Even if you take a nut out, you're still looking at a hefty 38 grams or so. I just put one on the Eternity 1064 because it's less of a problem for long euronymphing rigs to have some weight on the butt. But I agree with the others. I love the TRI, the quality and design is outstanding, but you really should have one in size 10 with a reasonable weight.
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I've tried the mhx, the rx8 and nfc's ST series. Man, if Aleks says they've got the blank, I'd run for it. They are something else, really.
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I just translated it in French for Rodhouse. It's quite a piece of work, Tom. Mandatory reading for anyone serious about rod building. Custom builder or not.
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--double post --
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No we're not, Phil. I'm talking 12-14+wt fly rods for pelagic fish, like for instance bluefin tuna. You'll get very long rushes from a 70lb tuna, and your line/backing will be "coming off the reel" indeed. It's been stated from the start by Tom that casting-wise, you won't gain anything with ceramics, and I agree. So it's been about fish fighting all along... I think ceramics were
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The weight penalty will be greatly reduced with Fuji torzite guides. But the cost is very high, for very little gain IMHO. Except if you're building a rod that will see hard rushes I to the backing regularly, I doubt it's worth it. For blue water type rods, though, where heat dissipation may be an issue, it could be worth
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Apologies for post clones. Something went wrong with my phone. Can someone delete these?
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I've built a cannon out of a hs9600-2 from mhx. AA=72 ERN=11.8 it's cool for powerfishing with small streamers (>3") But it's an arm crusher with large streamers. I'm with the guys who advocate midflex for 10wt+
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Check out Loomis' NFC blanks. Series C or SJ. Some of the very best around.
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Lance: thank you for your tip, Sir. I know the page you're pointing to. I just wondered if someone had done the fine tuning, it's for one of our French newbies.
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Dear all, I'm looking for a spacing chart for a rctb60h that will be wrapped in spiral (acid/brazilian style). anyone with some numbers? thanks;
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sorry I miss you reply Bill. aren't the minimas 4 too small for a 10wt ?
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Wise words, as usual. Thanks a lot, Tom.
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All right, thank you Tom. I've only fished Depthfinder lines and I think the line-leader sock would happily pass through a 6. have you ever build a fly rod with #8 fuji guides? aren't they really heavy?
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I'm going to build a 10wt for pike fishing with huge streamers, and I think I'll use alconite insert guides on it, probably Fuji BKTAG. What size should I use for the smallest guides? I'm thinking 6. If any of you has some experience with comparable rods, I'd be glad to hear about it. Thank you!
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Curtis: I've done that on a SPG601 I build as a sweet little 3wt fly rod, and it works a charm given the price of those blanks, I recommend to buy two, and sacrifice one to make the spigot. The RDR76L isn't as cheap as a SPG, but that will warrant you won't have any issue with shaping the spigot : the geometry is identical.
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Curtis: I've done that on a SPG601 I build as a sweet little 3wt fly rod, and it works a charm given the price of those blanks, I recommend to buy two, and sacrifice one to make the spigot. The RDR76L isn't as cheap as a SPG, but that will warrant you won't have any issue with shaping the spigot : the geometry is identical.
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I couldn't agree more. That's why forums like this one, educating people and spreading technically correct notions, are such a good thing for the sport. you need to know that this feeling you get because you just bought a fashionable brand does not translate easily into any technical claim. doesn't mean it shouldn't feel good to do so if you please, though. and we all are, in a form or anothe
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Hi Tamas! Just a remark : the CCF of a rod does not depend on the line, there no line involved when you measure it. If familiar with all the blank series you mention. I didn't measure le CCF of the rod I built but I'm fairly certain that the Quickline is the only one that will match your expectation. RX6/RX7 are way lower.
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I don't think it is that much subjective (even though there is indeed a matter of subjective taste) but what makes such a site useless is that the system that you test for a task includes the caster. it is especially true in fly fishing, but still holds for any for of fishing. that's why the conclusions of someone else regarding a blank is at best a guideline for you. I'm all for objective meas
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I'm so far it doesn't matter which side of the Mississippi I am, but count me in the Eternity / RX9 crowd. I've cast a ETEF906 and it's hands down the best 6wt I've handled. I can"t wait to get my 905, I'm expecting an absolute killer.
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RCLBs make very good jigging rods, lots of power for a surprisingly low weight. SW967 is quite versatile. here's some info
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Once you've got a measuring rig installed, it won't take much longer than a couple of minutes to CCS a blank. Just sayin'...
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You tie your own fly, right? So it was only natural. Plus you won't get a better rod for the price if you do it right. But actually I'm only in it to impress the ladies, and hey, Flexcoat, I think there's room for vast improvement here.
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What Bill says. The arm is what counts most, a good 8wt is nice, but good loop shape and line speed is better achieved through instruction.
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When you go for cheap, go for short. The short blanks are way easier to build, since the hardest part is to control tip bounce, which is always less on shorter rods. I'd definitely chose an 8'6. RX6 blanks are awesome for the price if you like moderate actions (which is just what you seem to look for).
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I love many Batson products, I use them and say so on my blog and forums, but I pretty much doubt those changes have anything to do with the end customer's best interest. It's just brand restructuration for marketing purposes. We lost the searchable catalogue, and the prices, to get a pdf instead... I agree with Michal, the family business touch I loved seems to be gone. "Our main goal i
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