Thanks for the feedback Stan, I'm surprised that few have tried CA. Jeff
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Thanks Terry, That's why I asked, hoping those who have been using CA for years will add to the thread. I'm not as optimistic about performing touchups on CA reel seat inserts. Once applied, sanded, polished and bonded into a nice set of nickel silver hardware I'm not sure I'd be able to chuck it into the lathe for re-polishing. Tom, I didn't want to get into a discussion about alternatives
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A few days ago there was a brief thread about durability of CA on wood and cork rod components. The thread died out with few CA users commenting about their experiences. I installed a few CA finished reel seat inserts on personal rods this winter so haven't used them on stream yet. While researching various finishes I've been using on inserts one individual I've been in touch with commented ab
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Regarding the use of CA as a finish on wood, there are as many techniques as there are reel seat, pen and game call turners. I know, I’ve tried many techniques. Those who achieve their desired appearance have settled in on a technique that works well for them. CA for me was problematic anytime moisture was involved. Yes, moisture is necessary for CA to cure. Think about this - some of
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Sorry to hear the bad news Carrington. Yesterday I shattered a Claro Walnut insert that had ten light coats of CA applied - you guessed it, glued to the mandrel...... Jeff
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John, I'm with Billy on this one. For cork fly rod grips, some with embedded composite rings, I've only ever used 60 grit (cheap imported bargain brand) to get through the excess adhesive and do initial shaping. From there I use progressively finer grits in better quality paper. I cut a piece of sandpaper lengthwise down the middle, then tri-fold that. The paper is looped around the turnin
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David, I agree with the comments above that it is likely that you applied too much finish. Take the advice about wicking off excess epoxy that collects on the bottom of the wraps when the rod is stationary. My suggestion is that for one rod, or for some test wraps, use periodic hand turns to let the epoxy cure. The application of too much epoxy and a rotating dryer will usually result in a
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The wood pictured is a very dense wood, and after final wood sanding had no pores to speak of. I don't have sanding sealer on hand but on a few occasions have used CA and sanding dust to seal pores or voids on the surface.
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Hello Jeffrey, If you wouldn't mind, I'd like to hear more about your use of Permalyn. Please email me at PENZZZ@msn.com. Thanks, Jeff
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Scotty, Some mini-lathes do not have a lot of distance between centers. You didn't mention whether you had any budget constraints, but the Jet model 1220 has 20" between centers which may allow you to use the lathe for rod building purposes without adding an extension bid. The 1220 also has a 3/4hp motor. Jeff
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Revised
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The solution is to eliminate the tag altogether. Try putting your loop into the wrap a few wraps sooner than normal. Then wrap to your ending point, clip the wrap thread as usual and insert into the loop. Pull the loop slowly as if you were going to pull the tag end all the way through and under the wraps but stop when the loop is just starting to go under the wraps. At this point pull the wr
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My technique when using metal winding checks (which usually taper away from the cork) is to use a check that is one to two thread thickness's larger than the blank diameter. The first wrap is against the cork and is wound out toward the butt wrap. The second layer wrap is only the length of the winding check. This technique creates a gap at the edge of the winding check. I don't use color pre
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Several of us could type long answers to your post. However, you will learn a lot about Madeira thread very quickly by using the search feature here on the board. Madeira, and the results you attained, have been written about quite a bit on RBO.
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If your rod case will accommodate the extra three inches, why not allow the butt section piece be three inches longer than the other pieces? That way you won't lose what may be a valuable three inches of mending length.
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I am writing to thank everyone for the information. The reel feet make contact with the nickel silver reel seat at three points, the threaded barrel and the upper and lower hoods. To try to eliminate the contact I removed the feet from the real and brushed on a few light coats of Max Seal. Max Seal is water based polyurethane and dries hard and clear. The reel won't see use for several months
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Duplicate Post Removed
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Thanks Raymond, I'll send some photos of how to use a hand clamp to glue cork rings, if you don't mind creating the PDF. Jeff Shafer
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I don't use Permagloss on a regular basis but ordered a small bottle recently. I'm considering driling a hole in a Testors lid, inserting an eye screw, and placing that lid on the Permagloss bottle. I'd wrap the base of the lid with electrical tape to help seal the lid. Similar to the sealed can concept. I plan to store the glass bottle with the lid down. Thoughts? Jeff
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Rob, Check your email, I mailed a sequence of photos of a technique I use. Jeff
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I boiled off four fly rod reel seats over the last week or so. Be careful, one of mine was somewhat stubborn and I let it boil a long time. While cleaning up the butt section of the blank I noticed that it deflected a millimeter or so to the side. It was a low end blank that I had built on so I wasn’t concerned enough to not go ahead with the re-install of a reel seat. Before re-instal
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I use nickel silver reel seat hardware on my fly rods, and have been noticing what appears to be a reaction between the nickel threaded barrel and the aluminum feet on my fly reels. A yellowish white, powdery residue is forming on the nickel barrel where the foot of my reel lays on the barrel. The residue is pretty stubborn when I try to remove it, especially between the fine threads. Has an
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Thanks Roger, I'll try heat and multiple coats. Jeff
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Thanks Terry and everyone else, It isn't so much technique I'm interested in. The finished product after application and shaping looks great. I'm most interested in learning when CA, used as a wood finish, stops shrinking. The irregularities I'm now seeing seem to result from the finish contracting with time, not from the wood fibers shifting (several of the inserts were made with stabilized
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Thanks everyone, Rich, I use both. First I sand with progressively finer sandpaper (to 2000 grit) or micromesh, then successively finer auto polishes. Very fine scratches may still remain. Jeff
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Over the past six months I have used CA as a finish on some wood reel seat inserts. I generally build the CA to beyond my desired final diameter, wait a few days, and wet sand it down to the diameter required by the skeleton hardware. This process results in a very level finish with no wood grain depressions. Today when I looked at a few of the inserts I noticed that the CA appeared to have
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I'm always curious about finishes like this. May be useful as a wood finish on reel seat inserts. If it hardens well, and can be polished, apply to a slowly turning wood insert and allow to harden. Then put on a lathe and sand level, and then polish to a luster. Do you know if the material retains crystal clarity, or is it likely to yellow? Jeff
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Bill touched on something that I've been working with, casting resins. EasyCast by Envirotex provides a tough, glossy finish. I turn the wood past the desired target dimension, build up two coats of EasyCast (only around eight hours between coats while turning on my dryer). Then sand down to target dimension using progressively finer paper, then auto polish. Jeff
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Lance, to an inexperienced woodworker like myself, laquer seems to be a generic term. Can you elaborate, maybe provide a name brand? Thanks, Jeff
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Thanks everyone, The rod owner has agreed to keeping the rod at full length. Jeff
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