Alex, You've got mail!!
Forum: rodboard

Ridge, I'll add one more for you to consider. Bill Stevens introduced something that is perfect for dealing with turning cork. Go to your local pharmacy in the foot care section and get a callous remover. I got one at Wal Mart that has the raspy side on one side, and sandpaper on the other, works great. I also use a surfom sometimes, but you have to be real careful with it, it takes do
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Try a wrap of silver or white tape under where you want your light color.
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Richard, Think of it this way, that person that you just spent a half hour on the phone with today for nothing, may be the one who calls in a couple hundred dollar order tomorrow. Or NOT, depending on the way they were treated the day before!! Make sense?????
Forum: rodboard

Mike, You may also try wrapping from the grip down the ramp. This way your wrapping against the taper and the thread gets tighter as you pack. I may be wrong, but it's just a suggestion.
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I have the jig for making them also. Found out one thing by using them, if you use Rod Bond to attach the piece of tubing, drilling out anything denser than burl cork can cause heat and the Rod Bond will let go. I now use JB Weld, problem gone!!
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Mike, If you don't want to underwrap, I would suggest you paint the blank at the wrap areas with a lighter color. If you don't want to do that, try chrome mylar tape that you can get at any auto parts store in the body work section.
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DR, I use aerosol cans, bought at the local auto parts stores { AutoZone, Advance etc. }. I have used Createx and Testiors spray paints also with good results. The most important thing is to prime with adhesion promoter (spay can at above mentioned parts stores). This is what's used to paint plastic / rubber bumper parts. It makes the paint more flexible so it won't crack and peel.
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DR, I paint them all the time!! Prime with a coat of Adhesion promoter (can be had from your local auto parts store), then paint with a quality auto paint, then clear coat with an auto clearcoat.
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Billy, You may try using some of the polish that is used on the acryllics. That MAY bring the shine back up to the wet look.
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Might try contacting Mark Crouse as well. He carries a lot of those type blanks in stock.
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Well said, Bill, well said!!!!
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I feel pressed to make this comment concerning Bill and his knowledge and ability to promote this craft. At the ICRBE in 2008 Bill did a seminar on marketing. Including myself and Steve Gardner there were only about 15 - 20 folks sittling in that room. Folks, IMHO, you did yourself a vast disservice missing that seminar. That room should have been filled to capacity. I'm positive Steve wi
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Check Backlash Tools, theirs are awesome. I bought some at the ICRBE and I love them.
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Wonder if he mentioned Micro Guides????? What a boost to this craft!!! Be prepared folks, the words out now!!!!!
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Thanks Don, That's exactly what I was talking about!!
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There was a gentleman at the ICRBE that had some awesome hand wrappers. One was given away at the reception. Maybe Tom can provide his contact info.
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Jonathan, I've used the Metalcast in Blue and Green. Too me instead of looking Anodized, it looks like more of a bright candy finish. Very attractive though.
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Paul, Can't positively speak for Mike, but I think he's gonna tell you just enough to make the epoxy opaque. Usually a drop or 2 from a toothpick MAYBE 3.
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I agree with Chris, Let the first coat completely dry before adding a second coat.
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Just starting??? Some may disagree but I would say, hand wrapper!! At least until you learn the ins and outs of wrapping and packing.
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One thing that comes to mind is, presenting to them the advantages of a spiral wrap guide setup over conventional. I would also suugest that you get with Steve Gardner and compare notes concerning micro guides. Bill Stevens or Bobby Feasel would also be good sources for such information. Steve made an awesome presentation on micro set-ups in his seminar in High Point. Also i think I would go
Forum: rodboard

Jon, I'm not disagreeing with Tom on the Surform, but it's pretty rough and cuts really quickly and you can ruin a cork handle in a heartbeat if your not careful with it. I would suggest you go to WalMart or any Pharmacy in the foot care section and pick up a callous remover. It's not as aggressive and you can control it a lot easier.
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Just my point Tom!!! What will we do if we lose that talent and knowledge????
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Tom, I left this reply concerning the seminars, but was afraid you wouldn't see it. It's too important to our craft and to me for you not to see. Tom, One more suggestion: I spoke in person with Ralph and I put this question to him, not being morbid mind you. Ralph, what will we do when your gone? He just chuckled, and said "I don't plan on going anywhere anytime soon!". I th
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Tom, One more suggestion: I spoke in person with Ralph and I put this question to him, not being morbid mind you. Ralph, what will we do when your gone? He just chuckled, and said "I don't plan on going anywhere anytime soon!". I then replied, "I hope not"!! He told me that you had been after him for years to write a book on repairs. My suggestion is KEEP ON HIM!!!!
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Ron, If you will unhide your email address, I will send you some info I have.
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Kevin, I'm with you!! Maybe we can go MERBS, Mid Eastern Rod Builders????????????? I know Billy, that's lame!!
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Or use a silver tape under the wraps. White would work also.
Forum: rodboard

Just make sure the over thread you use IS NOT NCP thread and it will go transparent. Better yet try silk thread.
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