I would bite off the grips with an ordinary pair of pliers down to the blank after spiral cutting off the reel seat with a hacksaw. Some careful scraping and rubbing with denatured alcohol should do the rest..
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*Leave the new tip top sleeve at 1/2" and glue it in place, essentially leaving only glue in the 1/8" sleeve void. " Your second option seems the best.
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Another alternative would be to use a regular thread color that closely matches the blank color when the thread is wet at the ferrules. This is done to make the ferrule wrap less conspicuous.
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Looks like overly aggressive burnishing to me. Try just burnishing from the outside in to the center and avoid burnishing the ends of the wraps from the inside beyond the outer ends.
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A little brief focused heat from a cigarette lighter or candle may loosen the bond and allow you to pop the epoxy off the seat with a craft stick.
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I had a similar situation in the recent past. I called the company and was told their guides were made specifically for them and not available to the public. So, I matched the guide needing replacement as close as possible by its looks.
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Consider using water-based craft paints for your picture(s). That way they could be easily removed by washing with a wet sponge and redone until you get the picture that you want to preserve by topcoating with finish once the picture has dried.
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Don Bunn is the name listed from the contest web page for the cover.
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To the question: " What exactly is SCIV/SCII ? Is it higher modulus (quality) than the SC III, if so why is it used in the Imperial seres and sold for a lesser amount. " More and more blanks are being designed and built as blends of different modulus materials to suit function in sections of the blank and overall performance. I think lower modulus flags or sections of materials are o
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Using a variable speed drill at slow speeds, gradually increasing the bit size to just remove enough material to fit the blank butt end, and letting the grip periodically slip in your hand to keep the hole concentric should work if the grip isn't more than twice the length of the bit itself. Drilling from both ends of the grip and letting the bit find its own path helps keep the hole centered.
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Try wrapping over the completed pattern with size D thread under high tension and then push in on the D thread to pack the last pattern thread tightly to the rest of the pattern. Allow the wrap to set for awhile and then remove the D thread before continuing the tie-off end wraps.
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You should be able to order RodMaker Volume 16 #3 as a back issue here - and have enough information from the article to start experimenting with the faux finishing techniques. Good luck and thanks for your interest.
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Here is one possibility -
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Packing the ferrule area with crushed ice shrinks the materials and allows the parts to release with graphite sections after 10 to 20 minutes. It is worth a try.
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I have used metallics for decades with no apparent strength issues. They have a nylon core that provides the strength to the thread.
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A under wrap of an appropriate color below the crosswrap design also helps to keep the design threads from slipping on the outside of the pattern.
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3. INSTRUCTIONS FOR PHOTO PAGE... The new Rodbuilding.org photo page is now operational. Because it operates on different software than the forum, if you wish to post or view photos you will need to register for the photo page separately.
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Mix a little water with the filler to obtain a peanut butter consistency, use a craft stick to cover the entire grip and fill the holes like buttering an ear of corn, remove excess with vertical strokes of the stick, hold a folded paper towel lightly against the grip and spin the handle slowly moving the towel up and down the grip until smooth, repeat if the filled areas shrink after drying, let
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Satisfying the purchaser's specific rod design request(s) is not going to be an option with the rod having already been completed. Custom rods would also be competing with the shop's inventory of factory rods that are likely to have a higher profit margin and lower prices to begin with. If there is a niche that isn't satisfied by factory rods, it could have possibilities, though.
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Sounds like the resin component needs a bit more warming to fully dissolve again. After loosening the cap, try 10 second bursts in a microwave until all the crystals have dissolved and the resin is thin and warm.
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If you are going to " knock the shine off of them with a fine scotch-bright pad for a satin finish before wrapping" the scratches will pobably become much less visible after doing that. I don't think the orginal finish is permagloss, however.
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For an incomplete crosswrap, wrapping over the entire area with closely spaced thread with 1/16 inch gaps under high tension can help keep things in place. When ready to resume the wrap, remove the security thread and proceed.
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Underwraps for the guides are generally used for much heavier rods than the one you are building.
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Grips should be reamed just enough to allow them to be positioned with a dry-fit just an inch ot two lower than their final position after glue-up. No arbors are necessary unless the fit is loose from too big a hole. It sounds as if you have a gap between the grip and the blank that was not filled with epoxy by repeated sliding and twisting the grip into place before curing took place. None o
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Latex wood filler similar in color to cork or there are some rod building products sold specifically for cork pit filling applications.
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I have used metallics for decades with the biggest difference being they are harder to work with. Burnishing will tend to remove color from the outer metallic filament. Wraps can be given a tightened look by instead pushing from the edges to close any gaps. Rolling a round plastic craft paint brush over to surface will also close gaps without damaging the appearance. Some colors fade more tha
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I think one to two pounds is probably appropriate. You could experiment with different amounts of resistance to find just where the guides are snug but can still be adjusted for alignment.
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If it is a varnish finish, the thread will probably not be coated to the extent that ridges between adjacent threads are filled in entirely. The texture can be felt to some degree under this condition so a new coat of varnish after removing any old loose flaking stuff with a finger nail or craft stick may freshen up the look without having to rewrap. As suggested by others, a trial effort may s
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Loose finish can be removed by applying gentle heat with a flame, hair dryer, or embossing gun and gently picking off loose finish being careful not to move the underlying thread. Then apply color preserver to the exposed thread, let dry, and finally apply a coat of epoxy thread finish.
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A clear coat providing more protection and a better look than just paint on the surface are a couple of the reasons cited for their use on most vehicles today.
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