C. Royce: Thanks much for the reply on how to fix my inlay problem; your idea worked very, very well. There remains a tiny blemish, but that's only because I cut into the inlay itself. Thanks again, Bruce A. tomaselli
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Jay, I have a question; does that method work with metallic thread?
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Jay, now that's a great idea. You mean the finish will go right up the foot, filling the tunnel, thus preventing water to seep in? If that works, and I'll take your word that it does so, it will sure make things easier. I'm forever trying to wipe off errant finish in that area. I'm sure going to try that on my next piece of art.
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I have a dumb question: what is considered the toe on the guidefoot? I have an idea, but enlighten me. It's a good thing I don't hang with you guys because I'd never hear the end of it. LOL!
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Bill, I certainly will hide them. LOL!. If possible in my lifetime, I'd eventually like to get to the point where I could sell a few rods for pocket change. I only have 4 nephews and I can only use so many rods myself. Of course, I guess one can never have too many fly rods! The finish on my guidewraps is fine, but I seem to be having a few problems with the signature area. I guess you may have r
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Thanks, C. Royce! I am an amateur, too! That's why I post so many questions. That method sounds extremely interesting and I will try it tonight. I'll post my results. Thanks for the help!
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Actually, Jim, I read my other posts and this latest is a bit different. You have to understand, someone trying to explain something to you in writing, isn't nearly as effective as actually demonstrating. My latest question dealt with just feeling the tiny blemish hole. I keep reading that this a learning tool.
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I'm sorry to keep boring you with these questions, which probably seem insignificant to you. But.......I have this indentation or pockmark about the size of a pinhead or a tad larger over my feather inlay as you know. Can I just try and sand that tiny area and put a drop of finish in to fill it or do I have to finish the entire signature area? I guess that would mean I would have to sand and coat
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Hi Mike! I forgot I have that very issue. It is excellent and I will study it again. Mentally, I'm to the point when I get stressed when I have to finish a rod. It seems that the guidewrap finish is fine. It's the signature spot that gives me the trouble with uneven fnish, dust, bubbles, etc.
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All: Would you read my last post on the bonehead move and give me your opinions? Thanks
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Anthony: I use model paint for my inscriptions thinned with a couple drops of water. I rough the spot where I write the inscription and just epoxy over it with Crystal Coat. It hasn't smeared yet. I use Crystal Coat becuase the guy that taught me (teaching) me uses it. I haven't had a problem.
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I will, Mike! I guess with a brush or spatula you get a big glob on and just drop it on the guidewrap and them wick off the eess?
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Stephen, Here it is.
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I used the search and found plenty of stuff on applying finish. I read Joe's tutorial on using a spatula at (hisrodshop) and it's very good. It would be great if someone would make a DVD just on finishing with a spatula and brush.
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I was told that spatulas for applying finish are used for bigger rods such as surf rods and not on fly rods. Is that true?
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I looked at the impression I made over the inlay again and it appears I may have gotten the razor blade right down to the feather. The feather isn't damaged, but I'm still worried about filling the the pinhead-sized hole in the finish. I put the last coat on Saturday evening. Is it dry enough to try and sand now?
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Thanks for the advice, guys! I guess my initial question is will denatured alcohol be enough to clean a brush. The spatula idea intrigues me, but I haven't a clue how that might work. Is there a tutorial somewhere I can learn from? Also, I was wondering about chemicals (M.E.K.) because I do work in a small apartment and winter is coming, which means I won't be able to open the doors and windows.
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Well, Bill, I use Crystal Coat Finishfrom Clemen's Custom Tackle in PA, whcih is where I live. I was using a sable brush, but I have a mess of Flexcoat purple and yellow brushes, too. I live in an apartment and build on my kitchen table. I've probably only built 4 fly rods this year and I'd like to to do 2 or 3 more before Christmas. I guess I have no safety standards that's why I'm wondering if
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I'm looking for ideas to solve a problem I created on a feather inlay. The entire inlay process went well until I scanned my finish for blemishes or bubbles. I found a bubble on top of the inlay and proceeded to cut it off with a sharp razor blade. I accidentally cut too deep after the second coat of finish dried and there remains a depression even after the third coat was applied. Is it possible
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Ed Kindervater said, "denatured alcohol is the only solvent you need to use in rod building." Do I need to use M. E. K. to clean my brushes? Is there something less dangerous that will do the job? I will do a search in the meantime. Thanks
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Man, I just love that bug inlay.
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I was reading the Cabelas IM7 query and have a question. I have snake guides for a fly rod I'm going to build (4wt.). If I wanted to change to singlefoot guides would I use the same size guides and number of guides?
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Hi Billy! So, I'm assuming (as perilous as it is), that there are white hosels?
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LOL! Actually, Mike, I know they are part of the handle and probably how Terry Henson inlays his bugs. I'm just not sure how to insert it, but I'm sure I can find out.
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I'm not certain what hosels are for and where to buy them. Help!
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Hi Mike! I tried to email him, but I think my message was bounced back. Perhaps he'll see this and email me.
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Oops! I gave my rookies status away with that question! LOL!
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Question: Why is perma gloss safer to use than Flex Coat or other epoxies? Just wondering!
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Can anyone suggest how I could do a bug inlay so it would be easily seen on the blank of a dark colored fly rod blank? I saw Terry Henson's bug inlays on handles and wonder if I could do the same thing on a fly rod blank. Thanks
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Duane, I, too, use a quill pen dipped in acrylic craft paint. Last night I inscribed my initials and rod specifications. I have a problem with the color intensity of the lettering. It always seems that no matter how thick I make the paint, the colors fade, even before I put finish over them. It drives me nuts. I like the decals, but I always create some kind of imperfection during the job. I'm of
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