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Current Page: 67 of 136
Results 1981 - 2010 of 4069
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Crystallization is not not a problem just heat the resin and the crystals will dissolve. The Hardener will have a yellow or amber cast to it from the start and it will get darker with time. Neither of these problems will prevent the epoxy from setting up. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
You can’t it the nature of the beast. Almost all epoxy finishes will yellow with time. The only epoxy I have ever used that is water clear is the new Crystal Coat from CTS. There have been several recent posts concerning it. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
If it feels good to you in your mock up, go with it. Handle length is a personal thing, and is one of things that makes a custom rod custom. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Jim has been explaining both the NGC and KR concept for quite awhile. Almost everything you read on-line about these two guide concepts, that actually make sense, have been written by Jim. I initially learned how to set up the KR concept from one of his articles written shortly after the KR concept came to the US. I have been using braid for a very long time, and played around with Match guides a
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
I would certainly rethink using mono, I would go with braid 20 to 30 pound test. The actual breaking strength will be at least double as what is listed. In addition braid will cast much better than mono and is more sensitive. I would use a mono or fluorocarbon leader attached to the braid via an FG knot. Braid also increases line capacity, and thus a smaller and lighter reel can be used. This wil
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
The use of a KW reduction guide train would be a NewGuide Concept (NGC) build, and the use of a KLH reduction guide train would be a KR concept build they are different. A KR concept build would work just fine with the rod you want to build it would be lighter than using KW guides, making the rod lighter and more fun to fish. However, your size grouping for a KR concept is not correct. I would
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
With the tip pointing up for spinning rod I always put the guides on the bottom (convex side), the weight of the guides will straighten the rod due to gravity. For a casting rod just the opposite with the guides on the top (concave side). This Increases dead lift power and stores and releases more energy when casting. Doing it the other way just accentuates the bend, and I personally don’t like t
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
I have built on a number of the American Tackle Matrix fly rod blanks. They are surprisingly nice blanks for the money. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Customer service at its best! Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
The T2 frame and the T frame with the slim Sic and the regular Sic ring, respectively, are basically the same price. The T2 frame and slim Sic are just slightly less expensive.. I do like the looks of the T2 frame. The Torzite rings increase the overall price by about 20%. T2RVSG6 = $9.65, TRVSG6 = $10.49, and TRVTG6 = $12.59. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Thomas, another thing I was made aware of by Jim Ising, is that the RV6 total height is not as important as the ring height from the blank. Both the RV6 and KW10 have the bottom of ring at approximately the same height above the blank. That is why they can be used interchangeably. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
The RV stripper you want for your bass casting rod Is either the T2RVSG6, or TRVSG6, or TRVTG6, they were designed to be used as a stripper for KR casting rods. The T2 designation stands for the black titanium frame which only comes with the slim Sic (S) ring. The T stands for the regular titanium frame which comes with the regular Sic(S) or Torzite (T) ring. The T(T2)LRVS(T)G guides are new, an
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Phil, my experience suggests that it is tack free but still soft after 12 hrs. If needed the second coat could then be applied. I turned my rotators off after about 6 hrs. I would not fish the rod until at least 36 to 48 hrs have past when it is fully cured. Once it has fully cured it is very hard and holds up well. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Good job Mark. I still have samples I mixed over 6 months ago, and still water clear and colorless. The 3R:2H volume to volume ratio is given by CTS on their web site, but not in the instructions supplied with the product I found that the left over Crystal Coat mixture can be put in the refrigerator or freezer and reused the next day for applying the second coat. Herb Ladenheim had mentioned do
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Measure where you want the butt end of the reel seat to be. If the ID of reel seat is slightly smaller you can ream the seat to get a perfect fit. In my opinion, It’s better for the ID to be a little smaller than larger. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
The topic of refinishing a blank has been covered numerous times on this site. Most people agree that Permagloss is an excellent clear coat that is very light, flexible, hard, durable and will never yellow. I did a search using Permagloss application using all dates, and there is a wealth of information in that search, plus a lot of reading. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
If I were you I would not coat the blank with any thing. A matte blank with epoxy finished wraps looks just fine. If it’s not broken don’t fix it! Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Soller Composites for any type of sleeve you want. US Composites for the polyurethane foam Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
I Used to ream the arbors before installing the reel seat, and quickly found they are very prone to splitting when you slide them down the blank to see if they fit. I addition, you are just as prone to ream off center or over ream with the arbor alone as when it’s glued into the seat. I personally find it much easier to center ream with the arbors in the seat. I let the seat slip in my hands whil
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
The only problem with the foam arbors is that they are expensive when compared to dry wall tape. For $10 you can get almost a lifetime supply of dry wall tape, and for the same price foam arbors will do a lot fewer rods. However, the foam arbors work very well, and I like them. Just make sure you glue them in the reel seat before reaming, otherwise they are prone to splitting. They ream very eas
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Here is his Facebook link, it has his contact info. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
There are two ways I install reel seats. First, and most preferred by me, is to epoxy foam arbors into the reel seat and when cured ream to fit the blank. I cut the foam arbors into 1” pieces and use three or four per seat depending on the length. The second way, is to use dry wall tape. I use this method when the space to fill is not that large. I tack the dry wall tape to the blank using super
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
You may be able to salvage the reel seat off by heating it with a heat gun or boiling water. The heat may soften the epoxy enough so you can twist the reel seat off. The arbor will act as an insulator and prevent the blank from heating up too much. This has worked quite well for me, if it doesn’t come off easily then the Dremel tool works great, just don’t cut too deep and damage the blank. Again
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
No, as Jim mentioned he was still working on that part of the specs. You have to remember that flipping a heavy weight is not the same as.casting one. The IP of 895 gm puts it into what most would consider to be MH to H power, certainly not having an IP value of over 1000 + grams common with most flipping sticks. The Action angle of 66 indicates it’s what most would consider a moderate to modera
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Here is Jim ising’s Original post on the blank. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Go to your local sporting good stores and see if they have any broken rods. A lot of times they will just give them to you. Or check with a local rod builder, most will have a stash of broken rods and may be willing to find a piece that will fit. Flea markets, Salvation Army, Good will, other types of junk shops, even your fishing friends may have junk rods. Just look around. Can also use an in
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Choke guide position is not written in stone. Both the 27X and reel up sweep methods are merely suggestions. There is quite a bit of flexibility in setting up a guide train. Do it both ways, static test and then test cast both, then move things around and see which works the best. Everyone knows when a rod casts well. The use of braid allows for a lot flexibility in setting up a guide train. Wh
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
I agree with both Lynn and Russel to try and repair the butt section, if you want to keep it as a fly rod. A break in this portion of the rod is relatively easy to fix without affecting function or feel. Norm
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
Denham, the CPB761HM is very a new Point Blank addition and has not been listed on the Anglers Resource’s website. Contact Jim Ising at Anglers Resource. I think he will be more than happy to fill you in on this blank. I personally own and use several rods built on Point Blank and have made a number of them for other die hard bass fishermen, and we all love them. Even though they are very light
Forum: rodboard
4 years ago
Norman Miller
It is amazing how much space the shock and ceramic rings take up in these old style guides. Modern guides are a heck of a lot better, no shock rings, much thinner and stronger ceramics that are deep pressed into the frames. In addition the modern guides are also much lighter. Norm
Forum: rodboard
Current Page: 67 of 136

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