Timothy, I use a high frame 12mm butt guide and 3.5’s for runners on all my spinning rods. I typically use 1000 size reels and 12# braid. If you’d like a copy of my test results, email me.
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Ken, It’s the same chart that’s on the rodbuilders tutorial site. It’s pretty general, but there’s so many variables that it’d be hard to be more definitive.
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Maryann, If you’ll unhide your email address, I’ll send you a chart on the “Effects of Trimming/Extending Blanks” by Cliff Hall. I think it’s also in the photo section somewhere. I frequently cut from the tip end and gain considerable power (at the expense of slowing the action). If you’re going to extend the blank, which also adds some power and gives faster action, you can also tr
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Yup, too big.
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I’m wondering how many guys have tried out the new Microwave Guides and what the impressions are. It’s been a month or so since I built with a set of them….or I should say a partial set, since I only used the double ringed butt guide, the “tall” 6mm and one of the 5’s for the third guide. I was pleasantly surprised as to how well they performed. It’s unfortunate that the guides are
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I believe that's a heavier 30/8 and not the newer 20/6.
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Yes the NCMW5 is the “running guide” that comes with the set. I substituted Fuji 4mm’s which are much smaller/lighter. I normally use 3.5’s for “runners, but the 4mm alconites were a better aesthetic match for the Nanolite MW’s. I stated earlier that I only used the butt guide (double ring) and the tall 6mm from the MW Set, but I did, in fact, use one of the NCMW5’s as the 3rd guide
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Mo, I’ve been using the “rapid choke system” (similar to the “KR”) and recently purchased a set of Microwaves to try out. I found them impressive and they worked at least as well as the “rapid choke”. The biggest drawback for me is that you have to buy the complete set and I only used the butt guide (double ring) and the high 6mm. The $42 bucks is a bit pricy just to get 2 guides,
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Thanks Jim.
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Thanks Eric. Lighter than I thought. Wonder if the standard lock nut is lighter or heavier than the nylon hooded locking nut?
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I normally use Castaway reel seats skeletonized (split) on my rods and they (reel seat) end up weighing around .75 oz. I’m thinking of trying Fuji’s SK2 split grip. Can anyone tell me what the weight is for the SKTPSM (16mm) or the SKTS (nylon hood)(16mm)?
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Excellent video. Makes one wonder if the "choke" guide location is really all that significant.....compared to the size/location of the butt guide.
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David, Check your mail.
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I secure the butt end of the rod with cord or tape to one end of the tube to prevent shifting which would allow the rod tip to contact the tube cap.
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As much as we’d all like to think that the CCS (or RDS) is universal, unfortunately, in the real-world, it is not. Even within the “system(s)”, slightly differing “holding devices” skewed readings can result (another subject). The “promised” CCS ratings that some of the manufacturers were going to be providing, is for some reason, slow in coming. (One of the major blank makers has d
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Alex, What i've done is splice the shorter tubes together with couplings and then I was able to use for shipping.
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I think the general consensus for preference in a crankbait rod has more to do with Power than it does with Action. The manufacturers kinda play games with the Power Ratings (and lure ratings) for crankbait rods (and all others too). Although the Actions may be slower with the crankbait blanks and the blanks may be listed as “medium heavy” or “heavy” power, their actual powers may be cons
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John makes a good point. The dynamics is completely different when casting one-handed as opposed to two-handed. Casting single handed would be kinda like throwing a baseball…..try that two-handed (Ha). One handed casting effectively shortens the flex length of the rod whereas two hand casting causes the rod to bend throughout its entire length. It could be argued that both methods each have the
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I’ve found that making measurements of “Power” and “Action Angle” in two separate configurations are advantageous. Taking standard CCS measurements of bare blanks using the deflection of 1/3 of the overall length facilitates categorizing and makes the selection of blanks based on the desired criteria easier…. especially now that some blank makers are providing CCS data. ALSO,
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I’ve been wrapping single foots for tip-tops for several years. Almost all TLSG or LSG 3.5’s. I have also done a couple of Batson 2’s. Never had an issue of any kind and I actually prefer the cleaner looks over a conventional tip-top. The weight advantage is significant also. Lately, I’ve been bending the frame forward slightly and applying a bead of epoxy at the blank tip up to the ring
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Ha! Nope, St Croix SC5
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Had a very weird experience this afternoon. I finished a new rod a few days ago and figured I’d go out for a while and try it out. My hands got so cold, I dropped the rod (and Aldebaran reel) in the water. Never happened to me before. Anyway, I couldn’t believe my eyes…. It was just barely sinking….like it was suspending. I was able to grab it while it was about 6” below the surface. Ne
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bravo sierra
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Invariably when the subject of the Spiral Wrap comes up, most “in the know” rod builders are quick to extol the virtues of the concept. It reminds me of the “Emperors new clothes” (Ha). For some applications such as SW fishing it is indeed advantageous, but for most freshwater applications….not so much. Granted, there is a small amount of torque that can be easily demonstrated with a sp
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Why?
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Bill, I had several rods there at the time and can’t remember which ones for sure. I think I had a St Croix 5C66MHF shortened to 71” OAL (nothing off tip), a Rainshadow RX8+C742 shortened to 69.5” OAL (2.5” off tip) and an IMX C723 shortened to 70” OAL (nothing off tip). All had 7 guides (6 + wrapped on SF for tip). I do have several Rainshadow XMB844’s (shortened to 70”) that I
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I guess it all comes down to what is the optimum number of guides that is adequate to distribute stress and control the line. Although it would depend on the blank, I’ve found that for me, one guide per foot, plus tip is adequate. All my rods are high modulus (SC5’s, RX8+, NFC (HM) & IMX’s) and more than meet my expectations in heavy use applications for Bass fishing. Admittedly, if I w
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Roger, I think you’re going to the extreme by suggesting 3 guides, but “fewer” is sometimes worth considering. If you measure the weight required to deflect the blank 90 degrees and the do the same test by unstringing every other guide you’ll see the different load capabilities in each case. There is of course some loss of load capacity because of the “bowstring effect”, but not as
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Bill, The popular consensus of “convention” (rule-of-thumb) regarding number of guides seems to be one guide per foot, plus one, plus the tip top. Many consider this to be the minimum. Most of my casting rods are less than 6’ and I usually have a total of 7 guides (6 + wrapped-on single foot)….all on top. The line does fall below the blank when the rods are heavily loaded and I’ve nev
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When I prep the TLSG3.5’s, I remove enough material (shorten foot) to get weight below .04 grams. I do not use Forhan locking wraps because I like being able to make final alignment of guides. I haven’t pulled out a guide yet, so until I do, I won’t fix the “problem”. I don’t know if I should admit to using less guides that convention dictates…..I’m not bothered with line touching
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