We modified our logo and I thought it would be fun to weave it. I am not to sure about the chesnut to candy apple red contrast. Still have a lot of tightening and packing to do..
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I started this grip and then when I was doing the foregrip with the kids tonight: 1. Did not use enough contact cement on the edges.. 2. Realized that the foregrip was a shade off from the rear grip. I guess from now on, I need to check to ensure the shades of the EVA will be the same or just use the smaller diamter for the rear grip and foregrip and ream!
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I copied the purple concept from the doctor of Skiola. I wish I put a single inlay before and after the gold inlay..
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My first attempt at a color weave. This is a Doc Ski Mako Shark. I need to work on the middle portions better. Any comments are welcome as I am learning.
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thanks Roger.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Give it a try on a scrap piece of cork stock, if > you have any. I think you'll find it will make a > difference. Just be careful and wear heavy work > gloves for holding the piece. > > ............ Yup... made a huge difference and was clean. thanks young man
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I did not have it at the highest setting (rpm)..I did pull it slow and tried to keep it centered. Maybe the higher speed would be the difference. thanks
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I picked one up hoping it would save me time in reaming out some cork... Tried it today and poof the handle is ruined. It was 1/4 inch holes and I had to pre ream it a small bit just to fit the drill bit in.. It was still a snug fit and there is no way I could have put any tape arbors on. It was an 8 " rear grip. Also the inside of the grip looked real ragged. And yes, I pulled
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Stick with the slick butts. Those cannot be beat..imo... There are bottle butts with seats that can meet that diameter. or you can trim a couple of inches off the butt where it is the most wide with out any issues.
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Ask Billy V - Nerbs... He has a lot of unique items..
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Use a rubber band around the blank , I have never had one come out even the heavy stand up rods. Or do this which is a great idea..
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Thad I used the Windons on a CTS-56 xxh.. here is the last guide near the tip. (They do look a little big for the blank, but it has worked fine and I have caught many sharks 300- 400+ on this rod) I have also used the AA and they are a much narrow frame as Mark mentioned and look good on the rod. I think the AA are SS, while the Aftco's are plated.. The only thing I really like
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I have both and would recommend having both unless you do not use the big Gudebrod spool. The horizontal is better for the smaller spools.
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Depends which thread carriage you get. The one wih the post upright will hold the 4oz. There is a plastic insert that needs to go on the post so the spool is centered..
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Walt Just remember that if you use a grease like superlube, you want an extremely thin layer. Too much and you will attract gunk and bind.. I used to use Superlube, but found I got better "freespool" with red corrosion x and I don't have to worry about it gunking up.. Never tried x-treme lube I would never use WD-40 on them..
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I use red corrosion X
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Phil I have found the Aftco fits a little better with the Merri!k sleeve. After I have the slick butt in place, (I use drywall tape), I put rod bond at the ends of the slick butt with my finger so no water can go up(I also do that to the reel seet )...After I wrap the rod, I install the gimbal and have never had water seepage issues.. I have not tried the long arbor method, but is sounds
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George Get the upgrade chuck, it is much better. All you have to do is either put a rubber band on the butt and the chuck will never open or put some cork tape on the chuck jaws, there is a good photo on that.. It is a good wrapper. I both both style of thread tensioners. The large 4oz fit on the old style while I use the smaller spools with the newer style. I have had it for 3+ y
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Non swivel, one less thing to go wrong when fighting a big fish... Some of the Tuna guys who keep the rod in the swivel rod holders will use the swivel tip. Wire line, different issue
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''
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Lamiglas BT 96 3M, 8', or a BT 108 3M, 9'
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Dave I keep meaning to ask, are you related to Pete Barrett? thanks
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Do not overtighten. Run some mono thru and you can tell if they work fine..
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I put down a base layer and then do 2 overwraps (a thread) for my stand ups.
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Tim get a pair of welders gloves (or similar) so you won't burn your hand. Have a buddy hold the rod, apply heat sparingly...gently twist the gimbal a hair to see if the epoxy broke. Do not force the twist. keep applying heat sparingly and it will pop off. I have done this a number of times with no ill reprocussions. It is another matter when it comes to the tip.... I have swi
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Why don't you use just drywall and epoxy? That is what I do on the majority of my off shore rods..
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Yeah, I cut my boomer jr down to fit a slick butt onto it. I usually use Amtek slick butts. The Aftco 2 has an outer diameter of just shy 1 1/8 and 3 has an 1 1/4". The Ice blue aftco is matched with the Ice blue metalic from gudebrod. It is a light blue color. I have it on my 30 lbs stand up. I like the plain round EVA or hypo. I had not yet tried the triangle, but it sure wo
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I would go with the 655XH with the 50Wide. I probably would even opt for the Boomer series if you want an e glass blank. I like the Aftco reel seat and gimbals. Why do you need a tuna clamp? Hypolon 14 inch foregrip or some hard EVA I like rollers, so that is what I use mostly. I have used both Aftco and AA rollers. The AA rollers can take a big wind-ons. The Aftco HD is a sma
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I have also found that the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser also works well to get out the discoloration on the lighter EVA from fish guts/dirty hands..etc..
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U-40, wick off the excess - 2 coats...
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