No they are not a Fuji kit! I have talked to Anglers Resource about this. If you are going to use a KR concept, then use Fuji’s recommendations, they did a lot of research to perfect this concept. You can use either the KL25H or KL20H based reduction train, both will work just fine. However, the KL25H based reduction train will give you a little more versatility if you ever want to use a large
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Don’t use the Mudhole kit!!! Mudhole doesn’t use the proper Fuji recommended KR concept guides in their kits. With a 40 (4000) sized reel and 20 lb braid use either the 20H, 10H, and 5.5M or 25H, 12H, and 5.5M guides for the reduction train. Followed by KB/KT runners all the same size in the size of your choice, ie size 5.5, 5, or 4.5. Use at least 2 KB running guides, with the rest being KT run
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The KL-H guides are only used for building a KR concept rod, the KL guides are used to build a New Guide Concept rod. Both will work, but I much prefer the KR concept. Use the KR GPS for doing your guide layout if doing a KR concept. Use the other GPS if doing a NGC. Look at the post below yours. If you have specific questions ask them, we are more than happy to help. Norm
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Many people when building a casting surf rod do like a short rear grip of cork or EVA, because they hold the grip and not the reel seat. The length of this rear grip is of your choosing, probably between 3” to 5”. The rest of the rear section of handle could be cork tape, shrink tubing, or nothing. EVA, like cork, can be trimmed to length, sanded to shape, and reamed to fit the blank. You are usi
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No wonder for your confusion. The GPS used for a NGC layout will not give you a very good layout when using KR guides. As I mentioned before the two GPS programs at Anglers Resource are not compatible, and are used for two different guide concepts. For a KR concept layout only use the KR GPS, it will give you a very good starting point. I would use 10 total guides on that rod. If you need help w
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If you want to use a KR concept then use the KR GPS, not the NGC GPS. They are not compatible. What’s the total length of your rod, and what is the distance from the butt to the front of the reel spool? With a 4000 size reel you will either use the KL25H, KL12H, and KL5.5M or KL20H, KL10H, and KL5.5M reduction guide train, followed by KB/KT runners in the size of your choice. Also let us know wha
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Most probably color preserver. The epoxy sits on top of the CP and hairline cracks may show up.when stressed.
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Using the BYAG reduction guides with the BLAG runners would be considered a New Guide Concept (NGC). The use of KL-H reduction guides with KB/KT runners would be considered a KR concept. Both concepts will work just fine for what you want to do. However, I prefer the KR concept because it will be lighter, and I think it will performs better. The KR concept was designed for use with braid in mind,
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Made a lot of work for your self! Didn’t need to ream the the grips to fit graphite foam arbors, could have used a layer or two of dry wall tape to form a bushing on the blank. It would have easily given you a snug and very light bushing, which would have been covered by a winding check with no modifications. The hidden thread hood with the carbon fiber sleeve are not normally used with a windin
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Another option would be the Point Blank PB691MHXF. They are great blanks, and make into very nice rod for working top water baits, I’ve used them for catching redfish in the Mississippi and Louisiana marshes. Norm
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They do make UL casting reels they are called Bait Finesse System (BFS) reels. They are extremely light but come with a hefty price tag. Norm
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Boy, casting that rod sounds like a chore. I was just wondering how the line ran through those tiny guides. What the heck are you going to use it for? Or is it going to just be a conversation piece. Might be a fun rod if you had a decent reel. Norm
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Most important question is how does it cast? Norm
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Spencer is correct, a size 5 runner is considered on the large end for micro guides. I normally use size 4.5 or 4. Some prefer really small guides down to size 3 to 2 mm. I personally do not care for guides smaller than a 4. However, the 5s will perform quite well. It’s all a matter of personal preference. Build what you are happy with, after all it’s a custom rod.for you. Norm
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I would place the stripper about 20” in front of the reel. For the guides I would use KW10, KW5.5, KB5 (2 or 3), and KT5 (5 or 6). This would be the recommendation given by Fuji for a KR concept. If you want to spend more for the guides then you can use the RV6 for the stripper followed by either a KW5.5 or KB5.5. The RV6 only comes in a titanium frame, and is also recommended by Fuji as a stripp
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James, email me, I’ll be more than happy to give you some. Norm
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Mark - Those micro guides I gave you I think are 2 mm. I gave them to you when you were complaining about how small size 5 micro guides were, just to give you an appreciation on how small real micro guides are. Everyone is correct the smallest ring size in a ceramic tip top will be a size 4, I’ve never seen them any smaller. Maybe there might be some with size 3 ring, but I haven’t seen them. I
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Rod Geeks X-comp XC733. Designed for blackfish. Norm
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If he wants an upgrade, replace the LV guides with KR concept Guides. They are a performance enhancer in my opinion.. Norm
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I agree, the manufacturer should supply an unblemished blank at no additional cost to you. That’s just poor quality control and customer service. Send customer service your pictures, they should respond in a positive manner. Norm
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Madeira polyneon thread does not come in a NCP form. It is an embroidery thread that contains a silicone lubricant for use in sewing machines. Therefore, It should be coated with CP, otherwise it may cause problems with the epoxy finish. Because it comes in multitude of various colors and shades it is very popular for decorative wraps. Threads made specifically for rod wrapping do not have the va
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Here is what an Aetna Foulproof guide looks like. Norm
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Are they recoil guides, or are they the old Aetna foul-proof guides? They look similar but are different. The recoil guides are nickel titanium , and the foul-proof guides are Monel stainless. There is Still some demand for the old foul-proof guides. As far as old ceramic guides, they are not in much demand, except for restorations and replacements, as Tom mentioned. The modern guides are much be
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Yes those guides are not as durable as the Fuji K guides. Glad you are using them. Norm
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I have also noticed that after a rain while fishing the epoxy will get these hazy, whiteish water spots, but they disappear when dry. Some rods will do it but not all. I snagged a Rod once will fishing and noticed that all the wraps were hazy and whiteish. Threw it in the bottom of the boat, and the next day it was fine. I don’t think it is something terribly abnormal, it just happens, and it t
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The ferrules on CTS blanks are reinforced and don’t even need to be wrapped. If a guide happens fall on the ferrule there is no problem. Norm
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It appears that my curing times are faster then those mentioned previously. However, I live in the South so my shop temperature may be higher then those living further north. My shop is part of my boat house, and my average temperature is going to be in the mid 70s to low 80s, and can be even higher when I turn off the AC. I have no problems applying a second coat after 12 hrs, 24 hrs after the f
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I’ll take it back, Just inspected my bootle of CTS Crystal Coat Hardener under a very bright light and there is a very slight yellowish cast to it, which was not there when I first tried it. So I guess all hardeners will yellow with time ,some more than others. It is still the most colorless hardener I have ever used. Norm
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Granted I have only had the CTS Crystal Coat for six months, since it’s introduction, but the Hardener is still water clear, and my samples of the hardened epoxy are still colorless. I don’t know if it will yellow at some point, but so far it is the only epoxy I have ever used where the Hardener is colorless. With all other epoxy brands I have used the Hardener has a yellowish cast to it right fr
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Crystallization is not not a problem just heat the resin and the crystals will dissolve. The Hardener will have a yellow or amber cast to it from the start and it will get darker with time. Neither of these problems will prevent the epoxy from setting up. Norm
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