If you don't need to cast at typical surf rod distances, there may be even more options in the shorter rods. But then you'll be taking more leverage from the fish and it may not be as much fun fighting them.
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Thanks Tom & John... that's reassuring that I've been correct on that. Not sure what had put the doubts in my head.
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Col: Only been a year for me, but I can already tell you are 100% correct...still fighting to live with it...because I don't want to turn into something my son wouldn't want me to be. So, we just keep building rods and fishing as much as we can.
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No doubt, all who have played with the Common Sense System have noticed that the weight on the ends of the longer, less-stiff rods, cause them to bend away from the horizontal before you ever add pennies. Based on the premise that deflecting a rod 1/3 of the length would properly load it (for an average caster performing an average distance cast); I have been taking into account and including t
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Col: Lost my son a little over a year ago now...I think I know how you feel...no apology necessary for me.
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FYI: WWW.BNMPOLES.COM makes a bunch of finished rods...10 to 20 ft., $10 to $26 bucks. Fiberglass or graphite. Look under "Telescoping" tab. BassProShops sells them. I'm certain you could find a Chinese supplier for these dirt cheap blanks. Or buy one of those and fancy it up. My grandson & I got a couple just to try the Tenkara thing out. Hung a piece of flyline and leader on the
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I have a couple of very nice, and very old, custom made Uslan fiberglass rods. Could they have been made by the same Nathanial Uslan of Spring Valley, NY? I didn't think we were building on fiberglass that long ago were we?
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I never scuff also, along with the reasoning stated by others here, scuffing, even with scotch-brite increases the risk of introducing grit, dust, etc....and creates very tiny lines on the surface that could facilitate the formation of tiny bubbles. I think I remember reading somewhere that as long as your using the same epoxy, a second coat melds in seamlessly with the first....but I can't fin
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definitely would go with at least 6' 6" for small trout ... cant build enough of the Batson Forecast RX6 4 pieces' ...work great with brookies up in the canyons and wont cost you your first-born either.
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OK...since someone already guessed Atlantic City..I'm changing my vote to Branson, Missouri!!!!!
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John Samuels....Atlantic City
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Like Terry, I use a good forstner bit...make up some kind of jig to hold it plumb in a drill press and feed slow.....works very nice. I haven't figured out a good way to relieve the inside lip of the cork for those front shoes on seats that disappear in the cork...got lucky a couple times with a dremel and used cork filler on one I screwed up. They turned out OK...but, I'm just avoiding those
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I managed to pick up an 8wt, 4pc. Quickline also....I have to admit I was surprised at how impressive this blank feels...fast overall and dampens well in the tip. I personally don't care for the gloss black finish, but it is very well done, and goes well with any thread color you can think of. This one could have potential....
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Wonderful news...congratulations again Tom...Lou, I spent three times more this year also, but had three times more fun...not too many places this side of Vegas you can say that about.
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"people go overboard with sensitivity". The Col could not have said it better. Since the degree of sensitivity is directly related to the density of the object transmitting the vibration waves. In the case of fishing, this is the line and the rod. It's interesting to note that fiberglass has a higher density than graphite, so many fiberglass rods could be more "sensitive' than grap
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Count me in...
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Nate: Don't get too worried about it...I buy enough components every year at the EXPO to build several "saltwater" fly rods (which is my specialty) without pre-ordering anything. TFO TiCRX, HMX & Batson RX8 are all good for the money... I personally like the RX8 (HMX & RX8 usually available at the show). Tips: 1.A 9ft-8wt is a great all-around configuration for salt. 2. The CCS
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Faster action rods may actually help maintain tension and "hook set" on fish that shake their heads rapidly, via the better dampening or "recovery rate". But at the end of the day, I believe that if youv'e chosen the correct leader for the species, and tied a good knot, then it is mostly up to the fish and how aggresively he "bit" the hook. It seems to me that all
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If users are allowing their rods to suffer "impact-type abuse", then they're probably breaking more blanks than loosing rings. Need to do a better job of determining/matching the blank/hardware to what kind of service the rod is exposed to.
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Must agree...Don't have a lot of trouble with bubbles but when I do...I just wave a cigarette lighter about 2-4 inches away; not directly underneath, and all bubbles disappear. Works every time. I've got the fancy metal, and the plastic squeeze w/ blow tube alcohol torches. They don't do any better. I might try the hair dryer next.
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I've built a couple very light weight, 2 wt., 4 piece pack rods, for the exact same purpose, here in the mountains of VA last year. A few things considered by me were. a. The 2wt blanks available for the more reasonable price, could also handle 3wt line easily, so I stayed with 2wt. b. Natives normally call for shorter, delicately placed casts. I stayed with light wire, but heavier guides mi
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Thanks guys! I can't find Vol 6 #1, and I've heard the embossing stylus makes perfect dots...but i think I'm steady-handed enough to try Kevin's method. I really like stuff easy.
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Just wondering if you guys might share some of your favorite techniques or preferences?
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If I were you, I might first just try stepping up to a 7 or 8wt rod that is more in line with the 12-15 lb tippet you have to use. You'd then have a little more power to strip-line them and get um up a few feet away from the snags, before you put um on the reel. If they're 2-6 lb Trout, they'll still be plenty fun on the bigger rod.
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Steve: For years, I would swear I felt the "bite" too. If your fishing in 60 ft of water that line couldn't have had much slack in it. It doesn't take much for the fish's hit to create enough tension on the line for you to feel the "pull". It doesn't have to make the rod tip move, just carry the energy and vibrations of the line straightening out up close enough to the surfac
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You bass guys might want to re-think spending extra money on a blank just for sensitivity's sake. Gary may be correct when saying "Sensitivity is stiffness to weight ratio" when referring to the rod only. A higher ratio indicates a more dense material, and sensitivity is a function of density. But since the mono and synthetic braided lines you use are about the same density as water, if
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I used single foot wires on my last three 8wt. saltwater rods. They're working out just great. Although I do use the Forhan locking wraps for insurance, I don't think any would pull out if wrapped properly and ensure you "push" the epoxy in the "tunnel" when finishing. I'm not planning on going back to doubles.
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