Sometimes, the life-force expended to save the project is lop-sided.....2-3 hours work and frustration to capture a 9.99 reel seat does not compute. If it's a graphite type seat, not a fancy wood jobbie, you may want to get the dremel out, and cut it on the longitudinal axis, 180° opposite. This hot water thing is hit and miss....if memory serves, rods are cured up at about 150°, and may get
Forum: rodboard

Well. Nice to see I'm not alone. You folks remind me of me. I once did a skeleton reel seat, and once assembled, realized I'd put the hood, aforementioned above, on BACKWARDS !!!!! yea, team. On the questionaire of life, I really did tick yes, to 'are you stupid', on THAT one !!!!
Forum: rodboard

Hi, David....I'm going to run this past you, and see if it's what you mean. You bonded the grips. You did the clamp, and the resin formed a hump between the two pieces. You went a-sanding, and discovered that the resin bump was not going away, leaving you with a wide line of resin about 3/32" at the glue joint? Further sanding begins to leave you with a valley each side of the resin hump?
Forum: rodboard

Great, guys, thanks. I see it all now !!!! I will scope out the drill press option first, then check the rod holder thing. When folks use the word dremel, it tends to describe any rotary tool, much like all circular electric portable saws referred to as "skil-saws". I do not have brand Dremel... My rotary tools are Skil, Weller, and Job-master. Each is dedicated. One has a flex shaft
Forum: rodboard

Oh...OK, I think I see 1/2 of what's going on...RE using the rod holder for deflection test....but where the dremel fits in, still unceretain. Are we talking about another device to hold/clamp the dremel in a manner that mimics a bench type biiig grinder? I just do it freehand....dremel in one hand, the guide in the other...the dremel is held vertically, and the guide foot is shaped on the fla
Forum: rodboard

Rich... you have your email hidden. Perhaps you can try a google search which see: : Try the first line on page two.
Forum: rodboard

1 dram is about 3.7 cc's....3.696716 cc's............or 1/4 USA ounce fluid. Hope that helps.
Forum: rodboard

Yah, it would be nice to eyeball that piece of kit....on dremel... I use one of the stones mounted on the arbor, at very low speed, usually 2 or 3. The buzz-phrase for this accesory is mounted wheel. I use the green stone. If you do get a patty in the way, it just buffs some, instead of opening the hide up.
Forum: rodboard

**cyber-ears going 'perk'**...........Shawn, can you expound on your statement that Gudebrod's leaving the rod building thread niche? Or do you mean it's falling out of favour with builders, who are switching to another brand, reducing Gude's market share, so they are pulling the pin???
Forum: rodboard

Hi, Herb......Doing a casting rod is pretty much the same theory: butt box, rear grip, seat, and foregrip. I have developed a procedure that lays everything up in one day, and takes overnight to cure. This is a lot like your case, I'd suspect. I do the butt box last, as I use the tail end of the exposed blank to chuck in the lathe. I use 5 min resin to glue the last ring in place, and use plasti
Forum: rodboard

Contact Andy for details. (Tom...I did not mean to break the rules, I was so excited we could get TM, I shot, fired then aimed....)
Forum: rodboard

Hi, Dave, no. It should actually improve interchangeability. Pin feet somehow always tend to be on the long skinny side, in relation to either fly or casting reels.
Forum: rodboard

I try and mix what's needed. Sometimes I'm off by a CC or 2, not in the mix, but in volume for the work. I may estimate 8 CC's to do the rod, and it takes only 6. I eyeball small amounts by drawing A/B lines with the york capped bottles, and for larger amounts, either puddle size, or a syringe. I have successfully frozen unused portions of mixed wrap resin, for a fast repair job down the sho
Forum: rodboard

You can always go the other way: shorten, and re-grind the profile of the reel foot to fit. Very few pin reels have the foot built right to the frame.... most are either rivetted or screwed down. Check it out, and grind on, as you can change out the foot later, for re-sale/collector value. Remove your orig. foot, and grind the replacment, if collection's on the horizon. Another option can be t
Forum: rodboard

I use masking tape as well, and this method will work for double foot guides, on the skinny part of the blank. Use 1/4 inch tape, the long way, not the short way. (Down the top axis of the blank, not wrapped around the circumference) The first guide on a fly rod is usually about 4-5" from the tip, and the diameter there is approaching 1/4, maybe less. A one inch strip of tape is applied to t
Forum: rodboard

Sidebar: what about using a straight dye powder? Rit, Veniard, Orco? I've not tried it, but maybe someone has ??
Forum: rodboard

Acknowleged, and thanks, gents. I can change to resin easily enough, and after a little more thought, it's going to be safer to do that, in case the release agent won't release, with the CA bonding medium. The resin would take some time to polymerize..good safety valve.
Forum: rodboard

I may be doing it all wrong. (What's new ? ~>>grin<<~) Anyway, over the years I've had a couple of split tip sections' ferrules. Be they sleeve over, or spigot, glass or carbon. Here's what I have been doing: -removing the thread wrap to see all about the split, to see if a repair attempt will work out. -putting a release agent on the butt section. -forcing the tip section ove
Forum: rodboard

I'll add an endorsement to RB too...with support to Mr. Kirkman's post RE: "cost per serving" .....it takes 3.5 hours of pay at our provincial "first-job-entry-level" minimum wage to buy a 4 ounce kit of RB.....2 ounces each part. Based on "servings" of .75-1 CC, that's well over 100 servings per kit. Some jobs will take 2-3CC's, others will take much less. Well d
Forum: rodboard

I located an image search of a Russian web site with progressive pics....until I learn more about the search function in the gallery here, this was pretty quick. and yielded a result, unlike my spasctic attempt on site here. There's lots of stuff here, and I can't seem to quite get how search works
Forum: rodboard

One detail overlooked in the original describe: tubular,or solid glass? With a 3/16" tip, it's not a heavy-duty trolling rod. Unless you are going to run a mooching reel, or some other direct drive style, the reel's drag pack will take care of the breakage thing. Pound test line is specie-related too. If you are running many dollars worth of terminal tackle, or bottom fishing, I'd up the
Forum: rodboard

Hi there. Sounds like your resin is Envirotex, either as a generic house (private) brand, or straight up branded envirotex. That was the resin of choice for many a rod builder until the 'dedicated' products began to show up on the market. And, just like all resins, there is a point on the polymerization curve, where it just 'goes off'. I enjoyed using this resin for a long time, but struggled w
Forum: rodboard

I'm a dinosaur, and *very* low tech. Like anything else, if a set of procedures produces the desired result, in a timely manner, then it's all good. I shape the inletted ring, blending it into the grip, or making it part of the blank ring grip. Step one: using a plain rat-tail file, the ring is reamed to a diameter 1/16" less than the round diameter *behind* the hump for the seat. ***
Forum: rodboard

At, and after 300 USD, it's personal choice, and situation driven. Take a peek here, and remember to bring along your wallet !!!!
Forum: rodboard

Addition to James' factual post: if the single wrap is on a **repair**, it may not be ecomical to remove each and every last molecule of older resin. It does not compute to spend inordinate amounts of life-force in return for the (usually) small fee a repair nets....compared to a pristine new wrap on a new blank.. There may be slight humps, or imperfections remaining. Then, the thicker threa
Forum: rodboard

Dang I wish I could take photos....anyway, I'll try the describe. I use a router with the base removed, "U-bolted" to a 1/2" size drill stand, making, in effect, a super high speed drill press. I had the local machine shop clip the wings of several 45° chamfer bits. They started off at about an inch across. I had them make me 5/16, 3/8, 7/16, and on up to 13/16. All these bi
Forum: rodboard

Oop, regrets if the thread takes a sideways turn, but I didn't do it. On thread: with the darker shades, on a darker blank, with no CP, with regular thread, letter designate is moot......I regularly use EE on repairs, because it's fast, being thick, and thick to conform to irregularities on the blank, from fast resin removal on the factory job...with **no gaps**... Our resins just blend it al
Forum: rodboard

may answer your queries. Especially FAQ # 11.
Forum: rodboard

What Scott said....it's a matter of pride, showing the maker's skill to ream the last ring tight enough to stand proud. Best accomplished when using rings instead of a pre-formed grip. If I ever use a preformed grip, I just cut one ring off, do the ream, and add a single ring for a super snug fit, re-attaining the original measurement of the grip.
Forum: rodboard

What everybody's saying....for rod lathe use, at the rpms it turns, I suspect the ball bearings in the roller wheels will last a lifetime.
Forum: rodboard