Hi all! I read a prior post about about having a machine shop make reamers that will chuck into a drill. Has anyone done this? I build larger saltwater rods and the grips come with a 1/4 inch id hole. It takes a long time to move all the cork out to a id of 3/4 to 15/16 of an inch. Nobody got time for that! Does anyone know of tapered reamers that are available commercially? My local machine shop won't make reamers they say.

Dream Reamer...don't know how I lived without one.

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Super Tight Lines......Don

Yeah I use those now and their ok... I am looking for an all metal type that you don't have to re-glue that sand paper tape which is a pain.

Mike,
Use a round file to ream each end to the size of the blank.
Then, take an aircraft drill to drill out the rest of the cork in the grip.

Quick and easy.

Be safe

How do the Dream Reamers compare to the Extreme Reamer from Mudhole? I have had 2 of them come apart on me I use them on my Lathe at about 500 RPM's

Neither of those reamers are mean't to be used at that fast of RPM!

G'day Mike

I share your pain with having to remove so much material.But since i started to make my own grips from cork rings,burl and birch i have drilled a 10mm
hole and used a 10mm arbour life has been so much better.I have found using the reamer in the smaller dia that it has a chance to wander.But with the
larger dia the reamer is already half way down the inside of the grip.Maybe looking at making your own grips could be the answer so you can customize
them to suit yourself.

cheers....Ray

I first cut the grip ID closer to the blank diameter with my Flexcoat pilot drill bits and than ream. I think it stays centered better and you get where you need to be much faster.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/21/2013 12:23AM by Spencer Phipps.

machine shop supply places should have tapered reamers. MSC, McMaster Carr,etc. I don't know how they work on cork but should be able to hog it out and get you close to use the dream reamer.Go slow.

Yeah I called MSC and described what I wanted and they have them. For one from .862 to1 would be 360.40! Oh and at that degree of taper I would need like 6 of them to get from 1/4 to 1 inch. Hmm maybe there is something else

How about this?

[www.mudhole.com]

Bore out to approximate ID, and a final ream to fit.

Joe

Mike, you can buy EVA in different bore diameters from 1/4" to 3/4". That is what I do. Between that, and how much it stretchs, I rarely have to ream EVA grips.

The best power reamer I saw was owned by a local builder. It looked to be a tapered steel mandrel wrapped with a 60 grit strip scrounged from a bench type belt sander. I would think you could buy a 1" steel shaft (for fan drive packages) cheap and taper it on a metal lathe at a reasonable price. Then glue your sandpaper strips on it. A wood lathe with a drill chuck would do.

You don't need, or want, real high RPM's. Move the EVA up and down a lot to get rid of the dust and don't push it so hard that the EVA gets warm/gummy. Even with the right stuff it is a slow messy task so I would always buy in a bore to match the blank.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Thats my quest also,to find a rasp, conical in shape, 18 to 24" long with a final diameter of 1".

Dennis J. Danku
(Sayreville,NJ)

Hey all. Thanks for the input. I am not really concerned with eva. As stated above I buy it close to the OD of the blank and push it down. Cork is the problem.

My .02: Whichever way you go with a reamer, try running the grit/steel in reverse ! If you have the power in forward, the reamer may just have the tendency to advance forward, at such a rate, that it totally jams in the project, becoming really stuck.

This will happen if you are reaming too much dunnage at one time. Not nice. I attempted to ream about 1/8" (1/16 inch each side of radius) and soon learned that was not a good thing.

Thanks again. Yeah may dream reamers get stuck a lot I will try running them in reverse.
I looked up the reverse flex coat drill bits. I think this will work. If not i looked at some large auger bits for woodworking which may work also. This still doesn't address the taper but might be better then what I'm currently doing.

Very much agree with Spencer. Get very close with your initial pilot of the grip!!!!