Being a fly fisherman from California attending my third Expo, I am amazed at the input you received!! Anything but true!.
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I would love to see photos of your work to see the effect!
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I would go with the #2 single foot in light wire this allows for a little more knot clearance and the weight difference between the two is so minimal as to be un-noticeable. I have found the Baston guides so well finished they need almost no prep at all.
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Why ceramic insert guides on a light fly rod for nymphing? Not shooting lots of line, basically lobbing an indicator. Single foot wire guides would reduce the weight and serve the purpose.
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I have been successful boring clean edge recesses for reel seats using a Forstner bit. ( 3/4" & 13/16") It must be sharp and the carbon fiber should be well covered withe epoxy. The challenge is centering the bit for boring the recess! I have developed a method that works well for me using a wooden dowel the size of the original grip bore, with the dowel end indented to accept the c
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As the epoxy should have penetrated (at least to some extent) the thread, I don't believe you can remove only the epoxy. Sounds like a guide rewrap is in order.
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Ask Pac Bay.
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The MHX are very good blanks. I have built and fished them and like them a lot. Batson also has very fine blanks! Can't go wrong with either one!!
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The moisture does not have to get under the epoxy to cause this white blush effect!!! Below is an excerpt from a DOW article on the subject. AMINE BLUSH When some epoxy binder systems are applied under low temperature and/or high humidity conditions, a side effect of the curing reaction may appear on the coating surface. This side effect can manifest itself as grey cloudiness;
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I find that the very cheap ones are not as well finished (the feet) and not as consistent in shape and alignment of the feet. Having said all that, you should know that I only build fly rods and have gone over almost exclusively to single foot guides.
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I'm interested as well> How would one "make them?"
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Lynn, maybe some time in Redding's heat this summer would help your back...................................LOL. Was looking forward to seeing you two again this year, now I won't have to carry as much cash to the expo, get better soon.
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I have done up to a 7wt. I only do fly rods and use Pearsall's Gossamer on the lighter weight rods and Gudebrod 00 on the 6wt and up. The key is getting absolute penetration and through soaking on the first coat. If it is not clear none of the subsequent ones will help. I experimented quite a bit with the thinning until I got it worked out. "Water" thin is a must, especially on the
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What is the "advantage" of taking the butt off a switch rod? It is not a "fighting butt!," it is designed for two handed casting! It will dramatically change the balance and make two handed casting impossible and single handed unbalanced.
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I do transparent silk wraps on both bamboo and graphite and find that thinning the epoxy to a water like consistency works beautifully for the first coat. I then let it cure for at least 48 hours before applying the second coat, and I have had zero problems in any way. With the transparent look wraps you usually do not want a high build on the guides. I have had people look at my wraps and swe
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Putting CP on NCP (which means NO CP) is like taking ice to the Artic.. Can't imagine what CP'd NCP colors look like after adding more opacity to an already chalky color.
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Batson has great 6' 6" 2 weights. I have built a number of them for happy customers. Single foot light wire guides will help keep the weight down.
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Why thin it? Would probably mean more coats.
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I find the "3 jaw" perfect for holding mandrels and use the "4 jaw" for square pieces, like reel seat blanks, etc. YEP you will find you use them both.
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I fly domestically and off shore with tubes all the time. They sometimes ask, other times not.
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What I do is soak the bark in hot water for at least 1/2 hour (keep the water hot) then put between to pieces of ply wood and park the car on top of the wood over-night or longer. Works for me..........LOL
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1000 grit is "overkill" it is almost bufing rather then sanding,. Anything more than 400 grit really isn't necessary.
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Loomis blanks are no longer available unless you can find some in a dealers inventory.
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I have never had any problems with the Pac Bay thread. The epoxy does penetrate just like Gudebrod. I also have never experienced the slipping problem you mention.
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You are right....it's "not a good company"..................it's great!
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Roger, I wasn't looking to get into a debate about the merits of various saws! I merely was pointing out that if one believed the Harbor Freight adv that it will cut 3/4" depth they would be disappointed, because it will not. I have many other tools for rod building including larger cutoff saw, miter saw, lathe, drill press, etc.
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Roger, sounds like a lot of work for an application that a bigger saw would accomplish without all the custom modifications. By the way, I was not getting it to cut blanks, but small wood blanks for custom turned reel seats. You can practically make anything work if your willing and able to spend the time and $$ to modify.
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Be careful with that small Harbor Freight cutoff saw. They advertise it as cutting 3/4" depth......it does not! More like 9/16" I know, I bought one and returned it and suggested they correct their advertisement.
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I have never used CP on any water slide decals and have not had any problems with the epoxy directly on the decal. Of course I do put a coat of epoxy down on the blank before applying the decal.
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I am with you Lane! Same for Flock!!
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