Now, that's a great find and idea.
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I haven't noticed anything unusual about the drying time of TM Lite. So far, I've had no problems with longevity. I guess I'm talking about 8 years.
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Nathan Moore Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I just built one for a Steelers fan (7' spinning > light action) and I have to tell you that the > yellow with black just POPS on that white > blank....you have to go to my facebook page to see > it though. Nathan, I'm not on facebook. Do you think you could post a photo here? I'm a Steeler fan
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Has anybody posted any of their finished white fly rod blanks? I'd like to see how they look. The white blanks are graphite, too?
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Do you just add it to the expoxy while yoou are mixing it?
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I learned from the neat tutorials here. They're very easy to follow.
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Spencer Phipps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The Pac Bay Tradition 9 wt that I fished was med > fast actioned. Is that the Tradition II?
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Hi. I'm looking for a fly rod for smallmouth bass. White kind of action is this rod? UTF909 9' 2 9 WT 41 - PLUM $20.0
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Herb Ladenheim Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hint for guide spacing. > > First all above correct - use static test ONLY. > > But don't use guides. They will mar rod's finish > when moved. And it is a PITA to constantly > re-tape in position. Even surgical tubing is a > pain. > > I use neoprene "O" rings sl
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Chad Huderle Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > There's probably more than one way to do this but > for me it's pretty straightforward. > > Print the desired picture on clear back decal > paper. > Do a white underwrap with nylon thread. > I add a black thread underwrap border on each > side of the white thread. This gives
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Is it still being made or have they started to make it again?
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Ditto!
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Bob Kraft Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Bruce, I use the same finish at about the same > temp. I like the fact that tm lite has a long set > life to begin with.I can epoxy a whole in one > setting. I let it turn and dry all night and get > excellent results. Hey Bob, Do you mean my temperatures 62 to 68 degrees?
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I use TM Lite. I apply finish in a room that the temperature ranges from about 62 to 68 degrees. Does have that any affect on the finishing process? I just figure the guides may take a little longer to dry.
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Sorry, I guess I hi-jacked the thread. I apologize. It was inadvertent.
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I'm still a novice but it sounds to me that it was the "heating" part that made it set up so quickly. Don't heat it. Most guys just keep the bottles in their pockets while they're are getting ready to mix and finish. I learned one lesson quickly, if the finish is stringy or seems to be hanging to your brush or whatever tool you use to apply it, you're done. Get rid of that batch and mix
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Thanks for the tip. Have you posted any ot those shots?
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Hi Tom and All. I was using your thread inlay tutorial in the library to complete a double thread inlay. After 5 wraps of my working thread I placed the end of my thread inlay. Instead of pulling the trim wrap underneath in steps 2 & 3, I cut the trim as close as possible, and then burnished it underneath the wrap when it was completed. Is that acceptable? I've placed the finish on it and I c
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Thanks, Roger. You won't believe it, but the reason I use CP is because it's easier to remove the thread and guide if I need to make a replacement. Is that a good reason? I replaced guides on a fiberglass rod for a buddy and it was so hard and painstaking to get the old finish off the rod I about blew a gasket. Bruce
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I'm just using the regular nylon Pac Bay brown thread.
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Hi Billy. I'm glad you are okay. I'm so sorry for your loss. We had some moderate damage here in Central, PA, and there was one recorded death because of a falling tree. How can I help you? Where can I send money? Bruce
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Question: Do 2 coats of CP do anything more than 1 coat? I put 1 coat on and then put a 2nd on the butt section and began to wonder. Do I really need 2 coats?
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I'm sure you're right. Thanks
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Hi Tom, I said that incorrectly. I meant I turn the rod while holding the brush as you do. Do you just soak the wrap on the first coat and then add the final coat? I'm going to have to read the tutorial again in the library. Beleive it or not. I'm done wrapping my rod, but I develop anxiety at the thought of putting on the finish. It creeps me out.
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Can you actually brush on finish with good results? Will it cause bubbles, etc.? I'm tempted to try it. It seems that it would be easier than trying to pull it around the wrap. Just wondered what you thought. Some say, yes, and some say, no.
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Sounds like a pretty god option to me.
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Thanks. I need to remove one.
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Is there an article or tutorial for the tip top band removal idea? I didn't see one in the library. I also did a search and came up empty. Thanks
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What is a good speed for a finishing motor?
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Jerry Cook Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Mike, I'm doing the same thing. Start with a trim > band, I do usually 4 turns then go into the main > wrap color. Then, finish the wrap with a trim band > of 4 turns. Looks good using either gold or silver > thread, but I usually use silver. > > Jerry Jerry, After you finish the first g
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