thanks Walt
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Sam: thanks, good idea. Ron: thanks a lots! I'll give my friend your mail, maybe he'll contact you.
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Chris, I sent you a mail. Eugene, thank you!
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bill I'm sorry but I can't find them anywhere. I'm not looking for a downlocking reel seat, but just a pair of metal rings to hold the reel foot, the kind you can see here:
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Roger: thank. I'm sorry, I should have been more precise, the slide rings are for a light fly rod, and should be metallic. Preferably gunsmoke or black.
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hi a friend of mine would like to buy a couple of rings/slide bands to hold the reel foot on a very light build. Do you know where one can buy them? thanks
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thanks, Russell!
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Russ: Phil is right, I'm more concerned with having enough power to lift heavy lines/flies, and having a good feedback on what happens to the fly than tippet protection -- which you don't need for pike. I've been told by several people that the HS9000 action is not that fast, but rather mod-fast. would you agree on that? Phil: you're right, it's worth a reminder. I'm guessing a couple of peop
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Phil: I'm quite familiar with the notion and the origins of the rod ratings, but thanks. If need be, I can specify a little: I'd like a bank with a tip action (aa>70) that would be able to aerialize more than 60' of a 9wt (ern>10.5). Ideally, the rod would have to be snappy (CCF around 90). the problem is that I couldn't find anywhere on the web the CCS for the relevant blanks, so I r
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I got some Info from them through a friend. I won't quote without permission, but the gist of the message is that the HS9000-2-MHX have been frequently build as a fly rod, and works well as a 8-9wt, with a kind of mod-fast action. That's good news. Now my main question is: how about the ST1022? how does it compare to the HS9000? If there's anyone with experience of these blanks, I'd be glad to
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I've been wanting to build a 9' 5wt, that is, after I've finished the 2 current projects and the next. ^_^ impressive CCS figures (ern=6.76, aa=72, ccf=89) and it should be noted, and I for one am grateful for it, that Pac Bay provides full CCS rating for the blanks, including the frequency. To the best of my knowledge, they are the only ones to do so. bravo!!
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Be sure to select "all dates" in the last option field
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Spencer: you're right, butt/tip ratio isn't the only way to control the action or the power of a blank. adding matter or using higher modulus carbon are other options, and I'm sure there's more. Russell: knowing our French waters, I doubt I'll be fighting a 40 pounder any time soon (even a 20 pound fish is quite unusual). Alas. You're right about the price of the blanks, even though the MHX ar
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Tom: that's exactly what I had in mind. everything being equal, higher butt/tip = tippier ("faster" but this is a misleading term) action
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James: not a bad idea to call NFC (but always kind of complicated, I'm French and in France, but nevermind) as for what you'll get from butt dia, I agree it's not a good indicator of *power* (ERN), but it 's more action (AA) i'm worried about here. at any rate, I just wanted to say that I'm looking for a very fast blank, and I expect its butt to be rather large. If it isn't, then it's even bett
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I have no idea who is the person in the video, but you can watch it here (with some comments of mine) : maybe someone with a better hear for English than mine will make out the reference of the blank.
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hi bill. actually, I've read about the 1/16 conversion in one of your past posts, so I know I'm not far off with the blanks I've chosen. having fished for long with light spinning built out of fly blanks, I'm a great believer in Tom's "a blank is a blank is a blank" principle. now, what I'm really looking for is some input about how such a rod would cast. there's a video on youtube
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thanks Eugene. all of them are a little on the heavy side (between 2.1 and 2.5 oz) with a fat butt. I don't mind a big butt on such a blank, since conicity will be the usual way to get a fast blank without adding weight.
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I'm going to build a fly rod for pike. I'll want it relatively short (8'to 8'6) and quite fast, and able to cast a 9wt line with ease. For various reasons including price and a compulsive tendency to experiment, I'm thinking a spinning blank would perhaps do the trick. I've seen references to such builds here and there on this forum, but more like a passing comment than an elaborate explanation
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Thanks for that, Dennis. I guess I could rephrase my question thus: have you always been familiar with the split grip design (for *light* rods), and if not, when did you first saw it?
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Oh, that's right... I feel a little stupid now. But then, for lighter rods? Was there a model that started the whole trend we see now?
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I can't find an answer anywhere to this simple historical question, so I thought maybe some of the knowledgeable people here who have been around quite a bit may know. Here it is: who 'invented' the split grip and when? What's the oldest model you know with this handle design? Any input appreciated, thanks.
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I guess you're right about the additives, but the remover I was using says 'no acetone'. It contains of acetate compounds though. It's just I read that with acetone, Permagloss required some work to clean off, and in that case the cleaning job is really just 5 seconds. Next layers went unproblematically, so no problem with curing, but black thread on dark brown makes it difficult to judge colorwi
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After reading here much praise about Permagloss, I decided to give it a try. I'm pleased with the results so far. I just wanted to share with you a little trick I just discovered, and did not find when searching the forum. When you want, as I just did tonight, to clean permagloss from a brush and you don't have U-40 brush cleaner, you may want to check the lady's beauty gear. If she has nail poli
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