I am in the process of completing a repair to an older 2 piece ultra light rod. The break is about 6" below the ferrule and 2" above the first guide. Due to this being a tip into butt rod, an oversleeve is not an option, so I am going with an inner sleeve. The sleeve is fit and will be glued with rod bond. I plan on filling the gaps between the two pieces with tinted rod bond. I will also overwrap the break area with A thread when the rod bond is dry and then coat with epoxy.

Questions:

1) Should I remove the finsh directly adjacent tothe break, wrap with black thread, then use colour preserver and epoxy? or
2) Leave the finish, wrap with black thread and coat with epoxy?

Chris Richer
Iroquois ON

Chris,
You have indicated that the break is 6" from the Ferrule and 2" from the first guide.
I certainly see no issue about using an outer sleeve.

Perhaps you can tell me why an over sleeve won't work.

I have repaired many many rods, and generally always use both in inner sleeve, as well as an outer sleeve. I never trim the break. Rather, I use the break like a jig saw puzzle to put the edges of the break back together.
The ragged edges, give a much larger gluing area for the glue.

I always, firs prepare my inner sleeve, then the outer sleeve, and prefit every thing to check for fit.

Then, I mix up a batch of 5 minute epoxy, coat the 4 pieces with glue, assemble everything and when complete, but the glue not set, use DNA to clean up any excess adhesive.

Then, I simply use A sized thread to put a 1/4 inch wide thread wrap at each end of the outer sleeve to prevent any chance of splitting. I never worry about removing any finish. No issue with any of the many repairs that I have done over the years.

Generally speaking the entire repair takes me about 20 minutes, including the wrapping of the ends of the outer sleeve, and coating it with a coat of rod finish.

Good luck

X2 what Roger said, I do it the same way.

______________________________________
Super Tight Lines......Don

It is a tip into butt rod. The ferrule at the top of the butt section is larger that the diameter where the repair is needed. Short of stripping and rebuilding the ferrule, an inner sleeve is the only option.

Chris Richer
Iroquois ON

Hi Chris,
You could make an outer sleeve and split it so you can get it over the broken area. When you glue it up bind it very tighly with some disposable thread. When dry remove the thread, clean up any excess glue then bind over with thread and finish. Would definitely be stronger than just thread alone. Ralph O'Quinn has suggested this techique for getting sleeves to fit on some repairs and his only concern was not to "tell" an aerospace engineer what you'd done!!

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

Chris,
Do me a favor if you can. Can you take a picture of the broken rod, so that I can better understand the issue?

Be safe

Roger,
There is one on the photopage.

ESFNEM Col
Port Kembla, NSW
Australia

I knew there was something I forgot to include

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Chris Richer
Iroquois ON

Hey Chris,

Your repair idea will probably work but you can create an over-sleeve and split it to get it over the female ferrule on the butt section, then overwrap with thread after you glue it up. I would not clean up the break area and just fit it all together when you glue it as it will help the alignment.

Terry

What orientation should the split be? Up? down? With the hoop strength compromised, where do you put the weak point?

Chris Richer
Iroquois ON

From viewing the picture it looks to me that you could put the outside sleeve over the break by slipping it on intact right at the break itself avoiding having to split it at all.

What is missing in the picture is the rather large ferrule above the break. I could slip an outside sleeve over the butt part of the break, but would not be able to insert the tip into the sleeve.

Chris Richer
Iroquois ON

Measure and Remove the guide that is 2" below the break so you can slide the oversleve down
After glued rewrap the guide on

Bill - willierods.com

Chris,
Can you take a larger picture of the rod break to include several inches on each side of the break, including the rod joint.

I still see no reason why you can't use an outer sleeve

By the way, as Bill pointed out, if a repair is done that is near a guide, I always take the guide off the rod before making the repair. Then, if you have an outer sleeve on the rod, have it extend to just under the guide foot. That way, when you wrap the guide back on, the over sleeve tends to blend right into the blank.

Thanks much
Be safe

Posted a new picture.

Over all shot of the break. 6 inches from ferrule, 1.75 inches from guide foot. Diameters 6.9 mm at break, 7.78 mm at the ferrule.

Chris Richer
Iroquois ON

Chris,
Ah - said the blind man as he picked up the hammer and SAW.

After checking your picture, I understand your first post. I have just never run across a rod that had that appearance.

But, in any event, do an outer sleeve and an inner sleeve.

Very simple to do.

1. Remove the guide that is below the break, and clean up the blank for a nice smooth appearance.
2. Size an inner sleeve to nicely fit on both sides of the break.
3. Size an outer sleeve to fit on the outside of both sides of the break.
Remember, when you are doing the outer sleeve, you can first check the fit on the lower portion with the guide removed, and get the fit perfect. Then, trim or enlarge as needed to allow the outer sleeve to slip up the blank - toward the rod joint.

Leaving the outer sleeve that has been properly sized on the upper portion of the blank - below the joint, do a prefit of the inner, outer and rod blank for fit and appearance. If it all matches, mix up a batch of 5 minute epoxy - goop up the inner sleeve and the break and push together. Then, pushing the outer sleeve up to the joint, grease up the blank with 5 minute epoxy well up the blank. By greasing up the blank, well up the blank, when you go to slide the outer sleeve down the blank, the glue will be sucked up inside the outer sleeve. Being careful not to disturb the inner sleeve or joint, then move the outer sleeve into its final position.

Again, before the epoxy has cured, clean up the several inches of blank that were coated with epoxy to get the inside of the outer sleeve coated, as it was slid down the blank.

Finally, wrap on and coat the guide and you are done.

------------------------
I think you made the assumption about not being able to do an outer sleeve because the joint was larger that what would have been the inside diameter of the outer sleeve. But, as I stated, no need to slid the outer sleeve over the joint. Just put the outer sleeve in place from the break.

Thanks for posting the picture so that I could understand your first post.

Be safe

Thanks for the info Roger.

Chris Richer
Iroquois ON