Thanks Tom, not sure how my analytical abilites can be understood without knowing my background but maybe someone here with the necessary experience can interpret what the data below means assuming my ability to measure accurately is not in question: Point 1 - 12" 30* AA, 130 pennies Point 2 - 24" 36* AA, 82 pennies Point 3 - 36" 41* AA, 82 pennies Point 4 - 48&q
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I don't see why I have to measure 100 rods thru the Big Picture process in order to define the characteristics for one particular rod. I realize if 20 different people measured the same rod, you would see some variation in their measurements but I would think they could all decyfer whether it's was a 3wt or 12wt. I would think one rod's stand alone data should be able to be interpretted into
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Bill Hanneman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you don't want to wait to try it on a fish, why > not tie a big rock to the end of your line and see > how the rod bends as you try to lift the rock? > Weigh the rock and you should be able to estimate > PR. Good luck. Thanks for the tip - I may be some dumb but I'm not plumb dumb.
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > How many times I have read posts Go To Your Local > fishing store and try different lines Based on this paragraph from Dr Hanneman: "The power of commercial fly rods and blanks is designated relative to AFTMALine Numbers which increase directly with the weight of the lines. So too does the forc
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Thanks Tom, but if my data doesn't immediately indicate "something" to me without having to measure 100 rods for comparison, then I'm disappointed. By seeing the "ERN" values start to increase exponentially towards the butt section, I thought it would have some understandable laymen's meaning to it - without having to deduce anything other than what I thought was obvious. T
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Bill Hanneman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > To be technical, your data does not indicate the > upper section will load anything. Rather, it > indicates the upper section CAN BE “loaded” by > a mass equivalent to the weight (280 grains) of 30 > feet of a No.10 line. Thank you very much Bill for the special response to my earlier thre
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Thanks Eugene for the reply. And to the others as well.
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David - what MHX blanks did you build? I almost tried one recently, thanks
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If you look at the Standard Load Tutoral from Angler's Resourse, sponsor on the left, you'll see exactly how I set up my spiral wraps. I set the upper guides first and use the last guide as my first 180. I string two guides behind the first 180, set the blank in a good flex and set them where ever the line tells them they need to be. I incorporate the bumper "into" the guide placement i
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Still waiting for spring to show so yesterday I decided to check a 10wt I bought awhile back and see what it indicates for The Big Picture. I used my spotting scope tripod and a benchrest tripod, a short level with the AA card taped on it, and the wifes hardwood kitchen floor. I made a jig like the illustration and kept everything level and the data seems like - if I can get the terminology right
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What if you moved the reel seat and front split portion up a bit? No increase/decrease of weight, just distributed differently.
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You could try 27x - (I'm sorry, I just couldn't refuse that one).
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No problem Russ, I'm not sur what you mean by you being set up for my entertainment but the best thing about building your own rods is you get to build them the way you. I'm not sure using the reel upsweep is an older method as it is highlighted more in their advertising than it was in the past. I've probably comitted blasphemy recently - I was going to build a new 10wt for salmon fishing thi
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > With the chock guide on take the spool off the > reel Try a streight edge on the spindle that held > the spool on and it should go to the same spot ??? Now that makes sense, thanks.
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Russell, I'm sorry that you thought this was my first rodeo. My oldest RodMaker magazine is Volume 3 - Number 4 from January 2000 with the New Concept Guide System article. This 12 year old article seems just the oposite of the new 27X method, Fuji using the spool spindle's upsweep to determine the choke placement makes more sense than 27x to me. If you get a chance to read this article, it is q
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Russell Brunt Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You seem interested in hard numbers. I have no > such rod but I have a 7 foot spinning rod with an > old school large diameter reel. Let me go > measure. From the tip down I have 3.75" (8 guide > size), another 3.75" down (8), 4.125" (10), 4.625" > (12), 5.375" (12),
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Thanks for the great input Russell. So if the reel spool is 18.68" from the butt end, the butt guide ought to be placed ahead of it somewhere in the 20" "vacinity". That occupies 38.68", and with the choke at 7", that's 45.68" so on an 84" rod, we have 38.32" between the choke and butt guide. If you are going to use 8 guides, there's 5 guides availabl
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Tim Collins Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > So how many guides would you have between the > choke and the reel? Russell said - FWIW....statements do get made like"there should be no need for more than two or three reduction guides"....or "there is no need for more than three, maybe four, different size guides". I've always tho
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So how many guides would you have between the choke and the reel - 5 or 6 if using the length plus 1? Seems like this would be like the old "cone of flight" method found at K-Mart that the "concept" method was suppose to eliminate?
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Richard, send me a PM - your's is hidden.
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I've found on fly rods if I add an extra cork ring or two, and use a downlocking real seat, I can get most any length to balance. On spinning rods I use a reversed Fuji grip as a fore grip (sometimes called a Michigan grip) and hold the rod with the reel foot further back between my fingers. I haven't figured out how to balance a baitcaster other than crowd my hand up underneath the reel. But as
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Looks like a long winter and I'm already bored so I may try to set up a jig to measure the Big Picture. I think I understand the procedure except for the chart used in the illustration. Is that regular graph paper that's used or can I just pick an arbitrary scale of my own that looks close? Thanks.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I wrote about doing this 10 years ago in one of my > earlier articles on the NGC. With the lack of > sufficient height guides available at that time, > it allowed the concept to be pursued without > having the butt guide a tremendous distance from > the spool face. I suspect somebody at Fuji read
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I've never seen the need to use more than two coats but then again I apply a bit more than needed initially but then I use an alcohol lamp and warm up the finish and then rotate, wick off the bottom, warm, rotate, wick off the bottom, and they wind up looking great for a hack rod builder such as myself.
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I'm a few miles south of the Meechigan Big House . . .
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"Good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment". Will Rogers
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Tim Collins Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- . Is there an > expert here with a spreadsheet for various > formulas and lengths specically for salmon and > steelhead? willy - I've googled hundreds of articles and seen plenty of youtube videos. I just received a DVD on how to make furled leaders but the dimensions of the layout board will provide a 60
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Thanks Ron but I was looking to build my own, not buy them. Just need a little info on thread sizes and lengths specific to throwing streamers and leech patterns for salmon with a 10wt.
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I'm thinking I want to add building furled leaders in addition to my rod building hobby. Is there an expert here with a spreadsheet for various formulas and lengths specically for salmon and steelhead? Thanks.
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As I review this segment again, either some new stuff has been added or I missed alot when I first read it. As I try to understand the WL to IP formula, 3.33 is the multipiler used to figure fly line load. In my case, 3.33 (135) - 10 = 440 grains. In figure 3 I can plot my point and it looks like 440 would equal (30' I assume) a bit under 13.5 weight line. So I'm a bit confused in a previous pos
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