Bruce, When I started turning I purchased a 1700 RPM dry bench grinder, from Woodcraft. It came with one 60 grit wheel and one 120 grit wheel (I only use the 120 grit wheel). I quickly learned that attaining a nice grind freehand wasn't working out for me. So I researched jigs designed to hold the various rough gouges, spindle gouges, parting tools, etc. at the angle necessary to achieve a ni
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Good morning, Guide wrapping thread is not the same as fly tying thread. In some cases fly tying thread is treated with wax, which should be avoided. Initially, you're probably better off using thread made and sold for rod wrapping. Then, explore other options later. Jeff Shafer
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It appears that he obtained some of Bob's CCS data, I spotted a few rods I had posted information for. Jeff
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The product I'm referring to is their EX-74 formulation, improved over EX-88 in that it is said to be more UV resistant. When I inquired about obtaining a sample of EX-74 the company rep pointed me in the direction of EasyCast. She suggested I read the MSDS documents for the two products. They're identical. I'm not endorsing this product for guide wraps, as I have not used it as a guide wra
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Good thing I never used it on a rod. Jeff
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Hello Mike, Your, and Ken's, reviews remind me of Envirotex-Lite casting epoxy. Sold into industry in gallon quantities, the same product (as per MSDS documents) is sold in smaller quantities (8oz kid for ~$10) as a casting epoxy. It's called EasyCast, sold by arts and crafts stores. My calls to Envirotex a couple of years led to the agent leading me to EasyCast when I inquired about E-Lite
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Mike, I'd be curious to hear whether that tool can be used to cut the inlets for various embedded fly reel seat hoods. Each manufacturer's hood has its own unique diameter so maybe this tool can be set to an infinite number of diameter settings. I realize that it wouldn't remove the cork, but once the OD is cut, an abrasive wheel on a Dremmel could remove the center. Jeff Shafer Never
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I used the Grizzly hobby lathe for a number of years before buying a mini-lathe. Rather than re-type responses I provided to this question in the past, I have attached a search of this site where Grizzly was discussed. I hope the information is helpful. Jeff
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Chad, Check the wood finishing techniques published over on Rodbuilders Library. A variety of methods are presented. Some quick hit techniques, some are longer processes. Jeff
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I lay the blank on the carpet and use the edge of a three sided file to gradually file through the blank as I roll it on the carpet. Keeps dust to a minumum and the dust doesn't get airborne. Jeff
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A couple of years ago I removed snake guides that had been coated with Permagloss, then Epoxy. Removing the finish was difficult. I ended up using a dull single edge razor, scraping at a 90 degree angle. The paint came off with the Permagloss but I was able to avoid damaging the graphite. Fortunately, I was able to mount same sized snakes and extended my wraps a bit to cover up the areas lack
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I've been using Permatex "Fast Orange" hand cleaner, usually found in the automotive department. Put some in the palm of your hand and rub the grip lengthwise. Use caution if you have thread epoxy just forward of the grip, as Fast Orange has pumice in the formula. Fast Orange might scuff the epoxy coat. Jeff
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Thanks Rick!
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If anyone has an ERN for the MHX 904-4 blank I'd love to hear it. I'm also interested in the ERN's for the three weight blanks if anyone has experience with them.. Thanks, Jeff
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Lane, Since you're already using Tru-oil for your first few coats, try wet sanding on the lathe using 600 grit wet/dry paper and Tru-oil. The slurry created by the wet sanding will help fill the pores. Allow to dry thoroughly between coats so that wet subsequent sandings don't pull the pore filler from the pores. After pore filling, allow to dry thoroughly again then dry sand to restore the
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Hello Chad, There are quite a few best finishes out there, and in addition quite a few best finish application methods - depending upon who you speak with. Some are more, and some less, time consuming. I'm partial to hand rubbed applications of a fine gunstock oil-urethane blend. Others will chime in with finishes and methods they feel work best for them. Jeff Shafer
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Some prefer to use stabilized wood for reel seats and grips. Most of my reel seat inserts are not stabilized, however I do apply a protective finish to all of my reel seat inserts. Jeff
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I think I bonded up the entire bottom end of a spin rod in one step back in 1987. Jeff
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I'm just saying that I would rather bond the reel seat together with all reel seat components aligned, hoods and rings mounted in the right direction, etc.. Then mount the completed reel seat in a separate step. Jeff
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I don't have Phil's confidence, so I ream the insert to fit the butt section then bond the insert into the reel seat hardware. This allows me to take care to align the physical characteristics of the insert (I only use wood) and ensure that epoxy isn't seeping out anywhere. After the reel seat has cured I mount it onto the rod blank and only have one alignment to worry about.. Jeff
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Personally John, I have never been a fan of epoxy over a winding check. Vinyl or rubber winding checks are very likely to flex some during the life of the rod. That means that a void will appear under the thread epoxy as the epoxy separates from the winding check. Jeff Shafer
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Tony, Last Winter I boiled off about a half dozen nickel silver fly rod reel seats so I could replace the wooden inserts with my own work. The upper hoods were all bonded into the cork handle. In all cases the cork stood up to the boiling water and the hoods came free. In one case the cork got a little flimsy but wasn't too misshapen. I think you'd want to concentrate on pulling the hook str
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Justin, Pay close attention to what Ellis mentioned above. Not all drills will fit the collar on the headstock. I have a Sears drill that is fractionally too small to tighten down well in the headstock, and has a chuck that is fractionally too large in diameter to fit through the collar. So when I used it I had to remove the chuck each time and then partially thread the chuck back onto the dr
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To Tim's original question: I have done some experimentation with short, light line fly rods for use on a local creek. It's quite grown over and crosses under a couple of low road and train bridges. In these tunnel-like situations, and when I need a tight loop to cast up under the bridges, I like a fast action. I also find the fast rod is better for quickly lifting the line off the surface to
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I understand Tom, I believe I built this rod before setting up to use the CCS. The problem, as outlined in a recent topic, is that you don't know whether all "5" weights in any particular model will rate above seven. I'm considering building another RX8+, and will likely seek a vendor that wouldn't mind checking the ERN for me. Jeff
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Another blank to consider if you're willing to spend $250+ is the Rainshadow RX8+. It's a pleasure to fish, and the ferrules are second to none (IMHO). The one I build in that length and line weight handles a DT5 pretty well, though I wish the ERN was a little lower. My blank had an ERN of 7.03 so it performs best at 30' and beyond. Jeff
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I've been spining golf club shafts for twenty years. There may be no relationship between spine alignment and fishing rod performance, but don't tell a PGA pro that there is no relationship between spine alignment and golf club performance.
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Larry, If you're selling that particular line weight into a specific market (steelhead/salmon?) and like how the blank performs, consider requesting that your supplier CCS a few blanks and ship you three in the range you would find acceptable. This means you end up carrying inventory, but would allow you to offer the performance characteristics you are touting in your rods. Jeff
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Larry, I haven't had the opportunity to CCS matching blanks in the quantities you have. But I've tested enough individual fly blanks to know that I will never build a fly rod without first knowing the ERN/AA. Jeff
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Too large - put it over a thread wrap. Too small - save it for a smaller rod and put it over a thread wrap.
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