It would be interesting to measure the CCS intrinsic power and Action angle on your shortened fly rod blank. If for nothing else than for comparison purposes, and having the hard data on hand. Norm
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It’s probably broken. Many times when one tries to over tighten the hood, the the hood that good over the reel foot breaks away from the the threaded collar. If you don’t have a fore grip, it’s fairly easy to replace the hood unit with a new one. Basically, the hood is large enough to pass over most of the guides with the possible exception of the stripper itself. So just remove a guide or two, r
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I bought the NFC 905-5F, it a very nice blank for $95 but had to wait over 3 months to get it. The best high end fly rod blanks I have used are the CTS blanks, but they cost much more. The MHX native are also very nice as well as the Rainshadow Eternity. If you get the NFC fly rod just be prepared to wait, but is very nice and the price is right. Norm
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Page 32 of the catalog describes the S guides. Norm
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The ones with no B or R suffix are the hialoy guides and don’t have a shock ring. I don’t know the difference between TiO and TiOx designations, I assume they both denote titanium oxide rings. The S guides are an old fashion style stamped frame guide. The titanium oxide rings are more brittle than the hialoy (hard aluminum oxide) and use a shock ring to hold them in place. The size of the ring
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Some of the PacBay S guides come with a plastic shock ring to hold the the titanium oxide ceramic ring in place. B stands for a black shock ring and R stands for a green shock ring. The S guides with a hialoy ceramic insert do not use a shock ring. Norm Ps - They do not come in a size 14.
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Curtis, if you are not fishing heavy, cover, pads or weeds then you really don’t need an extremely powerful rod. Here are a few rods on which I have CCS intrinsic power numbers. This may give you something for comparison purposes. MHX MB874 - IP = 1047 gm MHX SJ 843 - IP = 900 gm PointBlank 731HXF - IP = 947 gm PointBlank 731MHXF - IP = 813 gm Point Blank 701MH. - IP = 800 gm Rainshado
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I think St Croix should send you the guide you need. If not try Hydra they do sell Kigan guides. Norm
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Here’s a picture from Photos section showing the cutter. Norm
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Did you use medical syringes to measure your epoxy? If so that could be the source of contamination. Most medical syringes are siliconized to prevent any type of sticking. Norm
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That is a better choice for your heavier tackle. Norm
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What Mark suggests may work just fine. In addition, I might even try to reposition the guides so I put a guide right on the damaged area to give additional reinforcement and to hide the repair. If the splinter has broken away from the blank then there is no guarantee the repair will hold. Norm
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Since the PacBay F4w does not have a ceramic ring, it’s ID is just about the same as a size 5 ceramic guide. Unless of course you are comparing Torzite or SeaGuide RS guides. Norm
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One thing that might help is to wrap the splintered area with thread and give it a coat of finish. This may help to reinforce the area. If this is a new rod, the graphite should not splinter like that, I would certainly contact the manufacturer and see if it is covered by a warranty. You have nothing to lose, the worst thing that can happen is they say no. Norm
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The fused line would be considered braid in the GPS. Norm
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If the finish just came off then no problem, However, if the graphite splintered off then you will have a weak spot that may break at sometime in the future. Norm
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Will you’re using braid or mono/fluorocarbon line? If using braid seriously think about reducing your reel size. A size smaller reel will hold more braid than a larger reel will hold mono or fluorocarbon. So if using braid you really don’t need larger reels, line capacity is there. If you are going to be using heavy mono or fluorocarbon than use the New guide concept. I have several 8,5 to 9’ h
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I would strip the blank as Mark suggested. It is not that difficult to do, and goes very quickly. I use a utility knife, it’s just a single edge blade with a handle. Scrape by holding the blade perpendicular to the blank. The finish will come off easily and this does not harm the blank. After scrapping I wet sand with 800 to 1500 grit wet/dry paper. This will remove all traces of old finish, an
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In my opinion MHX and crb blanks have the best warranty and customer service around. Never had a problem dealing with them. You will probably be able to keep the broken rod and it can be repaired with a plug. If you need a how to do it let us know. Or you can salvage the components and use them on the new blank. Norm
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Post a picture maybe someone here may have what you want. Norm
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Small Plastic tie wraps will work. Norm
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Remove the guides, and scrape the the paint and old finish off with a utility knife or single edge razor blade held perpendicular to the blank. The old finish will come off quite easily. This does not hurt the blank at all. When finished scraping wet sand the blank with 800 to 1500 grit wet/dry paper to remove all traces of the old finish. Again this does not hurt the blank it is almost like poli
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I love recycling parts from or repairing broken rods. There are a lot of kids around here that get free rods from me. I also donate them to causes that help needy kids go fishing. Part of the fun of rod building is seeing a big smile on a kid’s face. Some of these kids are adults now and have passed the rods down to their kids. I have also sent a lot of old salvaged parts to other rods builders
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They do wear down, I have had a couple on my crappie jig rods for about 4 to 5 years now and they are starting to show some wear and tear. My jig rigs are set up with the reel at the very end of the rod, so I’m always holding on to the grip. They get very heavy use during the crappie spawn. They are quite comfortable, and wear relatively well, but don’t last forever. Norm
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It takes no more time to salvage the carbon fiber grips than the guides. These grips are basically bullet proof. If it’s usable why not salvage it? The ones I salvaged are on other rods currently being enjoyed and used, with no loss of function. Of course I had the proper tools for doing the job. I have had the cork borers for over forty years, and like I’ve said they come in very handy for doing
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Use the two line method for doing the static test. Pass the line from the reel through the guides and tip top and tie on a light weight and let it hang from the tip of the rod. Now tie another line to the tip top and attach this line to an immovable object or a very heavy weight. Doing it their way the rods bends naturally and the bend is not influenced by the guides, plus guides will not torque
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I have used cork borers for many years, they come in handy for various tasks. They come in various sizes and store nestled together, and are basically a sharpened piece of metal tubing with a handle. I just recently removed several carbon fiber foam core grips from broken rods. Selected a cork borer that matched the blank diameter and twisted into the grip and the grip came off very nicely. The f
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If you are just starting, I would suggest using B or D. For a beginner they are easier to use and pack better, and still give good looking wraps. Even though size D thread is about twice the diameter of A, it takes half as much D to wrap the same distance, making the difference in weight negible. Once coated with finish very difficult to tell the difference. Size B or C gives you something in b
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The size 20 Y guide you want to use is approximately the same height as a Fuji KL16H, and for a 2000 (20) series reel the stripper would be perfectly fine at about 19” in front of the spool. This would place the choke guide at about 19” in front of the stripper, which is right at the calculated 27X choke point. Progressively place you 12Y and 8Y between the stripper and choke guide (first runni
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If you are a slow worker don’t go to warm with the temperature, Thread master is one of the quickest setting epoxy around, if you have the room too warm your working time will decrease dramatically.. Norm
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