Just because the butt measurement and the tip measurement are close or even match, you can't make assumptions as to the blank's characteristics. The taper may narrow at a different location along the blank; the wall thickness may vary, etc. There are other variables at play that would preclude a correct assumption. I would search available blanks from from manufacturer's stocks based upon the fut
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How could a rod be perfectly level if it has a taper? Unless, of course someone went through the trouble of fabricating stands that match the taper -LOL.
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Sorry guys, the dia. is 7cm.
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Wine, lime green, white. Wild enough?
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Thanks. I am not using very expensive guides so it should not be a problem.
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I am considering either 30lb mono with a 60lb shock leader or 50lb braid with the same 60lb shock leader. The rod is rated for 2-6 oz. hence the 60lb leader. If it turns out the rod is over or underrated, I will change the line/leader to suit. I don't like the stretch of mono when trying to set the hook with 100 yds of line out. If mono stretches up to 25%, then that's a lot of line to take up wi
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OK, I began laying out the guides to the 13' surf rod I am rebuilding using NGC. The reel spool face dia. is 7 mm with the 27x distance being 7'3" and on the ferrule section of the second rod section (3 piece rod). The intersect guides that fit were 50, 25, 16 and the choker is a 10. I tried the 40 but it seemed too far away from the reel. I ran short of running guides, so I ordered a few ex
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I read it and will try it. Thanks.
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I tried the spray on. I found it much easier to apply a consistent thickness by wiping. As long as once you wipe once, you leave it alone. If you find that the first coat left some bare spots, just add another coat.
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I plan on a two layer wrap, so I will probably tie a short anchor wrap, then cut the thread and feather and glue it down with CP. The remainder of the first layer of wrap will butt against the anchor wrap. This joing will be covered by the overwrap/hook keeper wrap. My concern is accidentally releasing tension on the wrapping thread (happened on another rod). I have seen descriptions of using CP
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I just stripped an old surf rod that had EVA grips and a corroded metal reel seat. I made small slices near the beginning of the grips and basically just peeled them off. Then I used a cutoff wheel to cut (carefully) a slot along the length of the reel seat. After that I inserted a large screwdriver in the slot and twisted. The metal seat fractured and I was able to peel it away in four pieces.
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What do you all do to anchor the cross wrap? Do you begin wrapping up from the grip/check or down from the wrap?
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After surface prep (varies according to the rod condition) i insert a wood dowel in each end of a section (except the tip where I leave the finish off the first inch), clean the blank thoroughly and apply spar urethane with an old t-shirt wiping it along the length. After it dries (2-3 days) I rub it lightly with 0 and then 00 steel wool and clean and apply again. This is done for 3-4 coats. If y
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Thanks. I was considering setting it up for the larger reel.
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I read a fair amount of info regarding the NGC system of guide layout and understand that when the empirical data was analyzed the intersect guide ended up being between 26x and 29x the diameter of the spool face. If I am laying out a rod, how would I account for the desire to switch reels with different line weights or different line capacities, ie different spool diameters? One of my reels
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I also stopped pulling the tag end all the way through. I was cutting too many wraps and leaving too many bumps. Much easier this way.
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Handle came out good. The shrink is very tight. I am adding trim wraps at the transitions between the grip and shrink, shrink and seat and shrink and butt cap. The trim is to be yellow nylon mason's layout string with size D green (blank is green/gray) thread laid over the transitions between strings. I have two coats of spar urethan over the strings and will be overlaying the green soon.
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I'm far from an expert but I'll throw my two cents in. I believe Tom is dead on with respect to weight affecting casting performance. This occurs in two instances. 1. On the backcast, the heavier assembly (guides+thread+finish) will carry a greater momentum while the rod is moving backward. Consequently, it will take a greater force to overcome this momentum and allow the rod to begin the
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I tried it and since the epoxy has penetrated, it will pull the thread off.
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If you static tested it and those guides keep the line off the blank and follow the blank action correctly then its all good. Then again, you could acid wrap it and delete a few guides.
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Also, try replacing the trebles with wider gap single hooks.
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After trying a few different types of bobber stops, I settled on a piece of mono, slightly heavier than the running line. Lay it parallel to the running line and twist it around the line three times. Then take the two tag ends and twist them around each other three times. Grab the tag ends and cinch it down. Leave the tag ends about a 1/2" long. I know it doesn't sound right but the longer t
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Well, I just ordered materials. The rear edge of the original reel seat location measures 1.10". I will be using a fuji 30mm (1.18") reel seat (the original reel seat was a 30mm chrome plated brass seat). The rear grip will be x-flocked shrink tube (1.38") to a rubber butt cap. the foregrip will be a length of x-flocked shrink tube (1.38") terminating in an EVA Surf Grip. Aft
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Dave Orr Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You probably see a difference in a rod that > heavy. > You would do well to add some lead in the butt or > you could end up with some serious wrist and elbow > issues with prolonged use. > I have a 15' 9/10 wt spey I'm building as a float > rod for baby tarpon to 30 or 40 pounds. :) > >
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Sounds good. For the termination at the front of the foregrip, would electrical tape make sense?
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If I add the plate seat on top of the shrink wrap, can I then wrap thread around the shrink tube or should I cut channels in the tube to accomodate the thread?
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Here's where my mental block comes in. If the seat is wrapped to the blank, does the shrink wrap cover the end wraps but not the center one?
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I just got two used surf rods from @#$%&. An ugly stick BWS 1100-12 and a Daiwa 5125 13'. The shakespeare is in decent shape with some touch up needed on the epoxy at the guide feet and the guide frames need painting. The Daiwa is a teardown. I am considering grip choices for the Daiwa and since my hands are fairly small, I don't want to increase the diameter of the rod If I don't have to (butt
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Too late to change guides now, the wrapping is done. Anyway, not to dispute the facts, but how much weight reduction are we talking about and if it is a few grams, how noticeable is it? I am fairly accustomed to handling heavier rods for a fair period of time and though you are probably right on the facts, I don't if I am convinced that it would make much of anoticeable difference. Also the
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A 2500 size reel.
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