Being in the South I imagine it will dry very quick if I have read that hummidity aids in this.
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Ok - I have a blank I have painted with krylon fusion - The finish is not as smooth as the rods come from the factory. I have ordered some permagloss to coat it but after searching it looks like the permagloss may not be the way to go. I remember an article in rod builder showing a way to apply it using a pvc cap and some foam to coat the blank with. Just wondering if I need to go another
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any guess on what it cost to ship?
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What if the mandrel does not have a taper in the end like using all thread or just plain round stock?
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I am just getting into turning my own handles. Bought a Jett Mini Lathe. I have a chuck for the tail stoch that I have used to hold a bit for drilling out but caps ect. What do I need to turn on a mandral? I thought all I needed was 2 chucks one for the head stock and one for the tail stock. I quickly realized that the chuck I have for the tail stock does not turn. What do I need?
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Have not been able to find them.
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I need a split grip handle that matches the Fuji ACSM 16 seat. I ordered the RSG3T from Mudhole but it is smaller than the back of the seat so I believe it would be uncomfortable to fish. Looking for any other suggestions that would work. Thanks
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Just upgraded to a sable brush from the disposables, I have not used it yet but my question is after you soak the brush in the brush cleaner what do you need to do before using it to apply finish? On the disposables when my finish starts setting up and not flowing right I toss the old brush and get a new one for the new batch would you just clean the sable brush in between batches of finish like
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Any one built an 8' flipping stick? Looking for suggetions on blanks, I know MHX makes one but it says it is a 1+ peice.
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Wondering how many of you have ordered from them? I contacted them and he has sent me a price list. Just curious what the average shipping rate is ? Also I am new to building my own handles so I am wanting to get some cork to practice turning handles on my lathe what is the best grade to order for practice that will still turn out a decent handle? Thanks
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Chris, am I seeing that you do not use grips on bass rods? If that is the case I would love to see some samples.....
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I have a MHX CB783 that I really like for bass. I want to build another just longer. Looking to do a 7 1/2'. How do the rainshadow CB76M compare to the MHX blanks? Any preference one over the other? Is there another blank at a similiar price point I should consider?
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Sounds like a much better way to do it than what I was thinking. Thanks!
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I have been thinking abut using a ball marker as well. How do you do the inset? Do you use a dremal tool to reem out the spot for it? Also what do you use to hold it in place?
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What speed is a good speed for turning cork handle?
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I guess my next question is what is a cheaper 4 jaw chuck for the headstock? I do several split grip rods and really want a good way to drill out the butt grips since you can't ream all the way through them. My plan is to use the 3 or 4 jaw to hold the butt grip and use a chuck with a bit to in the tail stock to drill them out to make them fit. When turning grips do most folks glue up the gri
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Thanks!
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Ok I think I am going to make the plunge and buy a used JML 1014I from a guy for a pretty good price. What do I need to make it functional for rod building. I mostly do bass rods. I will probably only be using it for cork until I figure out the fancier stuff I can do. Any other suggestions on what I will need? Thanks
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Can you send me the instructions as well. I have been wanting to try this.
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Looking for suggestions on a blank for a kids first rod- something for panfish. I was thinking about maybe an ice rod blank? I prefer something solid color.
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Is there any way to put a quick disconnect link in the cord to the foot control? I am wanting to make my wrapper a little easier to move around if I need to clean up my area ect. Just looking for a way to make the wrapper a little more portable/easier to store. Thanks
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Hey Bob, I got one of the team logo stickers I am about to use in a build..... Do I need CP or just go over it with flexcoat? Thanks
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Attempting to do some trim wraps using both the metalic Pro-kote and Gudebrond. I tape the thread and pull to the blank then start my wrap like normal after about 5 turns I wrap the trim 3 wraps and pull it back under my main wrap cut the tag ends and finish the wrap. I am having issues with the trim wrap staying tight and packed. Is it just because they are the metallic threads on a glossy blank
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I usually order the disposable nylons from rod building supply stores looks like I forgot to re-order them and need to finish a rod pretty quick and do not want to pay the rush shipping...... Are the brushes you get at a local hobby store the same? I was thinking of actually trying one of the sable. Is the only difference the name on the handle?
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Any tricks to getting all of your wraps equal on each guide foot? I have used calipers and tried to mark the starting point, is there a better way?
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I know Mudhole has X-Camo blanks, I have a request for a digital camo like the new military uniforms...... The rod will be for bass fishing. Does anyone have any suggestions ? Thanks
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That might be the route especially since he isnt a fly rod junky. He just liked the long rod and action and used it to cast a light hook under a quil to bream. Im not sure if he actually even used it to cast fly line or if he used with a spinning reel
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So has anyone built one with the bamboo blanks from Angler's roost? the price is a lot less expensive than what I was expecting. Thanks
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My father in law mentioned he would like to have another bamboo fly rod - given the cost of a bamboo rod I am looking for a blank that has the same properties as a bamboo rod. He actually said he used to use it with a quil float to fish for panfish with. So I am open for suggestions on a blank/build that will work - I know he said the reel seat was at the end like a normal fly rod and it was 8f
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I guess I need to know how to install the fighting butt part. I already have the 4" grip that sits behind the arbor reamed and ready to go. I thought the fighting butt would be in 2 pieces. The fighting butt is 1 piece. Do I just drill it out then fill in with epoxy and cover it with a winding check? If I do this from the open end of the fighting butt it will not match the taper of the rod?
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