I've actually read all the articles and followed the directions. I think I have used too small of runner guides. That may be part of the problem. I don't know if the larger spool has increased casting distance. But, it certainly hasn't decreased. I wanted to see if it would cut down on the nasty loops that the braided lines seem to invent. So far it has had a dramatic effect.
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I just bought a new BPS spinning reel w/ the mag-spool technology. I have to admit, it seems great so far. But, it brings up a question about the first guide size. Normally I start w/ a #25 Concept guide. But, I'm wondering if Fuji's suggestion of a #30 (which I've always felt was just too big) might work better w/ these reels. Anybody have any experience w/ this? Also, I've always used the gu
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Great info guys. It doesn't have to be spotless or factory finish good. But, as good as I can get it. Thanks
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Thanks. I think your answer was more towards if I'm wrapping back over the exact same place. I'm talking about the area left when a guide is moved and the old spot is left exposed.
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I'm always experimenting with different kinds of guides and their placement. So, I was wondering if there is anything you can do with the area of the blank that once had the guide placed on it but now only has the scar (if you will) of old finish. Permagloss over the area? Any other tricks? Thanks, Todd
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I personally prefer the Fuji high frame "concept" spinning guide(s) for my stripper guide. I feel its a freer line arc from my hand or reel to that first guide. If that makes sense. I think it gives me better initial line flow. Just my $.02.
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It's funny how every new thing (technology) is a secret that has just now been released by the military or NASA. Probably a very nice rod. But, hype is hype.
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I wouldn't look to a company like Orvis (who doesn't even manufacture there own blanks) to be the "cutting edge" of blank technology. I read one post from a guy who had bought one and he did like it. But, he said one of the ways they reduced the weight is by using a cheaper reel seat as compared to the nice nickel silver seats found on higher end rods. Orvis sells a lifestyle (of which
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I'm thinking about trying one of the Fuji VSS seats but not sure it would work for my application. From the pictures I've seen, it looks as though it mounts with the threads forward (front) and the hood with the palm(?) support in the rear. Also, is this a blank exposed seat? I'm a bit confused by the only pictures I can find and their descriptions. Thanks, Todd
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I think I read (and tried to search) that you're suppose to apply second coat of Threadmaster before the first coat is completely set-up. I coated with TM original last night and would like to try a coat of TM Lite over top. Should I do it now while the original finish is still not completely set up? Also, I think one of the parts with TM is the same for the original formula and the Lite formula
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I personally stick with the Fuji Ti tip top even with Recoil guides just because the Recoil tips look so chincy. I honestly don't trust them. Plus the tip is where I want everything to really flow and it's the place that takes the most pressure. So, I go with the ceramic, which may weigh a tad bit more, for the security and performance.
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I'm not putting down the Am. Tac. Titan guides. But, I doubt that they're lighter than the Fuji's. Less expensive, yes. Better quality, no.
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I'm a huge believer and user of the Fuji Ti framed guides on my fly rods. However, a 4 wt. would probably have me looking at the other guides you mentioned. I've used the Recoils on a few and they are very light. I would think the H&H guides would also be lighter and very nice. Either of those will probably give you the best performance out of the lighter rod. Have Fun, Todd
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Unfortunately, I've had similar results with TML. I mix it the exact way I mix the regular TM and I've had two batches that never hardened completely. Luckily it was only a couple guides each time. Maybe the batch was too small like stated in earlier posts. In the exact same conditions and amounts, regular TM is perfect. I'm absolutely positive on the 1:1 mix so I don't have a clue what the probl
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I too have only built on the CTS (no drop shot ) blanks and not the Batson's. The spinning rods (and fly) I've built on CTS blanks are the best rods I've fished to this point in my life. The blanks are straight and beautiful. Very light, sensitive, and yet powerful. I do think the CTS blanks are lighter than any other rods on the market due to their technology. Others make claims. But, none can m
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I need an epoxy that will act as a filler as well as an adhesive. I don't even want to get into the problem I've created. Will Rod Bond or Ultimate Gel work? Or, are they only going to work from surface to surface? Thanks for any help. Todd
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I don't think I could effectively throw the size bugs and flies I like for smallmouth fishing with a 5wt. Maybe that's because I'm not a good enough caster. But, the 7 wt. handles them wonderfully and feels very comfortable. Like you said, that's the key. Find what is comfortable for your style.
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The question is between stream or river. A 5 wt. is a great creekin' rod. But, try to turn a 20" smallie on a river with rapids, strong currents, ledges, grass, large boulders, etc. with a 5 wt. and it ain't going to happen. Especially if you're wading. The last thing you want is to lose the big pig of a lifetime because you're fishing too light. As for the Dancraft Five Rivers. They're ext
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Check out the CTS Affinity MX 9' - 4 pc. - 8 wt. I think Fishsticks4u still has one in stock. I've got a 7 wt. that I've used on the New River throwing some big bugs for big smallies. The 8 wt. might be better for big largemouth. Fantastic bass rod. Lighter and better performance than anything I've ever used.
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All I know is that is a much more effortless cast with the ceramics. That may just be how it feels to me. But, I don't see how I would get that feel if the line isn't moving with more ease through the guides. It's very pronounced. I don't think it necessarily gives me any more added distance, per se. Just a much easier, quicker, more fluid lift, back cast, load and forward cast.
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I've used the Fuji solid titianium SiC ring guides and the Recoils. I love the dampened feel of the ceramics and can guarantee my line speed is far greater than with the Recoils. They also make no noise and load and cast effortlessly. If you can't tell, I'm a big fan. But, everybody has a different "feel" they're looking for. Todd
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I took some advice and bought some of the less expensive guides in every size. Then, set up the rod and buy only the size you need. You only have to buy the full set once and it's a good investment.
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Different strokes for different folks. That's what makes this sport so great.
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Not saying their magic. Just really good guides that are very light and very durable. I don't think I'd use them for heavy saltwater use or where braided lines will carry alot of dirt. And I don't use their tips. But, for med/light to med/heavy spinning situations, great guides.
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The Recoils are a Nickel Titanium alloy. Not titanium. I've found them very durable and have had no problems with grooving. They're extremely light and cast great. Todd
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I personally recommend the CTS blanks. I've fished with some of the rods you mentioned and they're good blanks. But, CTS is a step ahead in design which makes for the highest performance blanks I've ever fished. Todd
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I've had the Recoils on my spinning rod for a couple of months with braided line. No problems. But, I don't use their tips because they look so chincy (sp.) that I don't trust them. Plus, it's the place that sees the most direct wear. Fuji solid titanium, SiC ring tips are the best. I don't know if in heavier fishing/lined situations it may be a problem. But, I'm not worried on the med/light t
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I personally prefer the Fuji Titanium Sic guides. Very expensive. But, very light and strong. The best. I'm now testing some of the REC Recoil spinning guides and like them very much. Extremely light. I don't know anything about the other designer type guides (colors & such). As for your guide sizes, IMO you have way too many sizes. Like I said, use the "concept guide" technique
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I think the Recoils would work fine for either rod. Very light and give a crisp, clean feel to the rod. I'm now a big fan of the Titanium SiC guides on fly rods. I don't think they're overkill for freshwater because their reduced weight compared to any stainless guide. Even on an 8wt., I wouldn't want that extra weight. Titanium all the way (if you can afford it). IMO Have fun, Todd
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No matter what guides or line, I would use the "new concept" technique in the library. Can't go wrong. Let it determine size and spacing of guides. www.rodbuilding.org/library/newguide.html
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