Jay, Would starting with a shape similar to the forward section of the Maniform fly grip be in the ballpark?
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I'd drop one power rating tro the IP 963 on the popping blank, another I'd look at would be the Rainshadow IST993F steelhead blank. I always thought it would a dandy bonefish rod.
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Only once a few years ago. I had a good experience, but I live only one state away so it was pretty quick.
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Angler's Workshop carries the grips in stock at all times. Not sure who their supplier is, but they are nice grips.
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Val, First did you check for blank trueness before the build, your small deflection may actually be in the blank in which case you never get it out completely. I look down the blank, guides down, against a light/white wall and split the guides in half as I look at it. Also having the guides off a little won't effect performance in the slightest so don't get to upset about it.
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I've been corrected, thanks Steve. I need some coffee I guess to wake up what left of the brain cells, the wife says I'm getting more AllTheTimers everyday. Just came back from my annual Alaska trip and I still remember that I can't stay there all summer so I guess it's not to bad yet.
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Andrei, I think a cent weighs 3.33 grains if I remember right. It's in the Common Cents Info site to the left for the correct info.
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The IP841 I built was also a fast tipped rod, a little lighter powered version of the Loomis P8400 or Shikari P7000 blanks.
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Karry Batson's suggestion of the ISA 1087 is a good choice for an all around great rod.
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Adrian, Not sure about the application, but I do know that shortening the rod will not make it more solid. Shortening the bottom will make the blank slower and have less power. Taking it off the top will slow the action and not change the power.
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X3, great people to do business with.
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Braided line in itself will not effect the guides in anyway that the mono won't. However, the sand on that beach "IN" the braided line can. The braided line will not be affected by guide type pro or con.
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Andrei, If you read the guide placement article in the library it will anwser many questions. If a guide using static displacement falls on a ferrule so much the better, as it decreases the amount of wraps and finish on the rod, which increses performance a sensitivity. Blank backbone can not be controlled with the guides as far as I can see, it's designed into the blank structure and again any
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With Andy's new burl strip material couldn't we bond some to the end of an existing ring of the same material and finish it as we want? Andy also told me once he could give me larger rings, maybe he can come up with some rings with no holes. I've been just using parts of a burl ring to make a plug and using that, but I can see a larger diameter blank not being as easy.
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I think the guide foot length that Hopkins and Holloway HSLG fly guides would be a good starting point to test from. They are about half the wrap length of many SF fly guides and I haven't had anyone have problems with them.
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Ripping jerkbaits, pulling/pausing a floating or suspending stickbait back to the boat is the technique. A good crankbait blank works well here. Some like a shorter/short grip rod for this technique and topwaters as the short length makes the presentation easier and more consistent and the shorter rear grip isn't hitting your arm/ clothing/ etc. The longer the rod the more small differences in pr
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You can also use a REC RSN or RSNX fly guide as a hookeeper and keep everything Titanium. A size 1 would probably be about right.
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One of my all time favorite trout rods was the old 9 ft 9in 2 piece 5 wt GL3s.
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I wouldn't worry about it Rod Bond, as Bill said, is good stuff. Tried getting it to fail once in a test that was admittedly not very scientific or correct, but it showed what the stuff will take. I glued two nuts to a scrap of blank and than tried to break the bond by twisting the nut off the blank while it was cramped in a vise. The blank failed at over 30 ft lbs of torque.
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Nice blanks that fish well. A good yeoman like hardy blank and rod. Nice rods to learn and improve with. The GL3 matt finishes have been known to be damaged by normal rodbuilding chemicals such as acetone or denatured alcohol. Use them so infrequently anymore to know if they fixed this. The Rainshadow RX7s are similar.
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Lighter back bouncing blanks and the hotshot blanks would deserve a look.
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The 6 to 12 lb blanks Steve suggested will work great. The 7000 has about 1/3 of the blank all tip than firms quickly, the 702 is more in line of the blanks we use for bass, just lighter powered. About to first 1/4 is tip than firms up, but not as abruptly as the 7000.
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I respectfully disagree, some of my most sensitive rods are also more moderate actioned, I believe this is a place where hype has exceeded actual real world results.
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Having a ferrule on a rod doesn't make it less sensitive. The amount of 7 ft rods that fit your criteria is pretty large. 7 1/2 ft thins it down greatly. Hence the fly rod blank suggestion. Fly blanks are usually a little lighter in weight in general, which improves sensitivity much more than ferrules remove it. The design and lightness of the components will be more important than the small dife
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Do a search of Bob Meiser's post and about 18 months-2 years ago he listed his grip configuration used on his switch blanks and the Dan Craft 10 ft blanks that he tried. I believe the foregrip was 10 1/2 inches and the rear grip somewhere in the 3 inch range. Pictures of his configuration is on his site, the shorter of the two grip lengths in the pics. Bob's blanks and especially his rods are pri
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That's the reason I built my own, no way of knowing exactly what a spoonplugging rod from Buck was. There is a pretty good discription of it anf why he uses that length in the book and training course, and I had a spoonplugger in Cheboygan, Michigan that suggested the Lamiglas blank.
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Are we talking jigs under bobbers over brush piles or an on your own jig, beetlespin, roadrunner type setup? For the latter I'd look at a 4 power or lighter fly blank.
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Check out R.B. Meiser's site to the left. If there is a better selection of quality blanks and freely given well of information, I don't know about it.
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I have an old FenGlass FS-53 UL that I used on the tribs of the Truckee and the Rubicon. It's a pretty special way of fishing, usually by yourself except for the gold prospectors in the summer sometimes.
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I got mine from the store at Fishing Facts Magazine many many years ago and I also have the huge training course which fills up one of the big binders completely. Made my spoonplugging rod on the Lamiglas 5 ft 6 in XC66MH blank. My training course also had a source of spoonplugs in it, I'll have to look, they may still be available. Someone on a forum some time ago told me that the book was also
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