7s will be way too heavy, you don't need that weight on the rod. go for #3 or #4 single foot fly guides. they will serve you well.
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ALPS TRI RAH12M TC fantastic quality, gorgeous looks. also bomb proof.
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I think a Swift Epic 480 would be a very good choice. Very light, very strong, perfect action to cast well and protect the line. Plus, you can't beat the look of glass !
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@ Phil: of course it is! But if a rock falls on my foot and crush it, that's just gravity working the way it should. Does that mean I should rejoice? ^_^
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... or rather the contrary since it is now exclusively available to Jarden Corp brands. interesting piece of rethoric nevertheless, to present 'strategic alignment' as a widening of availability...
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you may want to try another approach. look at a Fuji spacing chart (you have one here: ) except that for a MH rod like yours, I'd go 30 / 16 / 8 then 6s up to the tip. In my experience, it works really good.
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did you make a reinforcement wrap at each female ferrule? did you bend the blank before doing these wraps? if the answers are yes and no, then you did nothing wrong as far as I can tell.
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this is typically the kind of situation where a fiberglass may be the ticket. I would look for a 7'6 4wt (you can go CTS or Epic for top modern glass). I think such rods are actually easier to cast, and with a fish on they'll be a blast. plus, they're extremely rugged.
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I always do a couple of masking tape turns. easy, quick, and gives me peace of mind when I fiddle with the blank.
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the high build epoxy finishes are good, most people use them. lite versions are good for slim finishes. 4 oz will give you more than enough to get started and know what you like. for the epoxy glue, I do not recommend to go under 15mn curing time. the main advice for a rodbuilder, regardless his experience, is to take your time. you don't want to use a glue that makes you rush your assembly.
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Hi, I'm going to use a TRI RAH12M B Alps reel seat on a fly rod. I love these seats, although they're very heavy. Here's my problem: I intend to use it without a fighting butt, so I need a black metal butt cap, fitting a reel seat of ID 13mm / .512'. did anyone face this particular problem and find a solution? any tip would be appreciated.
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let me add that if you do proper wraps, CP and Permagloss finish, you'll end up with quite a strong result, way beyond anything you can expect a 5wt to withstand. if you're not after marlins, don't worry about strength issues. It will be just fine.
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hi Don I've used polysheen both with and without CP. it reacts perfectly well to CP, and I think it's a classic thread for wrapping-- I'm not 100% sure though. here's the results of my CP test here you have a build I did with Polysheen Golden Grain (941), 2 coats of CP and 4 coats of Permagloss. without CP, I haven't had any silicone related problem, but maybe I was just lucky. I u
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I do it like Bill: glue the arbor into the seat, then ream to fit the blank. very sound advice he gives: be careful because the arbors ream really fast.
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slightly off topic, but I've had luck with Mattler's polysheen. huge color range.
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you're right Phil. I also find that going from 9' to 8'6 means a world of difference.
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OI think the best is to take the CCS measures on them. then you will be able to get precise answer from the experts here. if you don't know it, everything you may want to learn is there (also works if it's not a fly rod):
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when building a fly rod, I always experience the same disheartening process: the bare blank feels incredible, and as you go wrapping the guides, you feel you're just slowly spoiling it. (you'll feel it if you are -- as I'm afraid I am -- fool enough to play with an half wrapped rod. Very instructive, though. try it.) Eugene is right though: what happens in the lower half of a fast rod doesn't
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Let me chip in my .02 I've built once a fly rod on a RX6 6wt blank that was sent to me by mistake. I was in the market for a much faster and lighter blank, but I decided to build it anyway. But with 10 guides the thing had a serious back bounce problem, it was hard to go past 50' of line without the tip to start wobbling at the stop, sending waves in the rod leg of the loops. At 70' it was jus
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I'd rather go with single foot with short wraps too. Not necessarily REC though, many people can't stand the noise they make. 10 guides, many people use 2 'strippers', ie the two first (bigger) guides with an insert, typically in sizes 16 and 12, then I go with sf # 4/2/1/1/1/1/1/1 this way your build will retain as much as possible of the bare blanks qualities.
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no question is silly Andi the color preserver is a completely different product, and has virtually no gluing strength. you really need to put finish on your wraps (epoxy, or urethane, whatever floats your boat ^^)
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a rod *might* be more sensitive, Bill: the lever of the rod might act as an amplifier. wouldn't bet on it, though.
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Mail sent, thank you Sir. ^_^
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hi, do you ship overseas (to France eg.)?
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Joe, that's a lot of good ideas, thanks. I think vibration is not opposed to impulse, it's just a particular case but you're right, we shall concentrate on the general frame (even if I still think some of the more important aspect must be understood from the perspective of wave theory: (i) impulse propagates along the line and the rod as a wave; (ii) resonance and harmonics probably play an im
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Laurent: "Too fast" for a fly rod is a relative > quality. I cannot agree more. The rest of my sentence was meant to explain the phrase: imho, a rod is too fast for a fisher(wo)man when (s)he feels the need to overline it to fish properly. In such a case, I think (s)he would be better off wi
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You're right, Roger. Sensitivity is just a physical property, with no moral value. When using high vibration lures, such as spinners, you don't want the rod to be too sensitive. but then marketing does its thing, and who wants an insensitive rod ? or a slow one ? or to have low modulus ? I think that a considerable population of fishermen use wrong tools just because of this. (too fast fly rods
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Phil, the basic wisdom is quite well summarized in Tom's post. alas, there are complexities involved on the subject. leaving aside the ideal and useless case of a weightless perfectly rigid bar, the rod's ability to transmit vibration to the fisherman's hand depends also of the frequency of the vibration, so a given rod may be transmit well ("sensitive") some kind of imput and less we
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with an UL rig throwing 1-2g lures with very thin lines, what you should worry about is tangle. chose the guides that will minimize the weight and tangle possibilities
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I usually don't like paited blanks, as the paint is nothing more than dead weight. it's easy to sand it off. you can do it without any damage for the blank (actually it will marginally improve it) use caution and time, start with 320 grit, then 600 and 800 (or car polish if you like it to be absolutely top notch)
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