Can you make single trim bands of regular tying thread? I've only ever used metallic thread. I got a kit with a dark green rod. It has black thread, green thread and a gold metallic thread.
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Thanks. I figured out what I was doing wrong, and thanks for the link, Eric.
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I must be losing it. I click on the MHX sponsor name and all I can find are spey and switch rod blanks. I can't find any other fly rod blanks. Anyone care to point out what I'm missing? Thanks, Bruce
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Thanks for understanding, guys.
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Thanks, Bill. That's the way I've placed them on my present project. I don't recall ever reading about it and I've been looking.
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This going to sound dumb, but I've never had a clear answer to this question. There's a big foot and a small foot on a stripping guide. Which end points toward the tip, and does it matter?
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Thanks, Tom. I figured as much. I just wanted to get a professional's opinion. Bruce
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I was in the process of placing guides on my 3-piece, 9', 5wt. fly rod and broke an inch off of the tip. It's out of warranty, but I'm thinking that I'm just going to build it without that inch. I don't think it will make much of a difference, if any, that I will notice. What do you all think? Thanks
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I have access to mailing labels. How are you using them? Do you write on them and then place them on the rod like a decal? Do you have any photos of the finished process? This is great, I can make my own if this is how they are used.
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You are in my prayers.
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Russell Brunt Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > To add to what Tom says.....if you load the rod by > tying off to a fixed object like > bench/table.....then your angle on the blank > changes as you increase and decrease the load > meaning the blank isn't loaded naturally. Better > to tie the tip to a bucket and add water to load > the b
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Okay.Thanks all. I understand the process and will use it. Thanks for explaining it for me.
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Hi Barry. Can you posts the steps to making it? It looks easy to put together.
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Please tell me if I'm understanding the procedure. 1. Glue on tip top 2. Place guides on blank 5 inches or so apart 3. Tie tip top to bench table, etc. 4. put on reel and run fly line through the temporarily positioned guides 5. place small weight on fly line 6. Flex the rod 7. adjust guides so they follow the contour of the blank. Am I correct in thinking that no matter how much fle
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Are there photos anywhere showing how to do a static distribution guide placement?
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Is there another method, besides using masking tape, of holding guides on the blank to do a static test? The masking tape leaves residue on the rod, which can cause problems when wrapping.
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Thanks, Tom. Good article and point well taken. Would I need 9 guides plus a tip top? Is the standard rule of thumb 1 guide per foot of blank and a tip top?
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I'm building a 9' 5 wt. fly rod. What do you think of my proposed guide selection? My idea: 12, 5, 4, 3, 3, 3, 2, 2, 2, 2 plus a tip top. I appreciate all of your thoughts.
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Nice. Did you guys fillet the cat? I was thinking of building an MHX 9', 6wt. fly rod.
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Hik Tom. I've been helped over and over again by the generous people on this forum. I can't imagine it not being here. I appreciate the amount of work it takes to maintain this forum for our benefit as my sister is a computer person. I've learned so much and gotten out of some tight spots because this forum exists. Thanks for all of that you do and for providing us this forum so we are able to e
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The Sevier Tiger Eye is a nice, slow rod. I really enjoy mine.
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4.
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Still looking for a 10', 6 wt. The Batson no longer comes in Olympic Green. I'm getting tired of building on matte finishes.
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Yep. As soon as my income tax check comes in I'm going to buy from Karry. What I should have said in my post is that "I don't know anything about the 10' Rainshadows. I have built on the 8 and 9-footers and they're great blanks. Karry, you'll be hearing from me soon. I prefer snake guides. Thanks, Bruce
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I want to build a 10', 6 Wt. rod to use for trout on bigger streams. I'm wondering if it's possible to find one in the $100 to $125 range. I guess it should be moderate fast to fast. I saw a Rainshadow 10-footer for about $100, but I know little about them. I would appreciate suggestions because I haven't built on very many different blanks. Thanks
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"Once you have all the guides coated, you can come > back and put a tiny drop of finish at each guide > tunnel if you wish. A toothpick works well for > this." Tom Kirkman. Hi Tom and All. That sentence raises a question, is it necessary to put a drop of finish at each guide tunnel? Thanks, Bruce
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Ok. I use Threadmaster Lite. On my first coat should I establish the edges first and then apply just enough finish to wet the threads? Then, on the second coat, should I just apply on the threads? Two coats of lite should be plenty to make a nice finish. Bruce
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Tom, I hope you meant 30 seconds a guide for the pros? Gees, maybe that's one of my problems. I work slowly. I'm going to quicken the pace on my next build to see if it helps me.
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I learned one thing for sure and that is you can't fill holes. Lightly sand the surface, like the guys above suggested, and put on another coat. I had the same errant thinking about trying to fill in the spots. These guys here are experts and they've seen it all. I've only built about 15 rods so I'm not one of those experts. Don't want to mislead you. I trust I'll be corrected, as I should be, if
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Phil Erickson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It is still a controversial subject! Many still > build on the spine, while probably just as many > others build on the straight axis. Just saw a > presentation of St Croix's Wisconsin plant, and > they build on the straight axis. That is also the > way I do it. I only build fly rods. What
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