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4 days ago
Norman Miller
Fuji has always considered the KR reduction train to consist of 3 reduction guides, which are engineered to be grouped by size, plus one “belly or choke” guide. This belly/choke guide can be either a normal low profile KB guide or a high belly guide. So, the “3+1” reduction train described by Les is not an “odd ball modified reduction train” but rather one of the many reduction train combinations
Forum: rodboard 7 days ago
Norman Miller
Not really false if installing the reel seat in the down locking position, unless you ream the grip so it slides further down the blank to give you the room needed to wrap the tape arbors, or if you install the grip from the butt up. In my opinion, neither are the best nor easiest ways to go. If you are using the reel seats in the up locking position, which I never do, you can certainly use tape
Forum: rodboard 8 days ago
Norman Miller
Both the Fuji VSS and IPS seats require grips with a machined cutout into which the seat reel is inserted. Because of this cutout the use of a tape arbor is precluded. The VSS/IPS reel seats need to be arbored first and then reamed to fit the blank prior to installation.
Norm
Forum: rodboard 9 days ago
Norman Miller
Ed - You are quoting the steps I use to assemble a VSS/IPS seat and handle combination. It works very well and I’ve never had a failure, and have used them on a number of Point Blanks with no problems. If you wish you can glue the pieces separately to the blank, it also works. However, in my opinion you have fewer problems when gluing as a unit.
Norm
Forum: rodboard 17 days ago
Norman Miller
Herb gives good advice. If you are ever planning on using the reamer with a power drill, I would use an epoxy that can tolerate high frictional heat without breaking down. Many epoxies begin to break down at temperatures above 150 degrees F. I don’t know the heat resistance for the West System epoxy, but I have used JB Weld epoxy with good results for bonding the grit onto the reamer. It can with
Forum: rodboard 17 days ago
Norman Miller
I’m with Spencer, the raw blanks will wrap fine and really don’t need sanding. However, with that said, I have also sanded a number of them to remove the ridges. I wet sand by hand and do not use a rod lathe. Basically, I use 600 to1500 grit wet/dry sand paper (the black stuff) and wet sand. All you need is a bucket of water, the sand paper, and your hands. Wet the sand paper in a bucket of water
Forum: rodboard 20 days ago
Norman Miller
7. Re: line rub
It should be pretty simple for you to convert your rod to a spiral wrapped rod. Basically, the spacing for your guides can remain the same. Cut off all the guides, except for possibly the butt guide. Cut the thread on top of the guide foot with a razor blade or utility knife, and peel off and unwrap the thread. I prefer a utility knife because I feel it’s safer and gives me more control. Once the
Forum: rodboard 22 days ago
Norman Miller
According to Anglers Resource the New Guide Concept was introduced in 1995, and the KR Concept was introduced in 2011. Both are an improvement over the old traditional Cone of Flight guide layout, which has been around for a very long time and is still being widely used today. Traditions dies slowly.
I’ve mentioned previously that both the Fuji NGC and KR concepts are all about line control and
Forum: rodboard 27 days ago
Norman Miller
Don’t ever stop asking questions. Asking questions I how you learn.
Norm
Forum: rodboard 28 days ago
Norman Miller
They look like a high frame small ring design that could be used in a KR concept. Very nice,I’d certainly try them. How do you put the tip top on? Can hot melt tip top cement be use, or do you need to use something else?
Norm
Forum: rodboard 28 days ago
Norman Miller
St Croix used a powered tip top glue that contained Piccolastic hydrocarbon #D125. They use to supply a small quantity of this stuff to people needing to replace a tip top on a St Croix rod. As far as I know they did not sell it to the public.
Sportsmen’s Direct sells a product called HWI Tipsie Dust PyroCrystalline Epoxy. It’s not an epoxy, but rather a hot melt crystalline power, which appears
Forum: rodboard 29 days ago
Norman Miller
12. Re: Desert Tan
You can have a blank of your choice custom painted. Try Backbone Customs.
Norm
Forum: rodboard 30 days ago
Norman Miller
Which NFC CF grip did you get? The regular carbon fiber grip has an ID of about 9.5 mm. If that is too large for your blank then arbor by doing a wrap or two of dry wall tape cut to about 1” wide, at the front and rear of the grip. I tack the drywall tape in place with a drop or two super glue before applying epoxy to prevent the tape from ‘walking’ when sliding the grip into place. If you got th
Forum: rodboard 30 days ago
Norman Miller
The tiger (jasper/zebra) thread is thicker than size A regular thread.
Norm
Forum: rodboard 4 weeks ago
Norman Miller
The prowrap tiger thread is the same as a jasper or zebra thread. It’s basically two thread colors twisted together to form a single strand. There is no problems with its strength since it is made with the same fibers as used with a single color regular wrapping thread. It is used exactly the same way as regular thread. However, in order for the contrasting colors to stand out you should use colo
Forum: rodboard 4 weeks ago
Norman Miller
The both the 18 RPM and 9 RPM motor will work fine for curing. No need to move to your 9 RPM motor unless you are doing two rods.
Norm
Forum: rodboard 4 weeks ago
Norman Miller
The plastic container will have nothing to do with setup time. The flex coat rod builders epoxy has a pot life of about 20 min and that depends on the temperature. The higher the temperature the shorter the pot life. In addition, epoxy begins curing as soon as it’s mixed, the longer you take to do your work the thicker the epoxy becomes. So with this epoxy either work fast or mix up small batches
Forum: rodboard 4 weeks ago
Norman Miller
I assume you don’t have extra decals to experiment with. I tend not to use decals, so I have a bunch of them laying around from different manufacturers. Which manufacturer’s decal label are you using? If I have a decal from that manufacturer I’ll experiment for you using Permagloss and see what happens. As Micheal suggests Permagloss is your best bet. It is absolutely water clear and will never
Forum: rodboard 4 weeks ago
Norman Miller
I mock up the handle with the reel seat and reel in place and find the handle length that the individual likes. Once we find that length, I measure from the butt end of the blank to the front of the rear grip (or the rear of the reel seat). This is the measurement I use when I glue up the handle, because the reel is not in place when I glue up. Therefore, I rarely do measurements from the reel st
Forum: rodboard 5 weeks ago
Norman Miller
Try RodHouse France. Also Cork4US, they are in Portugal.
Norm
Forum: rodboard 5 weeks ago
Norman Miller
Search for caning supplies. A lot of places sell rattan.
Norm
Forum: rodboard 6 weeks ago
Norman Miller
I mostly use the flex coat hot melt tip-top cement. CRB also has a hot melt tip-top cement and so does Fuji. The Fuji tip-top cement comes in a red lipstick type of tube, it may be the stuff you got from Cabelas. These are all made for installing tip-tops and work fine. Have to be careful with the stuff you get in hobby stores, some melt at lower temperatures and are not suitable. Use the hot mel
Forum: rodboard 6 weeks ago
Norman Miller
Never thought about it, I just taped the guides on and wrapped them. Didn’t give it a second thought, and the guides are still there. You might be over thinking it. However, I do a locking wrap on all my single foot guides. I personally don’t think anything bad is going to happen whether you use a locking wrap or not.
Norm
Forum: rodboard 6 weeks ago
Norman Miller
I have several of the original unsanded NFC X-ray rods that I’ve used over the past few years since they first became available, and they have shown no real signs of wear. However, I treat my rod pretty well.
Norm
Forum: rodboard 6 weeks ago
Norman Miller
By using an arbor you will do a better job at installing an ESCM reel seat than Kistler does. If I remember correctly Kistler uses a hidden thread hood to hide the end of the reel seat. In my opinion, by not using an arbor Kistler saves both time and money in making a rod.
Norm
Forum: rodboard 6 weeks ago
Norman Miller
The Fuji ACSM exposed blank reel does not require an arbor. It is sized to fit the blank though out its length. It has internal ribs that make firm contact with the blank. If needed it can be easily reamed. I think Hydra also makes an internally ribbed exposed blank reel seat. Also two piece casting reel seats are exposed blank reel seats. I used to use a lot of the PacBay Minima casting reel sea
Forum: rodboard 6 weeks ago
Norman Miller
I arbor the barrel end of the ECSM reel seat with a 1” piece of polyurethane foam arbor and then ream it to fit the blank. It works for me and I think the foam arbor is lighter than the gob of epoxy needed to fill the gap. Never had a failure doing it this way.
Norm
Forum: rodboard 7 weeks ago
Norman Miller
29. Re: Paint Pens
Yep, you are correct. Did a search and found that It can be thinned with either water or alcohol. I learned something today, and I’ve been using it for a longtime.
Norm
Forum: rodboard |