Dane, Testing doesn’t need to be too complicated and can net reasonably quantifiable results if done methodically. It’s still not very scientific and it is very tedious and time-consuming if done properly. If you’ll “unhide” your address or email me, I’ll send you a guide set-up test I did a while back for “Down-sized Guide/Rapid Choke System” (DG/RCS)(….don’t laugh) vs “NG
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Darrin, Just so you don’t think you’re “preaching to the choir”……..(Ha) After reading your comments, my first thought was “smoke and mirrors”. After re-reading it, I did note that you did reiterate some of the positive characteristics of the MW’s (all-purpose versatility, easy set-up) already mentioned. You said “AT is totally devoted to custom builders”. Not to be cyni
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Jim Ising, I requested, received and read your “white paper” regarding the KR vs. MW systems. Very well written and I’d certainly recommend reading it to anyone contemplating different spinning guide set-ups. I’ve always been a believer that if you want to find out about a product’s “shortcomings”, go to their competitor (Ha). Even “considering the source”, there are always v
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Roger, As you well know this has been beat to death here and other forums and you have asked this same question on numerous occasions. If you can’t discern any difference with smaller/lighter guides such as crisper feel, faster response/recovery and better balance, then I’d have to assume you’re either dexterity challenged or you’re using such poorly designed rods that guide size is irre
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Dane, I’d love to see that done as well, but unless someone could (or would) design and build a mechanical device to replicate a person’s casting motion, it’s not likely that we’ll ever see comparative tests done. Even if there was sufficient capital to fund such an effort, I suspect we wouldn’t see significant differences in their “performance”. At least not enough that when all t
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Don, No contest. I respect your opinion, honesty and integrity, but I also have to consider where your loyalties lie. We can agree to disagree on optimum running guide size. I would agree that the sizes provided would probably give the best “all-purpose” set-up, which would be especially desirable in a factory rod. Other conditions would also make the larger guides preferable, but by the sa
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Keith, To get back to your use of mono with the MWs, I think one advantage they have over the “fast choke” set-up I normally use is that they work well with braid or mono. My “fast choke” set-ups utilize a 12mm butt guide and definitely does NOT like mono. Regardless of line (spinning or casting), I get better performance from smaller/lighter (Fuji 3.5’s) running guides. If I were to u
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Many of us would beg to differ with you, but your opinion is understandable since you’re on Amtak’s Pro Staff. Bottom line is revenue….and we get that. For factory rods, “one size fits all” is a practical approach, but for those of us that wish to optimize rod performance, component selection is important.
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I think they’re comparable to a good NGC set-up. Lots of marketing @#$%& going on as well. My only gripe is that they’re only sold in sets. Not custom rod builder friendly….like Shimano/G Loomis blank unavailability. The MW set-up can be improved in many cases with smaller/lighter running guides. Still worth trying if you don’t mind the cost penalty of buying the complete set and then hav
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Can anyone give us the ring sizes (or I.D.) for the butt guide? Or pictures?
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I started using SF guides for tip-tops several years ago because of the unavailability of small ringed (micro) guide tip-tops. It took a while to get used to the look of them and now I prefer them to conventional framed tip-tops. They are also considerably lighter and I think they look cleaner. First thing that I do is make sure that the very tip of the blank is not rounded. If it is, I sand it
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X2 I agree, the MW runners are too big/heavy.
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Ernest, I emailed you pictures of where the barrel is shortened. Russ, Not sure what kind of comment you want on "comfort". I already said that “comfort trumps weight”. As far as .44 oz. being noticeable……I guess it depends on what kind of rod we’re talking about. On a 6 or 7 ounce rod….probably not. Most of my med-heavy and heavy power bass rods weigh between 2 ½ and
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Over the winter I installed Fuji SK2 split reel seats on 3 new casting rods and also retrofitted them on 8 of my older rods (replacing standard Fuji ECSM’s). Initially their lighter weight was appealing to me, but unfortunately, I’ve since determined that I don’t like the SK2’s (because of the way I grip the rods). It goes without saying that comfort trumps light weight. My other rods hav
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I use alcohol to clean all components with no problems. The WCS checks help reinforce the reel seat assembly and should be epoxied.
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My first priority is always the length from the reel seat to the rod tip, and then I determine the grip length……which of course, dictates the rod length. Since you have a blank of a given length, then it’s a question as to what you (or the customer) considers more important. A compromise maybe in order.
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Joe, Grips are a whole new, interesting subject. I also used pre-formed grips, but I cut them down substantially to suit my preference. As my preference evolved, I noticed the grips began taking on the shape similar to that of my hand in a relaxed state with fingers curled. I noticed that my thumb/forefinger formed a larger “diameter” than my little finger/palm (hope that makes sense). My co
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Roger, I understand what you’re saying and it can be an issue with spinning rods, especially with heavy lures (or even lures that have a lot of water resistance such as crankbaits). It’s an inherent characteristic of spinning rods that they cannot be retrieved easily when under load….such as fighting a fish or retrieving heavy lures. The smaller guides might exacerbate the problem. As you
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Roger, I was probably making long, two-handed casts when you were still in school. Or maybe not. Thanks for the tip though.
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Joe Your 1st paragraph makes perfect sense to me. Making two-handed casts does allow you to maintain the “palming” grip on the reel. Most of my casting is done single handed. My rods are relatively short, so no long levers to overcome by using two hands. Try casting single handed with your reel “palmed” (Ha). I would imagine that the length of the grip behind the reel seat of your rods i
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Bill, Don't yell, I have sensitive ears.
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Roger, All of my rods with the split Castaways work well for me because of the grip that I use (again, see my reply to Joe). Steve, Good points. I have some of the ECSM’s (as well as 1 Minima to evaluate) on order. I liked splitting the Castaways for some of the same reasons you state, but since they seem to be no longer available, gotta try something different. I just finished splitting
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Bill, I agree, but I thought I said that I find them comfortable (except for the SK2). I'm glad that you and Roger are in agreement as to split grip “shortcomings”. I just don't care. I was asking for Split Grip” suggestions, not looking for approval or disapproval of the configuration.
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Roger, Simple answer: Because 2 grams is of great concern to me. It’s actually more like 11 grams (over .38 oz.), which to me is significant. I also find them comfortable (except for the SK2). I appreciate the reason that you don’t like them. I just don’t care. And, I said that I hate that particular split grip (SK2). I think most people that like split grips would like it, especially if
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Ricky, The Phenix looks pretty heavy to me. Joe, I have some ECSM’s on order, because as you say, no arbors. I think the disadvantage is the excess material in the bore as opposed to the TCSM, in which the arbor (being much lighter) takes up the same space with less mass. Admittedly, I do obsess about weight (Ha). All my bass rods weigh less than 3 oz. I have an old TCSM that I have split
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Jim, I'm using CASTING rods, need trigger (SK2 trigger too small for me).
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I love split grips, but I’ve used Fuji Sk2 split grip reel seats on my last 9 (personal) casting rods and hate them. Thought they’d grow on me once I got used to them, but NOT. Maybe it’s the way that I hold the rod, being left handed. In the past I’ve split Castaway’s and I don’t believe they're available anymore. I’m thinking of splitting ECSM’s (or TCSM’s) or giving Minimaâ€
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Ben, I started using single foot guides for tip-tops before standard small ringed tip tops were available. Now I wouldn’t use anything else. They’re significantly lighter and I like their clean looks. Wrapping them takes a bit of getting used to, but it’s not difficult. I’ve never had a problem of any kind. If you’ll email me, I’ll send you picture.
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No big deal to cut any 6’6” blank to the desired length. Just depends on the Power and Action he’s looking for. Most of my rods finish at around 70” or less. I usually start with 6 1/2’ blanks but I also have used 7’s. I trim mostly from the butt end, but often trim the tips to get the Action/Power I’m after. Shortening a blank allows a lot of Power and Action adjustments/options.
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Several years ago, before tip tops with large tube sizes became available, I started wrapping on a running guide for tip tops and have learned to love the clean look. They hold up fine and I’ve never had an issue. They are also considerably lighter. It takes a bit of practice to get them right, but worth the trouble.
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