Static deflection test on the upper portion of the rod.
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This is the factory St. Croix 8' MH rod guides placement / selection 30, 20, 16, 12, ending with a 10 chocker on the far right.
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Circle in Yellow on the far right is an Alps #8 chocker guide, moving to the left and circled in Red is a Fuji Sic #10 spinning guide, and the next guide which is circled in Blue is an Alps #20 spinning guide.
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St. Croix Avid Inshore guides placement #1
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Thank you Bill. That's what thought. Fuji makes Gold Cermet Titanium guides and tops but they are very hard to find.
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Hi, I am looking for a solid Titanium Gold ceramic tip top tube size 4-4.5 to match AMTAK's GNIA guides. Please advice. Thanks, Pedro
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I just received 2 Lamiglas LP844 XMG blanks in the mail today and I got to tell you that they are very fast. I have not had a chance to measured them yet but they are probably close to extra fast. All I can tell you is that they are way faster than any popping rod I have handled before including Loomis P844 GLX and faster than Lamiglas IMP series. My 2 cents.
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All great points. I will offset the guide on the spiral wrap rod I am working on. Once again, thank you for all of your help. Russ, I am waiting on a couple of parts to finish the rod, I will contact you when I am ready so I can bring the rod too.
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Do you guys also offset the first running guide. Any benefits from doing this. Also, when doing the static placement where is the line pressure supposed to be located on the stripper and 2 transition guides, right on top of the guide's bridge / leg (place closer to the blank) or on the side of the ring (pulling downwards).
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Tom, how many degrees would you recommend for the offset. Thanks
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Hi, I am in the process of building a second spiral wrap rod and I have a couple of questions to ask you guys before I can proceed. First, some spiral wrap methods call for the stripper guide to be offset to the side of the rod's blank to keep the line from winding on one side of the reel only, I understand its purpose but what about if you're using a reel with a level wind that does all the
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Tom, that's awesome. Keep up the good work the industry needs it. God willing I will attend next year to my first expo meeting.
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Tom, your answer was very clear and precise. Thank you.
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Lorenzo check your mailbox.
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Hi, I have question about using REC Recoil RSFX Light single foot fly rod guides on a spinning or bait casting set up. I know that in most cases we would want to keep the fishing line as close to the blank as possible but how close is too close. These guides seat considerably lower on the blank than their RSPG and they weight much less too but I am not sure if the the weight savings outweight the
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Portuguese not Spanish.
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Thank you Spencer. I take it by the lack of responses and the number of watchers that this is not a very popular blank in the bass fishing community.
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Hi, I am ready to build a Lamiglas DTIMC84-M and I was wondering what the bass guys normally used this blank for. I still have not made up my mind yet but I will probably go with a spiral wrap and micro guides. Thanks, Pedro
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I appreciate it. Thanks
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Tom, Any word of what happened to my second issue. Please let me know. Thanks, Pedro
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Email sent. Thank you for your quick response.
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Tom, I recieved my first Rodmaker magazine on Feb 24 but it is the end of May now and I still have not received my second issue. Can you please help me out on this one. I appreciate it. Thanks, Pedro
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I was having similar problems too and it was because I was applying the glue directly to the rod tip and trying to slip the tip top, but then I saw a video where they cut small thin pieces of the glue and they were inserted inside the tip top tube then heated until it melted and placed on the rod tip. The last thing you need to do is remove whatever glue spills out of the tube. Hope this helps.
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Thanks Ellis. I think I am going to pass on the gold nut then.
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I have read that Fuji or any other brand of guides with a Gold coating do not do well in a saltwater environment but what about the Gold reel seat locking nut. I am about to start building a rod that will look really nice with a Gold nut but I am not sure if it would be the best idea to do so. Any bad experiences with them.
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Good to know. Thank you all for your quick replies.
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Is there an actual need to apply epoxy in front of the foregrip. I ask this question because I see many people with split grips sticking the factory label or writing the rod specs in between the split grips for better balance but this same people are still applying epoxy in front of the foregrip which let me to believe this transition area between the grips/seat and the blank is prone to failure
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Matt, I know exactly what you mean not even my kayaking buddies take as good care of their fishing gear I as do. I always have the fishing rod I am using in my hand or sitting on my lap never laying around on the kayak and the rest are tied and laying on the rod holders on a Shimano Bristol Bay portable live-well bag that I mainly use a cooler. I even grap a small piece of tape around the hook ke
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matthew jacobs Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I know these weren't in your original choices but > since you're opening the specs up a little more, > have you looked at the MHX-SJ843 & 4 or the > popping series such as the MHX P843? > Paired up with Am. Tack. Artus micro guides, you'd > have a rod that'd be an awesome inshore machine.
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Russ, yes you do. You have been building your own rods a lot longer than I have so I sure can learn a thing or two from you. Also, I would like to feel the new aero seat. Right now, my favorite cool spinning seats are Fuji IPS and VSS but the aero seat looks to be very popular with custom rod builders. I have not gotten accustomed to the look of the aero with that huge bump but yet again I have n
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