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Results 2851 - 2880 of 3403
13 years ago
Phil Erickson
TOM, good for you! One of the great things about this forum is the fact that "cheap shots" and personal criticisms are not allowed.
Keep it up!
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
2852. Re: Epoxy Questions
The voids you describe are called "fish-eyes" and are caused by contaminates on the thread. It can be silicone if you are using other than rod wrapping threads or something introduced after wrapping. Oil from your hands or sprays used in the room are often the culprits.
If you have to leave the wraps for a while before coating, cover them with some thing clean and dry.
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
2853. Re: Epoxy Questions
You can thin the epoxy with a little denatured alcohol, and it will also extend the pot life. However thinning it is never a recommendation. If you still have exposed threads after 2 coats of High Build, you are not applying enough and or brushing it, which is again a no no.
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
2854. Re: cork sealer ?
"Cork Seal" is a water based polymer, not solvent based. Many things can be used to seal and enhance the appearance of cork. I use TruOil frequently as it darkens the cork a little more and is especially nice on the various composite corks.
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
2855. Re: Birch Bark
The earlier you can get it off the log the better. It is then more flexible then it will be later, which makes it easier to flaten out for cutting the rings.
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
I use their components ( carbon fiber and epoxies) a lot. No yellowing and no flaking. As I only build fly rods, I have no experience with rod holders.
Call them and talk to Mike.
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
2858. Re: Custom Decals
I don't know of anyone who can do a decal from a PDF file. That file format is not compatible with most graphic systems. Decal Connection on the left is a wonderful source for many of us.
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
2859. Re: Big News
Tom, you continue to amaze me! Having been involved for my entire career in the printing and publishing business, I have an appreciation for what you do with RodMaker Magazine
How you find time to do anything but the magazine is a real puzzle. Going full color is a big step and one that your readers will appreciate, it makes it even more "a treasure!"
Looking forward to seeing y
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
I am a fan of Fish Hawk. Great consistency good color selection and very nice metallics., Never had a problem with it!
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
If you do the second coat within 24 - 30 hrs you do not need to sand, if longer, best to scuff up with sand paper of scotch pad.
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
I have used Flexcoat Guide Foot Adhesive the past few years with very good results. Takes a little practice to get the hang of doing it right, but once you do it really makes things easy.
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
If it is not set up, you will not need to scuff it and I'm not sure how you would do it anyway if is still tacky.
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
Roger, I think I might state that in another manner, ie. It is where the rod bending begins to stiffen, as all the bending begins at the tip, and a "fast action" stiffens up nearer the tip then a slower action.
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
2865. Re: Guides shifting?
How easy can you move them? Should be barely able to reposition slightly.
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
2866. Re: FINISH GETS DULL
The moisture does NOT have to get under the epoxy! Epoxies will absorb moisture and the extent is due to length of exposure to moisture and temperature. There are some excellent technical articles on this condition and the effects on strength and other properties. The strength effect on rod wraps is not a concern.. The moisture absorbed condition is called "blush" and in most cases can
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
2867. Re: NCP thread and epoxy
The two threads, NCP and non-NCP probably "soak up" epoxy at about the same rates. The reason NCP stays more opaque is due to the additive (supposedly chalk), not because the epoxy is not soaking it.
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
All hardners yellow as they age, more so with exposure to light. It does not effect their other properties and it is still usable.
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
I cannot think of a single instance in rod building where only Xylene will work! Many rod builders build in their homes, and using these dangerous solvents where other family members may be present is at best foolhardy!
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
Use the search feature on this site for "epoxy removal" and you will find a number of threads on the subject. Be sure to use at least the last year period.
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
Just went there and NO PROBLEM connecting to any of the menu sites. In fact it responded faster than most sites.
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
2872. Re: Batson and Mudhole
Batson may be new to you, but it is not to many of us, and I deal with 2 stocking Batson dealers.
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
2873. Re: fly rod guides again
Bobby, it is better to keep subsequent posts on the same thread. Someone reading your latest only has no idea what it is about.
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
Check out Riley Rods a sponsor on the left. They supply carbon what you need.
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
Treating epoxy with heat can cause as many problems as it cures. I found that I can eliminate the bubble problem by using Threadmaster Lite for a first coat on each layer of wraps and then following with the regular Threadmaster. I also found that it helps if the Lite is warm to thin and help it penetrate. I know of some builders who also thin the epoxy with DNA for the first coats.
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
2876. Re: fly rod guides
Dean, I have sent you a guide size chart via email
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
2878. Re: fly rod guides
If you mean a "spade bit" they can be pretty touchy when cutting cork and can catch and gouge easily. If you have them, a Forstner bit works better and cleaner.
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
2879. Re: Part costs
The sale price of an item, does not reflect only the cost of manufacturing! Think of the inventory costs of stocking 100's or 1000's of items, some of which turn over very slowly. In addition there are distribution costs, marketing costs, overhead and of course the profit margin. Given all these costs and some I have probably left out, I don't believe any one in the supply chain is getting fat o
Forum: rodboard 13 years ago
Phil Erickson
2880. Re: Dying Cork
As cork is a closed cell structure (otherwise it would not float for years like net floats) so it will NOT absorb liquids. Some solvents will penetrate the surface shallowly, but not deep enough to sustain coloring against even minimal wear.
The carbon fiber and fiberglass mentioned, can be colored, either with paint or a pigment in epoxy. Mike or Vikky at Riley Rods may be able to advise yo
Forum: rodboard |