Have a Batson SUR1204F 10ft. If I was to add just 6or 8 inches to the butt would that change the the power of the rod that much?

In theory it would add a little, but much of that depends on the material used and integrity of the assembly you create. Is your goal to lengthen the rod or to add more power?

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both

It's not a good way to increase power unless you're very well versed in how to select and join the sections. Even then, I'd tell you to just get a more powerful blank.

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can you steer me to some info I can read?

Id be interested in how you plan on extending. There is a St Croix musky rod out there I really like the blank on but it is 8'6 and I want atleast 9'. If the only proper way is to oversleeve and being that I want a split grip, it would put the transition in the exposed area of the grip. If I undersleeve I could make it work but Im not really keen on sacrificing integrity if that be the case. My whole mission was to stay with the lightest possible blank fitting my needs, so how much would a thicker oversleeve or undersleeve be.

I don't think you will change the "power" of the blank. What you will do is extend the lever arm (you will put the "power" in) thereby allowing the blank to flex deeper down. Looked at another way - similar to a see-saw in a park. Extending the butt end puts the reel seat (fulcrum) down lower (lengthening the lever)



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/15/2012 04:23PM by Ken Preston.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

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Maryann,
If you’ll unhide your email address, I’ll send you a chart on the “Effects of Trimming/Extending Blanks” by Cliff Hall. I think it’s also in the photo section somewhere.
I frequently cut from the tip end and gain considerable power (at the expense of slowing the action). If you’re going to extend the blank, which also adds some power and gives faster action, you can also trim an inch or two off the tip to further increase the power. By doing so, you’ll lose some of the speed that you picked up by the extension. I’d strongly suggest measuring the power and action using CCS or RDA procedures before the actual cuts are made.
I trimmed 3 rods recently (one -2” tip, one -1.75 tip and another - 2.5” tip) and saw a power increase of 20%, 12% and 21% respectively. The action (A/A) slowed 3%, 3% and 5% respectively. The amount of increase/decrease is of course dependent on several factors. I should clarify that the increase/decrease in power and action was measured with the blank length staying the same. I.E. The blanks overall lengths were not shortened because I cut the OAL length after I trim the tips (I start with longer blanks than what I need).

Not to thread steal too much here....but do you think the graphite/texalium tubes (that are being sold for handles) would be strong enough for a extending rods? I wouldn't be going over 15-20# class.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Jim -
Can you please send that to me also? I found one brief chart on Rodbuildingtutorials put together by Ray Adams. Is that the same one you're referring to or is there a more detailed chart?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/15/2012 07:24PM by Ken Preston.

Russell: here is hoping it works because i just stretched a 9 ft 2 piece to 10 ft and chnage using a 14 inch one of those tubes.
4 inch overlap all inside the reelseat at 13 inches from the butt.
It took two oversleeves to get the .52 of the original up to 1 inch.
It added extra weight(lots but its in the grip so maybe OK) but i am 99% sure it is strong enough.
Why do it?
I am trying to get a steelhead blank to softly present a live inside of an oyster to sheephead: cannot cast that slime have to drop it on their heads..
If there was an affordable 10 ft 2 piece for that technigue i would have bought it, it has to be lighter than what i did.

Dennis,
This extension is a very simple thing to do.
Just make the total length of your oversleeve such that the end of the oversleeve comes to the top of the reel seat. That way, any portion of an exposed blank would be just exposure of the oversleeve and there would be no visible joint.

Then, give yourself about a 6 inch overlap between the original blank, and the oversleeve blank. Basically select an oversleeve blank that is about the same thickness as the original blank, and you would be sure that you would have sufficient strength.

It might be a bit difficult to come up with the exact oversleeve needed to get a nice match on size and taper. But if you can match the size and taper, you can easily accommodate both your extension and split grip with a minimum weight build up.

Be safe
Roger

Ken,

It’s the same chart that’s on the rodbuilders tutorial site. It’s pretty general, but there’s so many variables that it’d be hard to be more definitive.

Thanks Jim. I was wondering if it had been expanded at all ... As you said - way too many variables.

Stick a scrap piece of blank into the rod butt Tape some guides on and test itr to see if it Performs as you want it

6-8" you can probably stick inside the rod butt as long as you clean and prep the mating sections well so they glue together well Any thing longer may need a oversleve depending on how heavy the use is and fish after

Bill - willierods.com