Eliseu, the number of applications will vary depending on factors like type of finish, amount applied, etc.. There is no standard number. I apply several very thin coats where some builders prefer fewer and slightly heavier applications. You should consider practicing on a scrap piece of rod blank until you have determined what works best for you and the type of finish that works best for you.
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I really like the REC line of nickel silver fly rod skeletons, the ones requiring round inserts. I use them on rods down to four weight, and have encouraged REC to design similar styles in smaller diameters - to no avail unfortunately as I believe they would fill an open market niche. Jeff
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Key takeaway from this is that regardless of the application speed, or method, applying too much epoxy will likely result in an uneven surface. The excess epoxy simply has nowhere to go so it sags in places while the rod is turning/curing. Jeff
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My 3/4" to 1+" blanks are first bored through with a 3/8" drill bit, on the lathe. Then the wood blank is mounted on a mandrel for turning to hardware specific dimensions. Jeff
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In addition to Tom's comment about using brad point bits, the length of your brad point bit may be contributing to the problem. I drill on my lathe and use two different 3/8" bits. One is around 5" and one is around 10". The 10" bit is deeply fluted which seems to make it more flexible, causing it to wander. So I start my boring with the 5" bit, then complete it with
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Funny this should come up, a few Saturdays ago I looped through In A Gadda Da Vida five times in a row..... Ablum version of course. Jeff
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I'm not here to debate whether current practices are fair or unfair. Each vendor will decide their practice. I'm simply stating that some creativity may actually result in a change in customers' perceptions. And those perceptions can be important.
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Not trying to prolong the shipping charge debate, but I feel a solution is possible. Feel free to delete or lock if this topic is now off limits - I won't be offended. The vast majority of rod builders aren’t high volume builders, so they’re also not high volume component buyers. They don’t buy extras of this or that because there is a likelihood the components will not be put to use. So if
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I've turned reel seat inserts out of curly hickory and like the look more than curly maple. Jeff
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So lots of options available to you Keith - good luck with your project. “The greatest barrier to discovery isn’t ignorance, it’s the illusion of knowledge.” ~Daniel J. Boorstin
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Application of oil will mimic the look of epoxy.
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Use five minutes to wrap thread onto one of your existing fishing rods, around one half inch. Then apply olive oil or vegetable oil to the wrap. The tread will be slightly lighter than when coated with thread epoxy. Undo the wrap and clean oil residue.
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Is there a particular hardware you want to fit?
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I'm in the same camp as Mark Crouse when it comes to epoxy applications. Generally, I apply 3-4 thin coats of high build epoxy with the first coat just saturating the threads adequately and driving air out of the tunnels. I don't apply color preserver to my thread work. Experienced builders may have specific talent with their brand of epoxy, but I think beginners too often err on the heavy si
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I couldn't help but throw some humor into this discussion: Jeff
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Yes Chester, please email me at penzzz@msn.com so I can capture your email address. Jeff
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Lam, As you read other discussions on achieving a level surface, you'll find that if your finish is not leveling it's likely caused by applying too much finish with each application - not the brand or viscosity of your finish. For me thinner applications, even with high build epoxy, result in a level surface. Adding a feather inlay complicates things a bit because you may have feathers on on
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I agree with Phil that heat will be required to break the bond, especially since you'll want to reuse the butt cap. Like Phil I have also used boiling water to remove entire reel seats bonded in place with Rod Bond. What I found recently though is that while standard Rod Bond can be broken with heat (boiling water) removal of a seat bonded with Quik Bond was more difficult. In this case I made
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Gaston, Today I posted a picture demonstrating how I mount an upper section of a rod onto my home made dryer. Something like this may be helpful. Jeff
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Larry, Polymerized oils like Tru-Oil, Pro Custom Oil and Permalyn take some time to cure thoroughly. I like to allow woods treated with PCO to cure for a month or more before using. Jeff
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A hair dryer is capable of exceeding the temperature a blank will tolerate. Don't ask how I know.....
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I've been down the high build vs lite formula road a few times. In my experience lite formulas tend to migrate to the centers of my wraps as gravity does its thing. This seems to occur no matter how little epoxy I apply. I've found that my wrap finishes end up more level using high build formulas. It is possible to apply three coats of high build epoxy and obtain a thin, delicate looking finish
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No problem, it went to Junk and I deleted it.
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My homemade dryer has two motors side by side. One side uses a cup to hold the butt section of the rod. The other side has a glue stick that I shaved to a taper which is inserted into the female ferrule. I'd tried tapered dowels but the glue stick wedged into the ferrule better and because the glue stick flexes it doesn't work it's way out of the ferrule when the rod is turning. Jeff
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Sorry Billy, just noticed your post. I'm referring to the application just applied, and a fisheye that is obviously forming while the epoxy is still flowing. I scratch the inside of the forming crater and if successful the soft epoxy flows back into the void. Jeff
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On occasion I've seen a fisheye forming immediately following epoxy application over a previous coat of epoxy. What I do is take a fly tying bodkin (essentially a needle point) and use the point to scratch the area in the center of the fisheye. The still wet epoxy then flows back into the crater. Jeff Whitehall, PA
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No wax needed if you clamp the rings then withdraw the mandrel.
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Mick, just measured the O.D. of a U-20 hood at .769. Hope this helps. Jeff
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Mick, I Googled and found a contribution I made on this subject on Rodbuildingforum. In the post I reference that my barrel trimmer is .745 and that for cork the fit was good with U-20/U-24. I'll check when I get home this evening, but in the mean time someone else may chime in with measurements. Are you fitting into cork or wood? Jeff
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Since I'm in work and unable to verify my measurements (though I'm 99% sure) I'd rather go home and measure before I give you advice that costs you. Jeff
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