I just whipped through the thread, and presume you are doing a fly rod, downlock installation, with the cap at the very end of the rod, trout style, with the reel seat threads closest to the grip. Downlock reel seats need special bonding care, or the act of installing the reel, will jack the cap right off the reel seat. Not a nice deal. The other negative aspect to a downlock reelseat: if the ro
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Interested in burgundy "VARMAC" seats? Rick's Rods in CO (web site available) used to have same.Prolly still does.
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Question: When a builders opts for Elmer's, Lepages, Titebond or any other one part type glue requiring pressure to bond, what happens to the blob of glue under the ring that might be 1/8" too loose around the blank*. I wager it never sets, just remains gooey forever. With any of the thinner epoxies, it flows into the void, and cures. * 1/8 on the diameter not the radius. So the ring is
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What Mr. Kirkman said. On a 12 guide flyrod, I'll use 3-4 CC's of resin. On an abused 5 guide one piece boat rod, I will use 10-15 CC's of resin. Really goop'er on, to save the threads getting bared against the gunwales, etc, causing premature failure from salt water invasion.
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The dots come away with a quick fingernail scrape. I'm doing a gear rod blank from Sage, and I'm opting to put the dots down, rather than up. Down permits the factory silkscreen info to be on the right hand side of the blank, visible, instead of invisible, underneath the blank, if the dots were up. (Pin rod, reel underslung).
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I have successfully repaired cracked female ferrules for over 25 years by: a slightly different application of crazy glue as per above. I remove the hoop wrap on the ferrule. Then I apply a coat of paraffin wax to the male section. Next I place the male section a bit past the normal mating point..... g e n t l y . This makes the crack open up so as to be seen quite easily. Crazy glue is flooded i
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I also use the thermoplastic "Bostick" gun and either plain off-white, or the really strong amber sticks the company makes. I don't use glass to drag out beads. I have a plastic bus-pan filled with cold water, and just shoot the glue into the water. I either coil as is, or slooooowly stretch some of the strands to about 2 feet long, for the thinner diameter tips. If you bring the glue b
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A down and dirty way to convert decimals to fractions..The usual one to begin, is 16th's. : Ergo above: take 452 and multiply by 16, and you get 7.2 16's Close enough to 7/16's for what you want. If you went 32nd's, it would be 452 x 32 = 14 and a 1/2 - 32nds. And so on.
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What Mr. Kirkman said. I have been doing exactly that since the 80's. There are several types of thermoplastic cement. The Bostich company makes different types, with different holding powers. I prefer the amber sticks... they hold a lot tighter than the clear sticks. I also use their "hot melt" glue gun.
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Quick question: how wide is the beam? Thanks. KD.
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I apply rings direct to the blank, clamping when complete. I use half hour epoxy resin, mixed and stirred in a 20 CC syringe, X amount each A/B, depending on how many rings. The more grip, the more resin. Slide ring into position, use syringe to pinpoint application of resin, slide next down and repeat till done. This is a one-face method. No brush to dip, or overage to wipe up, as the syri
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I hate the stuff. In the beginning, (for me the early 70's) the only kind out there was a lacquer type...is the term aromatic solvents? That crap left blotches, bald spots, and all sorts of grief. That's because it dried unevenly. Especially the big blob under the guide's foot. Enter modern times, with WATER as the carrier !!! Now we are getting somewhere.... as water takes forever to dry, the
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Take a lino knive and carve off the cork. Don't hit the blank. You will be amazed at the lack of bonding the factory did.
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I have access to the shrooms as well.... Hoping to locate the aluminum types.
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Hio, Folks.... These things went away from the market way back when. I used my last one, and was hoping some old-time builder might still have a couple in the drawer. Picture? Nope, none to take a pic of. For the benefit of the latest and greatest crop of rod putter-togetherers: A bogus 'butt box'* is an anodized piece of aluminum, open on both ends, and ~swaged~ one end to take, trap, and ho
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Hi. As per Mr. Kirkman's advisory, there's a minimum and a maximum. The minimum once was about 3 times the diameter of the blank, or about the half-inch. Cosmetics can play a part as wel, along with the placement of the last guide on the tip section. If you are doing a pin rod, you might want to adjust total spacing, so the last of the tip guides, and the first of the butt guides are in
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Hi, Welcome to the rod-building fraternity. Best to decide now, how you are going to wrap: inwards, or outwards. Outwards to mean the thread is coming in ~underneath~ the blank, thumbs going upwards as you wrap. Inwards to mean the thread is coming in from ~on top~ of the blank, with the thumbs going downwards as you wrap. Or if you prefer: from your right hand: CW, or CCW.
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My .02: Whichever way you go with a reamer, try running the grit/steel in reverse ! If you have the power in forward, the reamer may just have the tendency to advance forward, at such a rate, that it totally jams in the project, becoming really stuck. This will happen if you are reaming too much dunnage at one time. Not nice. I attempted to ream about 1/8" (1/16 inch each side of radius
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Sam-taylor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Is there any epoxy that I can get from a normal > hardware store that is cheaper then flex coat? And > how much epoxy will I need to coat the eyes and > Reel seat on an eight for cobia spinning rod? A 10-6 casting rod with 11 guides, and the tip, uses about 12-20 CC of resin, varied by waste, and lengt
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Thanks for the leads, Folks...Much appreciated. Colour is not a problem. It's the time spent removing resin, on some of the lower end Asian rods, for one or two guides, where the ceramics have popped out. These are the 79.99-129.99 sticks sold anywhere. These offshore-made rods usually use a low-cost resin, which is very hard, and comes off in shards, leaving humps and bumps where it ate int
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Hi, Folks... who sells E, and EE thread? I seem to see sellers stop at D. Thanks. kd.
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Greg Cudnik Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > It's a shrink wrap that is similar to the popular > x-shrink aka x-flock. The jap shrink doesn't have > the x pattern, all of it I've used is slightly > thinner than most x-shrink. The jap shrink is my > go to when the x pattern is not wanted and when > quick grip is too heavy or thick for the
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Hi. What you might want to consider: more wraps on the fatter butt section, reducing as you approach the tip. If this is in the various linked tutorials, kewl. If not, it's a nice cosmetic touch. 6 wraps on the fat butt looks as wide as 4 wraps or less near the very tip. 6 wraps up top looks much wider up there than the 6 wraps down at the butt. Cheers, KD.
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Hi. Are those the black ones branded 'alnwick'? And as above wt and length, thanks.,
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Here's a bit of an example: at your fave search engine, type this phrase: youtube fishing with rod vedder spring steelhead. Where Rodney's fishing a BC lower mainland river, the Vedder, with the float, and a center pin reel. His fish is at about 9:20 I think. His spot does not demand a long cast as you will see. Float fishing wants short to medium casts, anyway, unless one is fishing the rod
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Sucker fishing, my 6. It's becoming more and more apparent that the mass audience here is not familiar with Western float fishing, in WA, OR, or BC. A quick way to put it, would be: the line is the hypotenuse of the right triangle formed by the rod, the water and the line. That's why center-pin/drift rods are around 10-6 to 11 feet. Some folks fish 12 footers. The plan is to make the hypotenu
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Hello. I live in Smithers, BC, about 200 meters from the Bulkley River...one of the main tribs of the Skeena River.
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Hi, Roger, the long grip thing works up to a physical limit...anything past a trigger pull (15-16") gets hard to fish. A fellow can only tuck so much rear grip under his arm, and expect a smooth transition on the pull-out, to battle stations, reel in a fish. Harder yet in the rain with raingear pulling at the rod on the way by. Several years ago, before all this balancing thing became
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Pro Coat? A google search for pro coat epoxy fishing rods comes up empty, on the first page. Did not check past page one. I'm _not_ being anal, but when folks type a product, that I have never heard of, I like to go search for it, so I can learn. and when I can't find it, well, there goes those life force moments.
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Well there it is, then...one place I didn't ckeck. Thanks, Joe. I'll give them a call. cheers, kd.
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