Thanks Tom
Forum: rodboard

I'm wondering if it's possible to add marbeling pigment or Testors paint to Lumiseal or Permagloss?
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I just wrapped some guides w/ metallic thread and hopefully will never have to do it again. It can be done. But, it's not fun. Keep it as trim.
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The Fuji info is just what I was looking for. Thanks
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I checked YouTube and GB w/out any luck. Just wondering what the perfect line path looks like. I have my opinion. But, I'd like to see what others think. Following the rod bend seems a bit generic.
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Does anyone have any pic's or video footage of a correct static testing done on a spinning rod?
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I guess I'm just a bit lazy. I have a CCS board set up in the garage where I can do static test. But, most of the rods I build are in the winter and I don't want to spend time in the cold. I saw a static deflection tool for sale that would allow me to bring the testing inside. Probably give that a try. Thanks
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Maybe just a ploy to sell more guides?
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Recently purchased one of the Am. Tack. Guide Location Chart's for micros & concepts. Put my first rod on it (a 7 1/2' spinning rod) and came up w/ 11 concept guides needed. Seems like too many to me. But, it looks fine. It appears from the chart that really no matter what the action (arc) of your rod, it's going to show the need for more guides than the traditional length + 1 method. I was
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Would it help then (when time to tie off diamond design) to cp up to the point you want to tie off design, wrap your holding wrap back over design and then cut the excess off? Seems the cp would help the design to stay in place after its anchor is cut. Does this make any sense?
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I can't remember if you need cp on metallic thread or not. If I remember correctly it doesn't absorb any finish. So, I would think it doesn't by its very nature. Not sure. Thanks, Todd
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I'm confused about the line drawn on the piece of paper that represents the blank. You then do all your measurements and calculations from/to that point. But, the reel will be in a reel seat, not flat on the blank. I would think that small bit of space would be important in getting the optimum measurements. Does this make any sense?
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I'm getting some crazy numbers that can't be right. Can't find what I may be doing wrong. Going back to the tried and true.
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I agree completely w/ you guys. Thanks for the confirmation.
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I'm thinking about building some 7' spin & cast rods. I'd like to do 2 pc. rods bcs a 1 pc. won't fit as easily in the back of my truck or inside our Commander. Should be much easier to transport. I feel that w/ today's technology in blank manufacturing, I shouldn't be sacrificing a great deal of sensitivity or performance. A bit of added weight I expect. Can anyone give me some real life te
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CTS has the best blanks and you can get them in pink. I'm building it right now for my wife. However, I ordered it over the winter bcs it will take a month+ to receive.
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I think I'm just going to go w/ the normal set-up like my other 6'6", med. spin rods. Probably a little tweak. Technically, it looks like I would need a 30, 25, 16, 10 and runners in order to get the best line path. I feel that's just to much guide weight on the rod. I don't think I'll be giving away much casting distance or accuracy. Thanks
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I'm sorry, I don't understand.
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Unfortunately, I don't have all the required sizes to try the scenarios. But, I can see that I'm going to have to start w/ a #30 (by using my caliper and the Fuji spec sheet). However, as they line up, it looks like the 30, 25, 20, 12, runners. But, the amount of weight this adds is troubling. And the expense of the titanium frames (to reduce the weight) at these sizes is worse. If I cut out th
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I'm not sure if even w/ a #30 I can get the guide within the 18-22" distance. I'm using a wide spool reel. So, I guess that distance changes a bit. But, how far is too far?
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I'm sure this has been asked but can't find the info. The new K series guides have such a forward angle to them that when I place the choker and then run the line from my reel spool, the first guide (stripper) is a mile away from the spool lip. Does his mean I now have to use a size #30 as my first guide and not the #25 I've always used in the past? Or, can I just line them up to match my other
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I'm building a couple of spinning rods right now w/ the K series guides. I sure hope they help w/ the tangles bcs I do love braided line.
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I always go w/ the butt of the rod hitting right in the "meat" of the underside of my forearm. Place the seat wherever it falls.
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IMO, CTS makes the best blanks if you can wait for delivery. The Batson RX8 are a great value.
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It's been forever since I've built a bait casting rod and I have a few questions. First, I fish mainly for smallmouth on med. to small rivers here in the semi-midwest (Ohio) and would like to use the baitcaster for throwing buzzbaits, spinnerbaits & such. I've pretty much decided on the blank. But, I have a question about guides and set-up. I was thinking of using the spiral wrap and was wo
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It's been awhile since I read it. But, that's what I thought and how I have them set up. Thanks
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One more question. Is the choker guide going to be a high framed guide? I've been using the low framed fly guides for the choker and runners. Of course, they don't make a high framed #6 so I guess they'd have to be low frame.
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Sorry. Change that #8 to a #10. Looking down the guides (first three), they do look good as far as being concentrically sound. I don't know, maybe I'm just imagining it. Back to more testing. Thanks guys.
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Congratulations Andy. They couldn't have found a better man. But, don't forget us inshore freshwater river smallie junkies. We need your expertise designing the next great bronzeback sticks. Have fun, Todd
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I've been using 20lb power pro braid on a 6'6" Medium action spin rod. First guide is #25, #16, #8, & 5 #6's for runners. Total of 8 guides. There just seems to be friction when casting. And this is with normal spool spin reels. Not the mag spool. I just got it and have only tried it on the rod I repositioned the guides on. It seems to cast much smoother. However, I have gone to #15 br
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