My experience with the Batson 2wt, was that their suggested placements were almost "spot on!" During my static tests I rarely needed to move a guide and when I did it was no more than a quarter inch. Have never built the St Croix blank.
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I also am very interested in this technique, any information will be much appreciated. I'm not all clear in how you wrap one thread around another that doesn't end up being a twist!
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Never use rod wrapping epoxy to coat a rod, it's not suitable! When you say "polish" if you mean wax, don't expect to be able to apply anything over the wax, it won't adhere! I'd also be very careful with a grit as heavy as 320, IMO better to start with 400 and then go up as Roger recommends.
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I doubt it has anything to do with the type of cork. I have built a number of "all composite cork" fly rod grips without any adhesion issues.
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Water wont work on epoxy! Alcohol will if you get it before it cures.. Follow tom's advice and you should have very little "mess".
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Never had a problem applying epoxy right over the decal. But, no oily fingers on the top of the decal!
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Single foot guides of course have 1/2 the number of wraps, thus less wieght, especially important as you get closer to the tip. And also of course, 1/2 the wraps is less work! I build only fly rods and I use single foot ( wire on the lighter and ring on the heavier)on all of them, even up to 12 wt's.
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I have successfully thinned Threadmaster with DNA to a water like consistency for applying to Gossamer silk thread to make it entirely transparent with no trapped air. I always let it hen cure for at least 72 hours before applying the top coat. Results have been very good with no side effects.
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What is the rod? Sage what? If Sage Z axis they used Gudebrod #360
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If the rod is a Z axis model (Olive green blank) the thread is Gudebrod #340. I have done a number of repairs on this model and got the thread info from Sage.
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Their catalog does not list everything they have available, call them.
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I believe Anglers Workshop on the left.
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How about one that would turn the rod 180 degrees at adjustable timing?
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I build custom reel seats, however I use skeletons from the suppliers you mention. One of the best looking woods that meet your specs is Amboyna Burl.
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As you are going up into the grip area, no need to make it short! I'd go at least 4-5 inches, and nice and snug.....no slop.
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If it was a Butane lighter, there should not have been "soot", the other type of lighter definitely! The really should never be the need to apply heat to the epoxy.
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Have you tried putting it in boiling water for at least 10-15 minutes? The heat of boiling water will not damage the blank. You may have to repeat this a couple of times, but it has always worked for me.If for some reason you don't want water on the seat, put into a plastic before putting in the water.
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Good job!! A nice investment in those kids future!
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Is that the coat of Perma Gloss peeling from the blank, or is it epoxy? Not sure if it was the alcohol or something else, but there is a definite adhesion problem between the top coat and the one below it and I suspect it is the one below as the Flexcoat product has been around quite a while without hearing of these kinds of issues. When you apply a solvent to another coating (Perma Gloss, ep
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I strongly second Walt's comments!! They are a top notch outfit to deal with.
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What's wrong with some ones curiosity?
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Alcohol is not going to help. Did you do ANYTHING to the blank before applying the Perma Gloss? if the rod had a finish on it before you applied the Perma Gloss, is it coming off the blank with the Perma Gloss?
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With all my builds I give the customer a list of "Do's and Dont's", amongst them is the precaution.....never lay your rod on the ground, because you will step on it! Alesson learned!
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What type of rod? Fly, Spin, casting, etc.
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Not sure what type of rod this is your building, I assume it is not a fly rod. Regarding the question about the spine and your proposal........ let's say you did turn the spine 90 degrees to the left (1/4 turn), do you think the rod loaded with a fish will want to go left or down. Even more apparent if the guides are on the bottom. The leverage the guides apply are far more important then a
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It is the length! You can use any handle configuration you like, as long as you can get both hands on the rod, one above the reel and one below. It of course should also be comfortable for single handed casting as well. I strongly suggest you try to borrow a switch rod to fish with at least a couple of times, as many that I fish Steelhead with, built a switch, and after a few times went up to t
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You have to be fast with PG, and it doesn't take to brushing at all. Use the search feature on this forum to read posts about this very subject.
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NCP black will be lighterr then regular black after applying epoxy as the NCP has chalk added to prevent the wraps becoming transparent. The blank color will also have an effect, less on NCP and more on regular.
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CHEAT?
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In my early rod building experiences, I did not scuff the handle area (I build fly rods only) and have subsequently removed the grip from a few of these rods to update components. In each and every case the bond was very good, no areas of lack of adhesion. I noe scuff, but not sure it adds any benefit. As for the wrap coats, again I do not scuff (even after the first coat curing 3 or 4 days) a
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