EVA foam is the most likely to compress and crack a paint job on its surface. Harder grip materials are better suited to decorative painting.
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I did a Google search out of curiosity and found Batson Forecast E-Glass Saltwater Rod Blanks One Piece, Moderate-Fast Action, Gloss Black Finish, 2yr Warranty SWB70ML under the steelhead/salmon category. Appears similar but not identical. 7' 12-20lb 3/8 - 1-1/2oz .785 butt dia. 7.5 tip dia. Med-Light
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Since the metallics usually have a metallic filament wrapped around a nylon core, it can take a little while after applying finish for maximum penetration into voids in the thread to be penetrated and filled by the finish. This may be what is happening in your case where the initial finish application gets sucked into the thread after maximum saturation occurs. You could try checking the appea
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I have fished with the 9'4" and 9'8" steelhead models and really liked both of them.
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I would redo it. Heating and moving the guide will loosen the bond making the guide unstable.
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The "Common Cents System" can be found to the left under the SPONSORS column.
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You could do some "Common Cents System" testing to answer your questions accurately but my guess is to use line around 6lb. test or less and lures around 1/16 to 3/8 oz.
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An alternative to the usual petroleum based pigments that most use for marbling is to use latex craft store paints like the Folk Art metallics. A white coat of exterior latex house paint is suitable for a primer followed by a base color of choice which is sealed with a coat of thread finish then marbled and sealed again. The process is described in RodMaker magazine Volume 16 #3.
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I build mostly spinning rods in my area so I use single foot fly guides as the running guides of size 6 or 8 for lightness and to prevent ice build up that we experience here when fishing during the colder months. The size refers to the outside diameter of the ring insert in the frame of the guide. This is fairly standard for the various manufacturers as far as I know. There are articles in
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Lamiglas XMG 110 2M or Batson Rainshadow XST 1085 are a couple that might work for your purposes.
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The ProWrap metallic 9540 Shamrock looks like a close match to Gudebrod metallic 9252 Aquamarine.
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If you were to contact G Loomis, they could probably tell you the last MSRP for the blank models that you have. GL2 was standard modulus (33 million) and GL3 was second generation (IM6 or about 38 million) originally.
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Water will penetrate to yield the darkened look that nylon thread will have with finish if no color preserver has already been applied to the thread. After it dries the color returns to normal with no clean up necessary.
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Merrick Tackle has National Tackle Thread EE in black, white, and red.
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From viewing the picture it looks to me that you could put the outside sleeve over the break by slipping it on intact right at the break itself avoiding having to split it at all.
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Lamiglas XMG 114 2M or Batson Rainshadow IST1144F would be blanks to consider. Both are 9'6'' and make good long distance spinning bobber rods.
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I've used Gudebrod, Fish Hawk, National, PacBay, and ProWrap size A metallics on rods with powers up to the medium salmon fishing qualifications for years with no problems.
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Modified alligator clips and clothes pins with their jaws slightly grooved work well for me to hold guides temporarily in place for wrapping.
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A small metal binder clip (used for holding sheets of paper) clamped over one wing of the wingnut and the threaded rod will stop the wingnut from spinning loose.
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If you are going after 25 lb. salmon as stated I'd recommend more power and a faster action than you are considering. A medium to medium heavy powered steelhead blank with a fast action seems more appropriate than the blank you are thinking of using. Most fishermen have hand to elbow lengths around 17-18 inches so handles longer than 18 inches stick out beyond their elbows catching on clothing
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I, too, always seem to experience bleed through from a dark colored blank or dark underlying thread when using light colored regular nylon thread. The brand of thread or brand of color preserver doesn't seem to make much of a difference in avoiding the bleed through. To avoid these issues, I use mainly metallic or NCP threads which don't require color preserver and won't bleed through.
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I usually try to get by just doing one coat on guide wraps. I use mainly the metallics which seem to release more air bubbles than regular or ncp thread. After applying a quick first layer I'll heat it briefly with an embossing gun to saturate and drive out the air. After cooling a few minutes, I will check for trapped bubbles and even coverage. Visible bubbles can be stripped off with a spat
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" I was wondering what problems you were having if any when turning the whole rod with your drill lathe? Did you need to do anything special so the rod won't oscillate and destroy itself? Thanks Once Again! Chester" Chester, I don't turn the whole rod very often on my lathe since I prefer to shape handles before gluing them on the blank. I use steel mandrels about 20" l
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You could try heating the area on the guide briefly with a cigarette lighter then peel off the the run area of the finish to a surface slice with your razor knife at the base of the guide leg.
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You are welcome for the thank you on the article and the compliments. I enjoyed putting it together and hope that you and some of the other Rodmaker Magazine subscribers will find it useful for rod building efforts. I'm not an artist either but do stumble onto some interesting looks mostly by accident. At times it seems like I'm back in grade school finger painting. My issue hasn't arrived ye
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