm going to have trouble flying back to California with all I hope buy! The excess baggage fees will kill me!
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Clyde & Connie, I'm looking forward to seeing you again this year.................................love the Eco!
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Sounds like you should check with Batson.
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Bring the rod, there will be many there who can advise and help you.
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I have used them on a number of fly rods and am very happy with them and no problems.
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